PHASE III

Good insulation stops the flow of heat into and out of the homes. This makes your home more energy efficient all year round. Insulation acts to keep both heat and air conditioning in the house, meaning your HVAC system will not have to work as hard and your energy bills will be lower. Insulation on exterior walls puts a blanket-like barrier between your living area and extreme outdoor temperatures. Insulating your walls can prevent this by limiting air movement, enabling you to save up to 40 percent in heating and cooling bills. Drywall is panels of pressed gypsum plaster between heavy paper. Drywall is also known as plasterboard, wallboard and gypsum board. Some people call it “Sheetrock,” but Sheetrock is a registered trademark of a company that produces drywall. Drywall comes in three basic thicknesses: When hanging drywall, the ultimate goal is to create the fewest number of seams possible. This means working with the largest drywall panels and pieces you can handle safely.

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Created on April 17, 2022 By amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Insulation Certification

Insulation Technicians may hone their skills in a wide range of techniques, all technicians are Am-Cat certified.

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Q.  What is the best way to insulate a crawl space?

A. Crawl space insulation, as a part of overall home air sealing and insulation, helps maintain your entire home's energy efficiency. Without insulation, heat and cool air are easily lost through the floor. Insulation also helps to preserve the air quality and reduce energy costs.

B. Foam based insulation as the best insulation for crawl spaces because it creates an air barrier. This means spray foam is the best floor insulation, so you won't need to wear extra pairs of socks.

C. Install the insulation with the paper vapor barrier facing up toward the heated living space, and make sure the insulation fits tightly between the joists. Hold the insulation in place from below using insulation support wires, or by stapling chicken wire to the bottom of the joists.

D. Crawl spaces should have their floors uninsulated, ground fog and air sealed, walls insulated and air-conditioned with indoor air. You may find no insulation at all if your home is built before 1990. The U.S. Dept. of Energy currently suggests insulation with an R-value of at least R-9 in floors.

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Q.  Is it worth it to insulate roof?

A. Give or take, about 25% of the heat produced by your boiler will escape through the roof of your home. About 35% of the heat will escape through the walls and through gaps, in and around windows and doors, and about 10% of heat will disappear through the floor.

B. Installing attic insulation this winter is a worthwhile long-term investment because it can significantly decrease your heating bills. As an added benefit, when the hot D.C. temperatures come back, the attic insulation will also minimize your air conditioning bills.

C. Rolls of foam insulation are cheap, says Brennand, and three rolls of 8in deep foam should be enough to give most lofts an important layer of protection. Mineral wool (such as Rockwool or Rocksil), glass fibre and recycled paper products all work well, according to the NEF.

D. An uninsulated flat roof has a U-Value of around 1.5 W/m2K. When insulating one, you're aiming for a value of 0.25 W/m2K or less. To achieve this, you should insulate your flat roof with insulation boards totalling around 150mm thickness.

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Q.  What is the best way to insulate under a wooden floor?

A. The majority of heat loss occurs through the roof. However, some 10 to 20 percent of heat loss is due to your floor. We do not take it into account the draughts coming up through the floor. So, if you are wondering is it worth insulating under floorboards.

B. Fibrous insulation such as mineral wool or sheep's wool performs best between timber because it will take up thermal movement and cut down air movement around the insulation. 'Thermal bypass' affects performance, so cutting out draughts is preferable.

C. A layer of dense foam padding under the laminate can help warm up the floor. In slab situations, raising the subfloor off the concrete with a layer of plywood over sleeper strips before installing the surface flooring can also make it warmer on the feet.

D. You only need to insulate the ground floor. If you're on an upper floor, you don't usually need to insulate your floor space. However, you should consider insulating any floors that are above unheated spaces such as garages, as you could be losing a lot of heat through those.

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Q.  How do you insulate a finished floor?

A. Use Weather Strips, weather strips are an inexpensive way to seal doors and windows in your home, install New Door Sweeps, apply Foam Tape, insulate with Window Film, hang Insulated Curtains, re-Caulk Windows and Doors, use a door snake.

B. Repair, replace or add new weatherstripping, get a window draft stopper, Cover cracks with nail polish, Wrap the windows with film, reglaze the windowpanes, use interior storm windows or inserts.

C. When installing insulation on top of the concrete floor, the most common method of installation is as follows. Lay the damp proof membrane onto the concrete, followed by the insulation. Then lay moisture-resistant chipboard, or a concrete screed to the top, which can then be covered by the flooring to finish.

D. Cover Floor with Vapor Barrier. Cover the entire floor with a vapor barrier, such as 6 mm polyethylene sheeting, measure and Create Furring Strips, measure 16 inches from the face of one wall, cut the Insulation, cut rigid foam insulation to fit snugly between each sleeper, cover the Insulation.

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Q.  How do you insulate windows with insulation?

A. Use window insulation films, window film creates an insulating barrier between the interior of your apartment and your windows.

B. Cover your windows with bubble wrap.

C. Install removable magnetic window insulation.

D. Use rope caulk to seal cracks.

E. Add thermal curtains to your windows.

F. All The Above.

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Q.  What insulation do you put around windows?

A. The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include cellulose, fiberglass, and mineral (rock or slag) wool. All of these materials are produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose is primarily made from recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass products contain 40% to 60% recycled glass.

B. Thermograms of mechanical systems can detect the heat created by excessive friction. Energy assessors use thermography as a tool to help detect heat losses and air leakage in building envelopes. Infrared scanning allows energy assessors to check the effectiveness of insulation in a building's construction.

C. The interior ceilings, walls and floors in your home should feel warm and dry. When drywall and paneling inside a home feels damp or cold, there is not enough insulation. Alternatively, when touching an exterior wall, it should feel cold because insulation is keeping warm air inside a home.

D. Unless damaged, insulation can last 80 to 100 years in most houses before it needs to be replaced. However, insulation can start falling from fiberglass batts after 15 to 20 years, so if your insulation was installed in batts well over a decade ago, it might be time for an inspection or a home energy audit.

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Q.  How do I know if my house is not insulated?

A. 14-15° - If your home is this cold, you may be diminishing your resistance to respiratory diseases. 18° is the recommended nighttime bedroom temperature. 19-21° is the recommended daytime temperature range for occupied rooms.

B. Thermograms of mechanical systems can detect the heat created by excessive friction. Energy assessors use thermography as a tool to help detect heat losses and air leakage in building envelopes. Infrared scanning allows energy assessors to check the effectiveness of insulation in a building's construction.

C. The interior ceilings, walls and floors in your home should feel warm and dry. When drywall and paneling inside a home feels damp or cold, there is not enough insulation. Alternatively, when touching an exterior wall, it should feel cold because insulation is keeping warm air inside a home.

D. Unless damaged, insulation can last 80 to 100 years in most houses before it needs to be replaced. However, insulation can start falling from fiberglass batts after 15 to 20 years, so if your insulation was installed in batts well over a decade ago, it might be time for an inspection or a home energy audit.

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Q.  What happens if you don't have insulation?

A. Insulation helps regulate the temperature in your home. When you don't have sufficient insulation, there's nothing to keep your heated or cooled air inside where it belongs. As a result, you and your family are always uncomfortable, either too cold in the winter or too hot in the summer.

B. It's essential to have insulation on the interior walls of your home to have effective temperature regulation. A lack of insulation can lead to extreme temperatures during the hot and cold months of the year and issues with moisture, plumbing, and electrical appliances.

C. The idea of insulation is based on energy efficiency. A home without insulation will suffer from poor thermal performance, thereby increasing utility bills and placing a strain on HVAC systems, household budgets, and the environment.

D. The roof and windows are the hottest, showing that most heat is lost from the house through those parts. Heat energy is transferred from homes by conduction through the walls, floor, roof and windows. It is also transferred from homes by convection.

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Q.  What are three reasons to insulate?

A. Shoreline structures are built to alter the effects of ocean waves, currents and sand movement.They are usually built to "protect" buildings that were built on a beach that is losing sand. Sometimes they are built to redirect rivers and streams. Other times they are constructed to shelter boats in calm water.

B. Three primary functions to a room Air Conditioner. First is to cool a specific area, such as a room, not an entire home. The second is to dehumidify, to remove moisture out of the air, so you're not sitting in a cold, clammy environment. The third function is to filter the air within the home.

C. Save energy. With home heating costs increasing over 40% during the last twelve years, one of the best ways to stay ahead of the curve when it comes to rising energy costs is to insulate your home, improve comfort, prevent ice dams.

D. Enhanced speed, lack of interference, increased security, and the ability to connect systems across long distances.

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Q.  Why is insulation necessary?

A A home without insulation will suffer from poor thermal performance, thereby increasing utility bills and placing a strain on HVAC systems, household budgets, and the environment.

B. rafts and pockets of colder air near the floor; The walls are colder and don't emit the usual amount of infrared radiation, so you lose heat due to your body emitting more IR than it receives; You may spend more time indoors and hence have less physical activity, so your body generates less heat.

C. Insulation will help you keep the desired temperature in your house all year round, protecting it against cold in winter and excess heat in summer. Insulation is also useful to reduce noise pollution. A well-insulated house is very energy efficient and will need very little additional heating and cooling.

D. The roof and windows are the hottest, showing that most heat is lost from the house through those parts. Heat energy is transferred from homes by conduction through the walls, floor, roof and windows. It is also transferred from homes by convection.

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Bare drywall, where the taped and mudded seams and fastener holes are still exposed, requires priming before painting. Drywall soaks up more than its share of paint. If you do not prepare the surface, you may find yourself applying too many coats of paint before the mudded seams stop showing through. If you prime the surfaces first, though, likely you can complete the project with fewer coats of paint—especially if you are shrewd enough to tint the primer coat. Priming drywall is fast, inexpensive, and effective. Along with dedicated drywall primer, there are several other easy ways to prepare drywall before painting: flat latex paint, hiding paints, and skim-coating with drywall compound.

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Created on April 18, 2022 By amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Drywall Installer Certification

Drywall installers and Mud and Tapers and sanders trades may hone their skills in a wide range of techniques, all Installers are Am-Cat certified.

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Q.  Do you need to seal joint compound?

A. It makes a good base for paint or wallpaper but must be properly sealed because the paper covering, and the tape and joint compound used to seal seams have different porosity. Not sealing drywall with primer paint will result in splotches and irregularities in the finish paint.

B. The first coat of joint compound usually dries to create a slight depression and you need to reapply it to fill the imperfections completely. After the wall is smooth and the joint compound is dry, it is important to prepare the wall before painting over the joint compound.

C. Joint compound is used by pros to fill in holes and patch cracks before painting walls. A patch of paint will flash if you paint directly over it, because the compound will suck moisture out of it, giving it a flat, dull appearance.

D. Pipe joint compound, also known as pipe dope, is a type of sealant used with any threaded pipe to help create a seal. Consisting of a mixture of substances, including kaolin clay, vegetable oil, rosin, and ethanol, pipe joint compound serves as both a lubricant and a sealant for threaded joints.

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Q.  Can I paint directly on joint compound?

A. A majority of spackling compounds are water-resistant, making them ideal for both brick repair indoors and outdoors. It is important to clean and dry the brick surface before spackling it so that the compound can adhere properly.

B. You may see acceptable results by using self-priming wall paint. Joint compound should generally be allowed to dry for 24 hours between coats and before sanding, painting or priming. High humidity levels and warm temperatures both increase drying times, however.

C. You need a high-solids primer to prevent bleed-through and uneven coloring. You should also prime drywall before hanging wallpaper on it. The primer seals the paper and joint compound so that the wallpaper glue doesn't soak in and dry out. A primer is also useful when you're repainting a wall that has a gloss coat.

D. Joint compound is used by pros to fill in holes and patch cracks before painting walls. A patch of paint will flash if you paint directly over it, because the compound will suck moisture out of it, giving it a flat, dull appearance.

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Q,  What happens if you don't prime drywall?

A. At the far end, drywall mud, also known as joint compound, needs to dry for 24 hours between each coat and before sanding, priming, and painting. The 24-hour drying time recommendation can be applied to nearly all factors.

B. Because it has a glue-like base, drywall primer helps the paint adhere properly. If you skip priming, you’ll risk peeling paint, especially in humid conditions. Moreover, the lack of adhesion could make cleaning more difficult months after the paint has dried.

C. When it's dry, the mud will appear white and will be hard when you touch it. Scrape the edge of your knife over the area lightly to take down any ridges. Now, apply another layer of mud going out a few inches further than the first coat. This is called feathering and it will help hide the patch.

D. You need a high-solids primer to prevent bleed-through and uneven coloring. You should also prime drywall before hanging wallpaper on it. The primer seals the paper and joint compound so that the wallpaper glue doesn't soak in and dry out. A primer is also useful when you're repainting a wall that has a gloss coat.

E. B & D.

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Q.  How many coats of drywall mud do I need?

A. Pipe joint compound, also known as pipe dope, is a type of sealant used with any threaded pipe to help create a seal. Consisting of a mixture of substances, including kaolin clay, vegetable oil, rosin, and ethanol, pipe joint compound serves as both a lubricant and a sealant for threaded joints.

B. If your wall has distinct crevices, cracks, or textured areas, or if your brand of drywall mud isn't offering enough coverage, you may have to do a couple of additional coats of compound. However, in general, you'll need one coat to fill in the seams and three more coats after taping.

C. You need a high-solids primer to prevent bleed-through and uneven coloring. You should also prime drywall before hanging wallpaper on it. The primer seals the paper and joint compound so that the wallpaper glue doesn't soak in and dry out. A primer is also useful when you're repainting a wall that has a gloss coat.

D. Joint compound is used by pros to fill in holes and patch cracks before painting walls. A patch of paint will flash if you paint directly over it, because the compound will suck moisture out of it, giving it a flat, dull appearance.

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Q.  Can you prime over damp drywall mud?

A. No, Joint compound should generally be allowed to dry for 24 hours between coats and before sanding, painting or priming. High humidity levels and warm temperatures both increase drying times, however.

B. Yes, all you have to do is skim coat over the areas. You may have to do more than one coat and sand in between and on the last coat once it is dry. If you do skim coat it and sand it, make sure you prime it first before painting. Skim coat will soak up the primer like new drywall.

C. If your wall has distinct crevices, cracks, or textured areas, or if your brand of drywall mud isn't offering enough coverage, you may have to do a couple of additional coats of compound. However, in general, you'll need one coat to fill in the seams and three more coats after taping.

D. There are workarounds to avoid taping and mudding your drywall, such as using molding, chair rails, or quarter round to cover seams in your drywall. However, these methods are typically more time-consuming and expensive than using tape and mud to finish your walls.

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Q.  Do you have to mud drywall before priming?

A. Scour the paint with a fine, 280-grit sandpaper, before you apply the drywall mud. Once the paint feels slightly rough to the touch, it will accept the fresh drywall mud.

B. Before applying your primer, take a black cloth and go over the surface to make sure no dust is left behind. A: No, after you are done hanging your drywall, you need to make sure that you mud and primer it before applying any coat of paint.

C. Drywall mud covers the seams where pieces of drywall meet. This protects your wiring and the structural supports in your wall from debris and moisture. Sealing your drywall also inhibits pest insects and rodents from invading your walls.

D. Drywall mud will stick to primer. So, if you have a slick wall surface, like satin or semi-gloss, you can use a coat of primer over top of it to create a surface for the joint compound to stick to. You can even skim coat over primer.

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Q.  How thick should drywall be for walls?

A. Drywall should definitely not touch concrete as moisture will wick (ie flow up the surface as in a candle/lamp wick) into the drywall and encourage mold growth. 3/8" should be sufficient - your prop up plan is not only appropriate, but a common technique used by drywallers.

B. Drywall is a flat panel made of gypsum plaster sandwiched in between two sheets of thick paper. It adheres to metal or wood studs using nails or screws. Sheetrock is a specific brand of drywall sheet. These terms are often used interchangeably.

C. The most common thickness of drywall used in residential interior construction is 1/2 inch. This material is recommended for walls with studs placed 16 inches on center. If the wall studs are placed 24 inches on center, a 5/8-inch drywall is recommended.

D. Use 220-grit sandpaper and sand the areas with a light and easy touch. Avoid using coarse sandpaper below 100 grit as that may damage the drywall.

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Q.  How many screws go into a sheet of drywall?

A. 20 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 30 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

B. 18 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 26 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

C. 38 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 46 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

D. 28 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 36 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

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Q.  How far should drywall be off the ceiling?

A. This is when the inside of your house starts to look like a house, with the drywall and most of the carpentry completed, expect about two months of finish work.

B. Drywall screws should be placed 12 to 16 inches apart, but the distance can vary. Place screws eight inches apart on edges and ceiling edges, and no more than 12 inches apart on the ceiling field. Screws are the most secure and efficient way to hang drywall.

C. Drywall should definitely not touch concrete as moisture will wick (ie flow up the surface as in a candle/lamp wick) into the drywall and encourage mold growth. 3/8" should be sufficient - your prop up plan is not only appropriate, but a common technique used by drywallers.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

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Q.  What comes first flooring or drywall?

A. When you're hanging drywall and installing new flooring, it's usually best to hang the drywall first and then save the floor for last.

B. As a rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

C. Although you can install drywall by yourself, the job will be much easier if you have a helper or two, especially if you are covering the ceiling.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

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Q.  Do you hang drywall top to bottom?

A. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

B. Although you can install drywall by yourself, the job will be much easier if you have a helper or two, especially if you are covering the ceiling.

C. As a general rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

D. When hanging the drywall on the walls, always hang the top sheet first. Raise a sheet tight to the ceiling and secure it with a drywall nail at the top and bottom at each stud.

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Q.  How many screws go into a 4x8 sheet of drywall?

A. The wall length and ceiling area must be calculated and staggering or not staggering the sheetrock may impact how many panels are needed to complete the job. Purpose – The type of finished job should be considered when hanging sheetrock.

B. Although you can install drywall by yourself, the job will be much easier if you have a helper or two, especially if you are covering the ceiling.

C. Use about 28-32 drywall screws per sheet of 4-foot by 8-foot drywall installed horizontally on a wall. This total is comprised of four screws on the five middle studs and six screws on each of the two sides.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

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Q.  Is putting up drywall hard?

A. As a general rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

B. With patience, the right tools, and a friend to help you, hanging drywall is not very difficult. Once you've learned how to hang drywall, learn how to tape, and finish the installed drywall for professional-quality results. The joint work is easier than it seems and provides very satisfying results.

C. Your drywall should end on stud or be butted up in the center with another piece of drywall. Either cut your drywall or add more studs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 17-19" on center which sounds like about 3 studs per sheet. I have run into this with old houses.

D. The wall length and ceiling area must be calculated and staggering or not staggering the sheetrock may impact how many panels are needed to complete the job. Purpose – The type of finished job should be considered when hanging sheetrock.

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Q.  Should drywall touch the floor?

A. As a general rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

B. Drywall should never touch the floor. Allow for a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) space between your new wall and your old flooring, so there is room for expansion of both materials without cracking the drywall.

C. Your drywall should end on stud or be butted up in the center with another piece of drywall. Either cut your drywall or add more studs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 17-19" on center which sounds like about 3 studs per sheet. I have run into this with old houses.

D. The wall length and ceiling area must be calculated and staggering or not staggering the sheetrock may impact how many panels are needed to complete the job. Purpose – The type of finished job should be considered when hanging sheetrock.

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Q.  How is drywall attached to the wall?

A. However, during installation, be diligent about keeping that 1/8-inch space between sheets by using a guide. The blade of a drywall square is about 1/8-inch-thick and does the trick. Thin strips of wood can also be used as spacing guides.

B. On walls, use drywall nails or screws to attach drywall panels (“Sheetrock®”) to studs and top and bottom plates. Panel joints should be centered against ceiling joists or wall studs and staggered, so they don't align with adjacent joints.

C. The wall length and ceiling area must be calculated and staggering or not staggering the sheetrock may impact how many panels are needed to complete the job. Purpose – The type of finished job should be considered when hanging sheetrock.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

16 / 19

Q.  Do you drywall ceiling or walls first?

A. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

B. Your drywall should end on stud or be butted up in the center with another piece of drywall. Either cut your drywall or add more studs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 17-19" on center which sounds like about 3 studs per sheet. I have run into this with old houses.

C. As a general rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

D. Hang drywall on the ceiling first, then the walls. Check the ceiling for bowed joists using a 4-ft. level.

17 / 19

Q.  What tools are needed to put up drywall?

A. Wire strippers, insulated screwdrivers, insulated pliers, electrical tape, hacksaws, cable cutters, spanners, and a voltage tester.

B. Pipe wrench, basin wrench, adjustable wrench, faucet key, pipe Work, hacksaw, tube and plastic pipe cutters, plumber's torch, and thread sealing tape.

C. Drywall knife, a drywall knife is one of the first items that your teams should be putting together when getting ready to go out on a job, drywall lifts, jab saw, electric drywall saw, utility knife, T-square, tape measure, and a dust Mask.

D. Battery Powered/Cordless Drill. One tool that is an absolute must is a cordless drill, electrical Testers/Multimeter, reciprocating Saw, tape Measure (25-footer), step Ladder, hammer, extension Cord (50-footer), and screw Drivers.

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Q.  Should I use #6 or #8 drywall screws?

A. Butt joints have no recess, so you have to build up a layer of mud that's thin enough and wide enough to blend into the surrounding flat surface. When it comes to finishing drywall, the hardest part of the job is usually the butt joints—the joints formed where two non-tapered ends of drywall meet.

B. Drywall only, please: Don't use drywall screws for sub-floors, tile backing or other non-drywall applications. These denser materials can break the smaller #6 screw during installation. Use a #8 or larger for these jobs.

C. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

D. Use 220-grit sandpaper and sand the areas with a light and easy touch. Avoid using coarse sandpaper below 100 grit as that may damage the drywall.

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Q.  What are the two types of seams between drywall sheets?

A. Lightweight joint compound weighs less than regular and offers lower shrinkage. After applying any type of joint compound, it must dry before sanding it. When sanding it, lightweight compound is easier to sand than regular. It is used for all drywall needs, including covering joints, corner beads, fasteners, and trim.

B. When installing drywall flat against a stud, there are two types of drywall joints, or seams, you can make: the butt joint or the tapered joint. In many cases, the type of joint you use is dictated by the application. But in a few instances, you may have a choice between butt and tapered joints.

C. You can use paper or mesh tape to finish the joints. Mesh tape is usually self-adhesive and can go right on the joints. For paper, you will need to apply a thin coat of mud to the joint, apply the tape, and press into place with the drywall knife.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

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