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American Catastrophe Restoration Certification Program

Welcome to American Catastrophe Restoration Certification Program

We are excited about all the new features and certification programs allowing are client base to see the confidence we have with are technicians on all aspects of the job. All technicians and vendors are Am-cat certified when repairing and or installing any contracted items to said properties.

These test guarantees a detailed pre-construction evaluation when planning is crucial to perform a successful outcome in our construction projects in assuring on-time delivery, and city code and or townships standards in allowing are clients higher success rates and Team members have a clear pathway with a Am-cats plan in all bidding process through each construction phases.

We take pride in easing that burden and in gaining client confidence and credibility all are technicians complete the related certification that relates to their trade and all Project Leads & Managers our certified in all Am-Cat certifications before performance can take place in running a rebuild.

Please follow us on our social media platforms for key Q & A to take the certification with success. Our Am-Cat Certification program was produced and created by Cory Meister

AMERICAN CATASTROPHE EMERGENCY SERVICES

Am-CatEms Certification

American Catastrophe Restoration sister company American Catastrophe Emergency Services is in business to help people get their lives back to normal. During times of unawareness met with unfortunate loss and frustration.

We take pride in easing that burden. We have all are technicians complete all 18 Am-CatEms certifications before performance can take place.

Am-CatEms certifications

Am-CatEms Certification

We have all are technicians complete Am-CatEms certifications

ROUGH FRAMING BUILDING

Created on April 13, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Rough Framing Certification

Rough framing carpenters may hone their skills in a wide range of rough framing or specialize in one style. All rough framing carpenters our Am-Cat certified.

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Q. Are windows included in framing?

A. No, Only framing in house construction includes the vertical and horizontal members of exterior walls and interior partitions. These members, referred to as studs, wall plates and lintels, serve as a nailing base for all covering material and support the upper floors, ceiling and roof.

B. Once framing is complete, an inspector will come out again to verify that everything has been done to code. After that, exterior finishes like plywood and house wrap will be applied to seal off the inside from the outside.

C. Yes, framing, or the process of erecting the structural outline of a new building, is a critical step in any building construction project. This structural outline will be what holds the walls, siding, windows, doors, and roof. It's also where the plumbing and electrical wiring is concealed.

D. Framing a home usually takes 5-8 weeks. It also depends on the type of home you are building, the size of the home you are building, and the location. So, at this point, if all has gone according to plan you can expect to be on your 3rd month when your framing begins. Included in framing is the roof of the home.

2 / 15

Q. What are the two most common stud spacing?

A. Standard two-by-four studs actually measure about 1 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches. Studs are installed in vertical rows between the walls top and bottom plates. The vertical members of walls, are typically spaced every 16 inches (generally called 16 inches on center, or 16” OC).

B. Rectangular or square ducting comes in standard sizes ranging from 3 inches by 7 inches to 35 inches by 40 inches. Sizing is based on airflow needs per cubic foot per minute, as well as velocity.

C. Some typical US Customary trade sizes for conduit are ½, ¾, 1, and up to 4. Outside the US, conduit sizes are typically measured in millimeters and are based on the outer diameter. Some common metric outer diameter sizes are 20 mm, 25 mm, 32 mm, 40 mm and 50 mm.

D. Most plumbing codes and building codes require support for horizontal pipe lines every 3 feet for pipe in 1/2”-1” diameters, and every 4 feet for pipe with diameters greater than 1”. Support spacing should be in accordance with applicable plumbing and building codes.

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Q. What are four major elements of advanced framing?

A. Plumbing system has three major components: pipes and fittings, drainage, and fixtures.

B. Four main types of HVAC systems. There are split systems, hybrid systems, duct-free systems, and packaged heating and air systems. EacB. these types of HVAC units have pro's and con's, and knowing these factors can help you decide which is best for you

C. Advanced framing typically includes 2x6 wood framing spaced at 24 inches on center and some or all of the following techniques: single top plates, two-stud corner junctions, minimal use of jack studs and cripples, and the elimination of redundant studs and unnecessary blocking and bridging.

D. The basic electrical quantities are electrical current and voltage, electrical charge, resistance, capacitance, inductance and electric power.

4 / 15

Q. What is the most common type of framing?

A. Non-combustible and Masonry Non-Combustible are different construction types. Rates usually vary HIGH for these two construction types.

B. Platform framing is the most common framing technique in modern residential construction. Where each story is framed on top of the previous one. Builders will frame in one-story platforms of typically eight or nine-foot-high stud walls resting on a subfloor — the platform.

C. Framing materials are usually wood, engineered wood, or structural steel. The alternative to framed construction is generally called mass wall construction, where horizontal layers of stacked materials such as log building, masonry, rammed earth, adobe, etc. are used without framing.

D. Wood frames are by for the most common and popular type of house frame. Homes built from these types of frames are also called "stick-built" homes. Wood frames are easy to build, and the materials are also extremely easy to come by, hence their popularity.

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Q. What is the most common type of framing?

A. Non-combustible and Masonry Non-Combustible are different construction types. Rates usually vary HIGH for these two construction types.

D. Common studs are vertical members which transfer loads vertically to bottom plates. They are usually evenly spaced to suit loads, lining and cladding fixing.

6 / 15

Q. What are the three types of framing for wood structures?

A. Frame (Frame ISO 1): Risks under this construction type have exterior walls and bearing walls that are of wood or light-gauge metal. This construction type will also include risks that are of brick veneer, stone veneer, or stucco.

B. In general, there are four different types elements you can use to create a frame within your shot: architectural, natural, geometric shapes, and light/shadow.

C. Since the 1830s, two methods of wood framing have been used to facilitate building a structure: balloon framing and platform framing.

D. Modern wood framing essentially includes three types: balloon, platform and semi-balloon framing. With long lumber lengths, vertical load-bearing framing studs run continuously from foundation to roof. Intermediate horizontal floor joists are nailed to the sides of the vertical studs and bear on a ledger.

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Q. What is a rough framing city inspection?

A. Rough framing. The rough framing is the first part of the four-way inspection. At this stage the house will be completely framed with exterior doors and windows installed. There are literally hundreds of items that the inspector will look for during the framing inspection the most important of which are structural items. Once framing is complete, an inspector will come out to verify that everything has been done to code.

B. Rough framing consists of the creation of a structure based on vertical components, known as studs, which provide a stable frame for interior and exterior wall coverings. Horizontal elements called joists, run the length of the floor, or between walls or beams. The joists support ceilings and floors.

C. There are a number of reasons why electrical work done on your home might fail inspection. Some of the most common are: Lack of GFCI protection on outlets in kitchens, bathrooms, or other areas where water might be involved. Exposed wiring or open-sliced wires.

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Q. What does rough framing include?

A. For most homes, construction framers measure, cut and assemble lumber for the walls and subfloor, adding anchors and other vital structural supports. A rough framing carpenter also measures and attaches studs around the spaces for doors and windows, and sets joists for the ceiling, then trusses for the roof. Installation of floor joists, floor sheathing, layout and installation of walls, hanging and nailing of shear panels, setting and bracing roof trusses and rafters, installation of starter board, roof sheathing, and fascia board installation.

B. When carpenters focus on the numerous wood details that complete the interior of the home.

C. All the carpentry encompasses all work done inside a house after framing, sheathing, wiring, plumbing, insulation and drywall have been installed.

E. The exterior and interior finishing of buildings and structures to enhance their service and aesthetic look.

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Q. What is the purpose of a rough opening in framing?

A. A rough opening is the opening that is left in a frame wall where the window frame will sit. The measurements of the rough opening will be important for you to choose the right window frame size. The actual window size will be lesser as the frame will have a header, sill, and vertical trimmers that will have to fit in.

B. Recommended rough opening is between 3/4" (19mm) - 1" (25mm) larger than the window width and height. Ensure that the rough opening is plumb, level and square, and the walls in the opening are not twisted.

C. Framing rough opening sizes are really quite simple. Just add 2″ to the width of the actual door size. You should add 2-1/2″ to the height of the actual door. This will give you room to space the door frame off of the sub-floor.

D. The rough opening should be 49 by 82 for a 48-by-80-inch door. This allows for 1/2-inch-thick drywall on both sides and at the top, 80 inches for the doors and hardware, and a 1-to- 1 1/2-inch space under the door.

E. All The Above.

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Q. What are the two types of framing?

A. Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs) ICF wall systems produce strong, energy-efficient, durable, and disaster-resistant framing for a house.

B. Light Wood Framing

C. Concrete Masonry Units (CMUs) Framing

D. Steel Frame Construction

E. All of Above.

11 / 15

Q. What are the two types of framing?

A. There are several types of home framing options available, but the two most common types are platform framing and balloon framing.

B. The most common framing technique in modern residential construction is platform framing, in which each story is framed on top of the previous one. Builders will frame in one-story platforms of typically eight- or nine-foot-high stud walls resting on a subfloor—the platform.

C. Principal types of framing for light structures: western, balloon, and braced.

D. Framing your house is an ambitious yet exciting project. There are two basic house framing methods: the platform method (most common) and balloon construction (used in older grand houses) and in both methods the wall studs and ceiling and floor joists are repeated over every 16 or 24 inches of the frame.

12 / 15

Q. What is included in rough carpentry?

A. Rough carpentry focuses on the framing of a building. This means the carpenters are responsible for the wood or metal support systems the make up a structure's walls, floors, and roof. Think of the frame as the building's skeleton.

B. CDX is veneer plywood, which is manufactured by gluing and pressing together sheets of wood. The letters C and D represent the grades of either side of the plywood, while X stands for exposure.

C. Plywood sheathing (OSB or plywood) is often mistaken for plywood underlayment. They are not the same. Plywood sheathing is most often used to construct the structural sub-floor. Plywood sheathing can either be OSB or all plywood

D. There are four grades of plywood: A, B, C and D. The grade refers to the quality and appearance of the plywood's face and back veneers. A has the highest quality and is the most expensive, and D is the least expensive. A-grade plywood features a smooth, sanded surface without knots

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Q. What is the most common spacing for wall studs?

A. To summarize, studs at 24-inch spacing will save money and resources, and are safe. With 2x6s, it's a no-brainer for most residential construction—they're plenty strong in nearly any configuration. With 2x4 studs you can also get by with 32-inch spacing, but walls should be 9 feet tall or less and the loads modest.

B. Studs are vertical boards -- they are generally 2 x 4's, although they actually measure 1 1/2 inches thick and 3 1/2 wide -- and are installed at intervals inside a wall to strengthen it and support the wallboard, paneling or plaster.

C. You should always find studs spaced either 16 or 24 inches on-center (measured from center to center) along the wall and run between the floor and ceiling.

D. How far apart are the studs in my home? They're always spaced either 16 or 32 inches on center (measured from center to center) along the wall and run between the floor and ceiling. Drywall or lath (for plaster walls) attaches to the edge of the studs.

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Q. How big should a rough door opening be?

A. The frame should be 3/16" wider than the slab (1/16" clearance on the hinge jamb and 1/8" clearance on the strike jamb) and tall enough (usually 1/4" - 1/2" taller) to allow 1/8" clearance on the head jamb and allow the slab to operate without rubbing on any flooring.

B. Framing rough opening sizes are really quite simple. Just add 2″ to the width of the actual door size. You should add 2-1/2″ to the height of the actual door. This will give you room to space the door frame off of the sub-floor.

C Width is a jamb-to-jamb measurement of the space where the door slab will go, measure the jamb (hump to hump), add 2 1/2" (Frames generally measure 1 1/4" thick each x2), add 3/4" to unit width measurement, and the final sum will be your opening width.

D. The height for all passage doors must be a minimum of 80 inches and the standard width sizes for interior doors are 24”, 28”, 30”, 32” and 36”. The minimum recommended door width to allow persons with disabilities' to pass through is 36 inches.

E. All The Above.

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Q. What are four major elements of advanced framing?

A. Advanced Plumbing system has three major components: pipes and fittings, drainage, and fixtures.

B. Advanced House framing, sometimes called optimum value engineering (OVE), refers to framing techniques designed to reduce the amount of lumber used and waste generated in the construction of a wood-framed house.

C. Advanced Framing typically includes 2x6 wood framing spaced at 24 inches on center and some or all of the following techniques: single top plates, two-stud corner junctions, minimal use of jack studs and cripples, and the elimination of redundant studs and unnecessary blocking and bridging.

D. Advanced framing is less expensive than conventional framing because it is more resource efficient than conventional framing. By optimizing framing material use, the builder can cut floor and wall framing material costs by up to 30 percent while reducing framing installation and labor.

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ROUGH HVAC IN BUILDINGS

Created on April 13, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Rough HVAC Certification

Rough HVAC Technicians may hone their skills in a wide range of roughing in Ducking, all rough HVAC technicians are Am-Cat certified.

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Q. What heats and cools your house?

A. Instead of sending water through the heater, cold water service lines run directly to every water appliance in the home. Plumbers install these pipes in straight lines, 90 degree angles, or slight downward slopes to facilitate easier flow.

B. Furnaces and heaters put heat into the air to make your home warmer; air conditioners remove heat to make your home cooler. All heating and cooling units burn fuel. Air conditioners use electricity. Most home heating systems use gas or fuel oil; other systems use electricity.

C. If there's no room between the lock and frame, slide the card in the space above the lock and between the door and the frame. Angle the card towards the frame. Then, swipe quickly downward. To open a locked interior door with a screwdriver, first push the screwdriver as far as you can into the hole on the doorknob.

D. Solar (such as photovoltaics) generally using solar panels, wind using a wind turbine (windmill) to turn a generator for your power, geothermal which is basically heat extraction from the earth, and micro-hydro using the natural flow of water.

2 / 6

Q. Is heating and cooling system the same?

A. A package HVAC unit combines multiple units, such as an air conditioner and heater, into a single unit. The unit is usually placed outside. Split systems, on the other hand, divide each system into its own unit, so your heater and air conditioner are separate.

B. HVAC can include heat pumps and gas furnaces as well as air conditioning units. This means HVAC deals with both heating and cooling. Companies will use the terms interchangeably because many AC repair services deal with both heating and cooling solutions. HVAC also covers ventilation and ductwork.

C. Yes, A thermostat registers the temperature and kicks off the HVAC system, heat pumps have the same parts as a split-system air conditioner and work in the same way when they're needed for cooling.

D. First and foremost, HVAC stands for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. This system provides heating and cooling to residential and commercial buildings.

E. All THe Above.

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Q. How long does an HVAC system last?

A. Generally, brass pipes can survive between 80-100 years. However, brass pipes are used less frequently today than they once were, as they often contained trace levels of lead (we'll get to that later.) Galvanized Steel: Galvanized steel piping also last between 80-100 years.

B. 15 to 25 years a heating or cooling system is a significant investment, and it only makes sense to get as much use out of it as possible. In general, most HVAC systems will last from 15 to 25 years but depending on the type of system and other contributing factors, that estimate can be highly variable.

C. As a general rule, home wiring can last past 50 years. But it can also be far less than this—for example, if the wiring was badly installed in the first place or amateur modifications were made to it at some point.

D. Slate, copper and tile roofs, which are on the upper end of the price spectrum, can last more than 50 years. Homeowners with wood shake roofs should expect them to last about 30 years, while fiber cement shingles last about 25 years and asphalt shingle/composition roofs last about 20 years, the NAHB found.

4 / 6

Q. What is HVAC ventilation ?

A. Natural ventilation can generally provide a high ventilation rate more economically, due to the use of natural forces and large openings.

B. Supply Ventilation.

C. Ductwork refers to the system of ducts (metal or synthetic tubes) used to transport air from heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) equipment throughout your home. Properly installed and well-maintained air ducts are a key component of indoor air quality and home comfort.

D. MECHANISED FANS. In some cases, a natural ventilation solution isn't possible due to the design and location of building.

5 / 6

Q. What is used to keep the air clean in HVAC systems?

A. Portable air cleaners, also known as air purifiers or air sanitizers, are designed to filter the air in a single room or area. Central furnace or HVAC filters are designed to filter air throughout a home.

B. An air scrubber is a device that attaches directly to the ductwork of your HVAC system. It removes air pollution, VOCs, surface contaminants, pet dander, odors and dust. It provides a cleaner, healthier and more efficient home.

C. To clean your HVAC filter, first turn off your heating or air conditioner. Locate your HVAC unit's service panel, and open it to find the filter. Clean the filter with running water, such as your sink or garden hose. Allow your HVAC filter to air dry completely before reinserting!

D. An air scrubber is a device that attaches directly to the ductwork of your HVAC system. It removes air pollution, VOCs, surface contaminants, pet dander, odors and dust. It provides a cleaner, healthier and more efficient home.

6 / 6

Q. How does HVAC ventilation work?

A. The HVAC system does not bring fresh air into a building. A space is heated and cooled using recycled indoor air, with exterior HVAC units serving as a means of air release rather than intake.

B. Poor indoor air quality can lead to more severe health effects like: Conjunctival (eye) irritation. Rashes. Fever, Chills.

C. The V in HVAC, or ventilation, is the process of replacing or exchanging air within a space. This provides a better quality of air indoors and involves the removal of moisture, smoke, odors, heat, dust, airborne bacteria, carbon dioxide, and other gases as well as temperature control and oxygen replenishment.

D. All The Above.

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ROUGH ELECTRICAL IN BUILDINGS

Created on April 14, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Rough In-Electrical Certification

Rough Electrical trades may hone their skills in a wide range of electrical techniques, all electricians s are Am-Cat certified.

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Q. Can I sign off on electrical work without being registered?

A. Your best bet is to commission your own electrician (NICEIC recommended) and pay them to carry out a full EICR for you. If the installation is found to be unsatisfactory then you can re-negotiate on the asking price with the seller and get the works sorted out properly once you move in.

B. These are the main electrical jobs that you'll be allowed to undertake yourself. So, you might want to change and/or move sockets, ceiling lights or light switches. You can even look to change any wires that might look old or damaged.

C. If the work takes place without being signed-off on either by building control or a registered electrician, you will have an uncertified installation, which can create problems when it comes to selling the property.

D. A 'non-qualified' person can still carry out notifiable electrical work as long as Building Control are informed – but if you fail to do this and the work is found to be unsafe, it can lead to a hefty fine.

2 / 10

Q. How do I prepare for an electrical rough inspection?

A. Ask the inspector first.

B. Don't add any devices.

C. Tie your grounds together.

D. Fire block.

E. Plug holes in boxes.

F. Use correct breaker.

G. Don't power the circuit.

H. Cover the wires with wire nuts.

I. All The Above.

3 / 10

Q. What is electrical rough-in inspection?

A. At this point, all the walls are closed in, painting is finished, floors are complete, and you are ready to install the furniture. Be sure that all the circuits are functioning, and every light fixture has been hung and is connected.

B. Major remodeling work to a kitchen or bathroom also requires permits and electrical inspections. The first is called the rough-in inspection. This takes place when you have installed all of the electrical boxes, cables, conduit, and wires to the point that you are ready for the walls to be closed up by surfaces.

C. The goal of the Electrical Inspection Bureau is to enforce the safe installation of electrical wiring and equipment and to avoid the danger of electrical shock and fire.

D. An electrical safety check takes approximately two hours to complete, depending on the size of your property. If urgent repairs are required, then the check may take longer.

4 / 10

Q. Can you run two wires in conduit?

A. For two 12/2 NM cable, you need at least 1" conduit (by calculations below) but it'll still be a difficult pull. For two 12/2 UF, you'll need at least 1-1/4" conduit.

B. The maximum number of 12-gauge THHN conductors for a 3/4-inch EMT conduit is nine. The answer would be different for another type of conduit (for example, ENT), or if the conductor had a different insulation type or different outside diameter.

C. Run two more wires up the conduit - two for LINE, two for LOAD. Tape them creatively to distinguish them. The simple answer to your question is yes according to NEC Article 334.15 (B), but it may be a little more complicated than that. First the conductors must be rated for wet location.

D. When using any non metallic wire outdoor, including Romex, it is a good idea to run it through a conduit. Yes, they can be used outdoors, it is better to be safe than sorry. We recommend using a conduit when running the wire underground.

5 / 10

Q. Can you run solid wire in conduit?

A. Anything in EMT/conduit is stranded but most other work is solid wire. I do however, like to use ideal pigtails for most connections as they are 12ga stranded copper with a forked connector so the connections can be pushed into the back of the box and there is less stress on the device.

B No, you cannot run your Romex wiring in conduits.

C. The most significant difference between stranded and solid cable is performance. Because higher gauge conductors (thinner) have more insertion loss than lower gauge (thicker) conductors, stranded cables exhibit 20 to 50% more attenuation than solid copper conductors (20% for 24 AWG and 50% for 26 AWG).

D. The most common type of cable used in home wiring is non-metallic (NM), or Romex, cable. While NM cable can be run inside a conduit, this is seldom done. The types of wire most commonly installed inside of conduit are THHN and THWN. THHN/THWN wires are individual, insulated, and color-coded wires.

6 / 10

Q. What type of wire can I run in conduit?

A. Romex cannot be used in the situation you describe as buried conduit is considered a wet location. You must use conductors such as THWN. Also, minimum burial depth for conduit (PVC I assume) is 18", unless you run rigid or IMC, in which case you can go a minimum of 6".

B. Wiring used with conduit, the most common type of cable used in home wiring is non-metallic (NM), or Romex, cable. While NM cable can be run inside a conduit, this is seldom done. The types of wire most commonly installed inside of conduit are THHN and THWN.

C. You can run type NM cable in conduit, as long as the conduit is sized appropriately, and is not in a wet or damp location. If you remove the sheath from the conductors inside NM cable, you cannot use the conductors for anything (anything electrical anyway).

D. No, you can not run your Romex wiring in conduits.

7 / 10

Q. How do you rough in electrical wires?

A. Mark the box locations. Measure and mark the center of each box.

B. Place the box on the framing member.

C. Drill into corners at an angle.

D. Thread the cable through the holes.

E. Run the cable around corners.

F. Knock out a hole in the box.

G. Cut and strip the wires.

H. Push the wires into the box.

I. All The Above.

8 / 10

Q. What is included in electrical rough in?

A. The HVAC rough in period refers to when the HVAC ductwork has been installed, yet no plumbing, electrical, or exterior walls have been put into place. This is so that inspectors can have a much easier time coming in and going over each aspect of the ductwork, making sure that it is not contaminated and is fit for use.

B. Electrical rough-in, this includes laying out lines, mounting junction boxes, pulling wiring, and setting up the electrical panel, grounding, and overhead service wire. This wiring is not connected to any devices, outlets, or switches during the rough-in.

C. Rough plumbing, commonly called the "rough-in" stage, generally consists of routing pipes through wall cavities, running vent stacks to the roof, and connecting drain lines and water supply lines to sewer systems, septic systems, or main water supply valves.

D. Framing, also known as rough carpentry, is what construction companies use to give a building structure support and shape. It consists of fitting together pieces of materials, such as wood, brick, concrete, and steel. Wood is the material most often used to frame houses.

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Q. Can you strip Romex and run-in conduit?

A. Romex is used for a purpose not to be use for something else.

B. No, that is not smart if you do not know the gage of the wire.

C. The application of Romex wires is limitless, but you actually can strip Romex and use it in a conduit outdoors. The answer is a resounding

D. When taking the wire out of Romex the wire becomes compromised.

10 / 10

Q. Do electrical wires need to be in conduit?

A. Copper is naturally corrosion resistant to most soils and underground environments. Wrapping or sleeving the copper tube in an effort to provide an additional layer of protection, while well intended, can lead to failure due to improper sleeving or wrapping practices.

B. There are no wires in conduit, and they must be installed or pulled through the conduit after installation. Rigid conduit is used for very large wires, exterior installations and where structural strength is required. EMT is the most common conduit used in residential wiring.

C. Conduit protects both humans and the electrical wiring to prevent wires from pulling loose and creating shock hazards. It's important to use conduit even for buried wires to prevent damage to wiring from digging and moisture.

D. Copper pipes are durable. They resist snapping and bacteria growth. One of the main strengths of copper is that it won't degrade in UV light. Unlike plastic pipes which are only for indoor use, copper pipes can be used in areas exposed to natural light.

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ROUGH PLUMBING IN BUILDINGS

Created on April 14, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Rough Plumbing Certification

Rough Plumbing trades mens may hone their skills in a wide range of plumbing techniques, all Plumbers are Am-Cat certified.

1 / 10

Q. What is a rough-in size for toilet?

A. Some older sinks may have drains that connect to a 1 1/4-inch tailpiece, but most modern drains have a 1 1/2-inch outlet. All the pipes that connect to the tailpiece, including the P-trap assembly and all the horizontal extensions, are either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inches in diameter.

B. The standard rough-in is 12 inches, though you may encounter 10-inch and 14-inch rough-ins in older homes. You should find the rough-in measurement in the new toilet's product information.

C. To know about the bathroom sink plumbing rough in heights you must understand that sink drain lines should be between 18 to 20 inches. The water supply pipes must be some inches higher and it should be 20 to 22 inches from the bathroom or kitchen floor and it is generally installed to the drain line sides.

D. The proper kitchen sink drain rough in height is 20 to 24 inches.

2 / 10

Q. What is a plumbing rough-in inspection?

A. Rough-in is the stage of a construction project when the various mechanical, electrical, and plumbing lines are brought in. Once the framing is up, the rough-in stage of construction begins. This is when lines are laid out, but final connections are not made until other stages of the project are completed.

B. A plumbing rough-in means that all water supply and drainpipes have been run through bored holes in the studs and other framing members and that all pipe connections have been made. A rough-in plumbing installation will need to be pressure-tested before it is deemed complete.

C. The HVAC rough in period refers to when the HVAC ductwork has been installed, yet no plumbing, electrical, or exterior walls have been put into place. This is so that inspectors can have a much easier time coming in and going over each aspect of the ductwork, making sure that it is not contaminated and is fit for use.

D. Rough-in inspection is the stage of a building project in which different mechanical, electrical, and plumbing works are checked. Once the framing is complete, the rough construction stage starts. This is when lines are drawn up, but final connections are made after other project phases have been completed.

3 / 10

Q. What is code for a shower drain

A. While a shower usually requires a 2-inch drainpipe, the vent pipe must be either 1 1/2 inches or 2 inches depending on local requirements. Be sure to double check this to see what the code is in your area.

B. The drain hole should be a minimum of twelve inches away from the wall and 9 inches in scope. Too rough in the drain, use a 1.5-inch pipe.

C. The water supply line runs out of the wall into a hole in the back of the vanity, typically placed at a height of 22 to 24 inches from the finish floor. The sink drain is then situated just 4 inches inward from the water supply line.

D. This means the Drain will typically sit 3-5” away from the back wall. It is ideal to take measurements and center the drain on the wall.

4 / 10

Q. Does rough-in plumbing include valves?

A. Water valves regulate the flow and temperature in pipes and plumbing fixtures. When they are installed and operate properly, the valves control constant flow and volume. Materials used for water valves include brass, plastic, stainless steel, bronze, cast iron and galvanized pipe.

B. Yes, A device designed to control and guide the flow of water. Examples include faucets, shower heads, shutoff valves, shower valves, and drinking fountain spouts.

C. No, on your Rough-In, values aren’t needed in the rough plumbing installations consists of routing pipes through wall cavities, running vent stacks to the roof and connecting drain lines and water supply lines to sewer systems, septic systems, or main water supply valve is the only valved used. How far should a shower drain be from the wall and how far should a linear drain be from the wall?

D. Drain lines and water supply lines are connected to sewer systems, septic systems, or main water supply valves. Pipe connections are made. Excavation and laying of underground pipes that run from utility connections to a primary structure is completed.

5 / 10

Q. What does top out mean in plumbing?

A. "Top out" is a part of roughing in but in the trades "roughing in" refers to us running the pipes up from underground/floor and "top out" refers to above (top of) ground/floor to out the roof.

B. The plumbing stub-outs are the end result of the rough-in phase of plumbing a residential or commercial building. They are usually installed while the walls are still uncovered; and after the drywall work and painting is complete, a plumber comes back and hooks them up to the plumbing fixtures.

C. There are three different types of plumbing systems; sanitary drainage, stormwater drainage and potable water.

D. So to can cleanout in your PVC systems in a building drain.

6 / 10

Q. What code book do licenses plumbers use?

A. If anyone other than the owner and occupant does the plumbing or if it is a commercial property, the work must be done by an Illinois licensed plumber.

B. Each city has their codes they enforce be advised, the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO) has released the 2021 edition of the National Standard Plumbing Code – Illustrated (NSPC). An updated version of the 2018 NSPC, the book may be purchased via the IAPMO web store.

C. Applicants must have been employed as a licensed apprentice plumber for a minimum of 4 years and have successfully completed at least 2 years of high school or equivalent in addition to completing an approved course instruction through a college, university, or trade school.

D. After working as an apprentice for a minimum of 4 years but no more than 6 years, you may apply to take the state test for licensing. Once you pass the test, you are a licensed plumber in the state of Illinois.

7 / 10

Q. How close does rough-in plumbing need to be?

A. For 4-inch PVC piping and a building sewer less than 50 feet long, the minimum slope is 1 inch in 8 feet, or 1/8-inch per foot, and the maximum is 1/4-inch per foot. For sewers longer than 50 feet, the slope should be 1/4-inch per foot

B. It should be between 10 and 14” from the floor. You will need to connect this discharge hole to the drainpipe with a sanitary tee. You can then move on to connect water supply lines to the shower valve or bathtub faucet. Imagine that there is an imaginary line running in the middle of the new fixture.

C. It is dependent upon gravity to function, so all waste pipes must slope downward, away from the fixtures and toward the sewer or septic tank, dropping at a rate of at least 1/4 inch per horizontal foot.

D. All of your drain pipe (with one exception) must slope slightly downhill. Usually 1/8" per foot is plenty for drainage, this is the same as the commonly recommended 1% slope.

8 / 10

Q. What comes after rough plumbing?

A. A 3-stage system might have “low”, “medium”, and “high”.) Like a hair dryer or a ceiling fan, they have some granularity to their output. Multistage systems are more common in larger and newer homes, and are often found in regions with very cold or very hot weather.

B. After the rough-in plumbing phase, once inspection passes, the remaining parts of the plumbing system (or finish plumbing) can be completed later in the construction process.

C. Three-phase power is a three-wire ac power circuit with each phase ac signal 120 electrical degrees apart. Residential homes are usually served by a single-phase power supply, while commercial and industrial facilities usually use a three-phase supply.

D. Drawing this is how I start, Blocking in, do all my corners, Adding color, Adding layers, Finished painting.

9 / 10

Q. What are the three stages of plumbing?

A. Underground rough-in phase.

B. Above ground rough-in phase.

C. Finishing phase (trim-out).

D. All The Above.

10 / 10

Q. Where do you start rough-in plumbing?

A. Ductwork Installation - Your HVAC Contractor will start by running the ductwork in the attic, or if your property has a crawlspace or a basement, perhaps in the floor joists.

B. In homes with slab foundations, the rough-in occurs before contractors pour in the slab. Typically, waste lines go in first because the pipes that take wastewater from the building are larger than supply lines. After installing the waste lines, the plumbers will then lay in the water supply piping.

C. Rough-in is the stage of a construction project when the various mechanical, electrical, and plumbing lines are brought in. Once the framing is up, the rough-in stage of construction begins. This is when lines are laid out, but final connections are not made until other stages of the project are completed.

D. In a general sense, rough-in refers to the stage of construction after the basic framing is complete and the initial services (such as wiring or pipes) have been installed, but their end-points (such as outlets or fixtures) have not been installed.

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STRUCTURD WIRING BY TELESTYLES

Created on April 15, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Structural Wiring Certification

Our Partnership with Telestyles networks provides their skills in a wide range of non voltages techniques, Telestyles certified.

1 / 22

Q. What can I run with my smart home structural system.

A. You can integrate most (if not all) of your smart home devices with your voice assistant, and then control them with your voice instead of a touch screen interface, by saying things like “turn the bedroom lights on”, “set the thermostat to 75”, and “lock all the doors.

B. You can mix and match throughout your entire home, fitting each individual light with the most appropriate smart light option.

C. Automation systems can raise the value of your home by up to 5%. Others report that it can be up to 35%. Smart homes can make your life easier and save you money.

D. These smart home devices allow you to control things like wifi, door locks, security cameras, video doorbells, smart lights, appliances, heating and cooling and other systems in your home. You've probably heard a lot about home automation systems (aka smart home systems).

E. All The Above.

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Q. What is the difference between Wi-Fi 5 and Wi-Fi 6?

A. Wi-Fi 6 devices are backward compatible with previous generations of Wi-Fi. You can get a phone with Wi-Fi 6 and connect it to your Wi-Fi 5 or Wi-Fi 4 router. You can get a router with Wi-Fi 6 and connect your older Wi-Fi devices to it, too.

B. As Intel put it, "Wi-Fi 6 is capable of a maximum throughput of 9.6 Gbps across multiple channels, compared to 3.5 Gbps on Wi-Fi 5." In theory, a Wi-Fi 6 capable router could hit speeds over 250% faster than current Wi-Fi 5 devices.

C. 2.4 GHz is not as impacted by walls, and as such was able to maintain the same transfer rate, even though it was still quite a bit slower. So the results are clear. Wi-Fi 6 can offer a significantly higher level of throughput than Wi-Fi 5, but in order to do so, it needs a strong signal.

D. Wi-Fi, often referred to as WiFi, wifi, wi-fi or wi fi, is often thought to be short for Wireless Fidelity but there is no such thing. The term was created by a marketing firm because the wireless industry was looking for a user-friendly name to refer to some not so user-friendly technology known as IEEE 802.11.

3 / 22

Q. What are the three types of cables?

A. The most common sizes you'll find in residential work are 14-gauge and 12-gauge. Larger appliances such as electric stoves, electric water heaters, electric dryers and central air units will often use 10-, 8- or even 6-gauge wire.

B. Fiber optic cable, twisted pair cable, and coaxial cable are the three main types of network cables used in communication systems. Each of them is different and suitable for various applications.

C. Types of Wiring; triplex wires, main feeder wires, panel feed wires, non-metallic sheathed wires and Single strand wires.

D. Ethernet cables come with RJ45 connectors on both ends. Because of this, an Ethernet cable is sometimes designated as an RJ45 cable. These cables are often used to connect computers onto Ethernet networks.

4 / 22

Q. Which wires are used in RJ45?

A. Cat6 ethernet cables will have 8 copper wires inside them. They have 4 pairs of 2 copper wires surrounded in insulation material. The copper conductors are also twisted together for better performance against crosstalk.

B. Ethernet Cat 5 cables have eight wires (four pairs), but under 10BaseT and 100BaseT standards (10 Mbps and 100 Mbps, respectively) only four (two pairs) of these wires are actually used.

C. A Category 7 cable (CAT 7) is used for the cabling infrastructure of Gigabit Ethernet with performance of up to 600MHz. Put simply, a CAT 7 cable is what we recommend you use when wiring your smart home.

D. The RJ45 data cables we use to connect computers to an ethernet switch is straight-through cables. As noted above, the RJ45 cable uses only two pairs of wires: Orange (pins 1 & 2) and green (pins 3 & 6). Pins 4, 5 (blue) and 7, 8 (brown) are NOT used.

5 / 22

Q. What are the two wiring standards for RJ45 wiring?

A. Cat5, Cat6, and Cat7 cables are the most common RJ45 cables used in today's network connection.

B. If you are looking at wiring RJ45 data jacks and plugs, there are presently two wiring standards that are almost unanimously accepted. These two standards are the T568A and the T568B. There are subtle differences between T568A and T568B, but this doesn't mean they shouldn't be addressed.

C. The RJ45 data cables we use to connect computers to a Ethernet switch is straight-through cables. As noted above, the RJ45 cable uses only 2-pairs of wires: Orange (pins 1 & 2) and Green (pins 3 & 6). Pins 4, 5 (Blue) and 7, 8 (Brown) are NOT used.

D. working with only 4 wire stranded cable isn't capable of gigabit ethernet (no surprise there). In fact, it can't even do fast ethernet.

6 / 22

Q. Do you need Cat6 for WIFI 6?

A. The right cable for Wi-Fi 6? Category 6A cables, especially those from Hitachi Cable America, are designed to support up to 10 Gigabit Ethernet, making them perfect for Wi-Fi 6. In fact, BICSI recommends installing 2 Category 6A cables per Wi-Fi access point.

B. Does WiFi 6 require new hardware? It's important to note that WiFi 6 relies on hardware updates rather than software updates, so new hardware is needed in order to see any boost in performance.

C. As technology continue to advance toward its maximum theoretical throughput of 10 Gb/s, each Wi-Fi access point is expected to require a minimum of two Cat 6A connections. It's not just speed you'll need to worry about.

D. 5g with Mm-Wave technology doesn't penetrate walls, most building materials, such as cement and brick, attenuate and reflect very high-frequency signals with a big enough loss you're unlikely to receive a very useful signal moving from inside to outside.

7 / 22

Q. What is a telecom room?

A. Telecommunications closet means a room for housing telecommunications equipment, cable terminations, and cross- connect wiring that serve that particular floor.

B. An equipment room is considered distinct from a telecommunications room because it is considered to be a building or campus serving (as opposed to floor serving) facility and because of the nature or complexity of the equipment that it contains.

C. A telecommunications room consolidates all connectivity from the enterprise network and building control systems and distributes it to pre-determined areas of the enterprise. It is the “horizontal” convergence point between the building's network backbone and workstations and conference rooms, or your utility room in homes.

D. In telecommunication, a telecommunications service is a service provided by a telecommunications provider, or a specified set of user-information transfer capabilities provided to a group of users by a telecommunications system.

8 / 22

Q. What are the types of cables, cables are classified into types depending upon their purpose ?

A. Ribbon electric cables. It consists of multiple insulated wires running parallel with one another and is used for transmission of multiple data simultaneously.

B. Shielded cables.

C. Twisted pair cables.

D. Coaxial cables.

E. Fiber optics cable.

F. All The Above.

9 / 22

Q. Is RJ45 the same as CAT5?

A. Although Cat5e does support Gigabit Ethernet (1000Mbps) over short distances it's a good idea to use Cat6 instead as this is designed to carry more data and you're less likely to get any issues with it.

B. All of the smart TVs currently accept an Ethernet cable at the back of the TV, while most also support wireless connection. To connect to the internet, you will need to set up a home network, and the process is very similar to connecting a laptop.

C. The difference between RJ45 and CAT5 is that RJ45 means electrical interconnection standards that is a connector whereas CAT5 is a standard related to the ethernet cables. CAT5 is easily replaceable, which makes managing them more manageable. In contrast, replacing RJ45 is difficult.

D. An Ethernet connection is generally faster than a WiFi connection and provides greater reliability and security.

10 / 22

Q. Do I need Cat5 or Cat6?

A. Cat 7 cables aren't officially supported by any home networking equipment manufacturer so they will be operating as Cat 6 cables due to backwards compatibility. You might as well get a Cat 6 cable.

B. If you want faster internet speeds, Cat6 is a good choice. It reduces something called “crosstalk” — signal transfers that disrupt your communication channels. If you are happy with your current internet speeds, however, Cat5 might be all you need. Besides, Cat5 cables tend to be cheaper than Cat6.

C. Remember, Cat5 has long been the “gold standard” of Ethernet cables and still does the job. If you are happy with your current internet speeds or have moved your server to the cloud, this type of cable is great. Cat6, on the other hand, provides you with enhanced performance and reduces crosstalk.

D. If we are talking about HDBaseT, then yes Cat5E (minimum), will support 4k video signal. To be more specific, 4k/UHD@30 YCbCr 4:4:4 8bpc, or 4k/UHD@60 YCbCr 4:2:0 8bpc. It will support HDR (HDR10 or HLG) and Dolby Vision

11 / 22

Q. What is a structured wiring package?

A. Structured wiring is a general term that refers to a whole-house network of audio, video, data, telephone, television, home automation or security signals. Wiring plan consists of coaxial cables, several fiber optics cables, and lots of Ethernet cables (Cat5e, Cat6, etc). Structured wiring can be run to every room in a home and terminated with a variety of specialized wall plates and ports for easy plug and play connection to the home network.

B. A structured wiring media panel has several functions. They terminate and distribute signals from service providers (telephone, DSL, CATV, cable modems, wireless devices, etc.) and provide a single, secure location for smart home control modules.

C. Structured wiring is not only organized but also has growth in mind because it can support high bandwidth. It allows you to upgrade your telecommunication system without a major overhaul. Installing a structured wiring system is also cost-effective because it makes changes, additions, and moves easier

D. If you're building a new home, seriously consider having smart wiring installed. Many people mistakenly believe smart wiring is a cable system, like cable TV. In fact, it's a wiring system you can use to integrate all the smart technology you use in your home. Smart wiring can be surprisingly inexpensive.

12 / 22

Q. What are the six components of structured cabling?

A.. Wire is made of materials like copper, aluminum and silver. As silver is expensive, mostly copper and aluminum are used in wiring. It is a good conductor of electricity. It is used in wiring materials in cables,

B. Parts the system are your heat exchanger, blower motor, combustion chamber, condenser, evaporator, and thermostat.

C. Structured cabling system consists of six essential components. They are horizontal cabling, backbone cabling, work area, telecommunications closet, equipment room and entrance facility.

D. System is considered to be the engine of the unit. Thus, the compressor is the most important component of your AC unit. This functions together along with a substance known as working fluid. Together, they help to transform the gas into a liquid.

13 / 22

Q. What is the purpose of structured cabling?

A. Defined as the practice, materials, and fixtures used in installing, maintaining, and altering piping, fixtures, appliances, and appurtenances in connection with sanitary or storm drainage facilities, a venting system, and public or private water supply systems.

B. Structured cabling is a type of infrastructure that supports the performance of an organization’s cabling system or network. It is the glue that binds all PCs, phones and other devices used within the business together – providing a reliable and versatile solution to a wide range of communication requirements.

C. For lighting, heating, cooling, and refrigeration and for operating appliances, computers, electronics, machinery, and public transportation systems.

D. The panels collect clean renewable energy in the form of sunlight and convert that light into electricity which can then be used to provide power for electrical loads.

14 / 22

Q. What is structural cabling system?

A. An electrical installation of cabling and associated devices such as switches, distribution boards, sockets, and light fittings in a structure. Wiring is subject to safety standards for design and installation.

B. Means the water supply and distribution pipes; plumbing fixtures, faucets and traps; soil, waste and vent pipes; and water-treating or water-using equipment.

C. A structured cabling system is a set of cabling and connectivity products that integrates the voice, data, video, and various management systems of a building (such as security alarms, security access, energy systems, etc.).

D. This system is responsible for heating and cooling your home and includes products like furnaces, air conditioners, heat pumps as well as ductwork, thermostats and other home comfort controls.

15 / 22

Q. How many wires does USB-C have?

A. Positive - The wire for the positive current is red. Negative - The wire for the negative current is black.

B. The meanings of these USB wire color code are: Red: The wire in red is used to pass positively charged electric power. It has 5V direct current electricity. Black: The wire in black is the ground wire. White: The wire in white is used for positive data (D+).

C. The Type-C connector was designed to enhance smaller device design and is physically smaller than previous USB connectors; openings are approximately 8.4mm by 2.6mm. This connector has come a long way from its ancestor with four wires.

D. A pink switch would be positive when the circuit is closed. White or gray neutral conductors are used in the commercial sector.

16 / 22

Q. What are the 4 wires in a USB cable?

A. The red wire is a positive power wire with 5 volts of DC power, the black wire is the ground wire (similar to most all electronic devices), the white wire is a "positive" data wire, and the green wire is a "negative" data wire.

B. 4 different USB wire colors: white and green, which carry data, and red and black, which are used for power. Red carries 5 volts and acts as the positive wire, while black is the negative wire, otherwise known as the ground wire.

C. USB cable has four conductors, two for power and two for data. The data wires are 28 AWG, the power wires are 20 to 28 AWG. The power cores are un-twisted, and the data lines twisted. Longer cables will use 20 AWG for power.

D. All The Above.

17 / 22

Q. Can I extend a USB cable with Cat5?

A. A simple way of extending USB is by using extension cables. USB extension cables are useful for extending devices over shorter distances and typically max out at around 3m in length. An alternative to standard 'passive' USB extension cables is a USB Active Extension cable.

B. One option would be to get a USB over Cat5 extender. These devices use Cat5e or Cat6 cable to extend your USB devices to distances of around 50 to 60 meters (around 150 to 200 feet).

C. Due to its design, USB cable has a normal maximum length of about 5 meters (16.4 feet), but you can get longer distances by using an active USB extension cable from Monoprice!

D. Due to its design, USB cable has a normal maximum length of about 5 meters (16.4 feet), but you can get longer distances by using an active USB extension cable from Monoprice!

18 / 22

Q. How long can a USB cable be and still work?

A. USB Specification USB 1.0 (Full Speed) Max. Data Transfer Rate 12 Mb/s Recommended Cable Length 3 m (9 ft.), USB Specification USB 2.0 (High Speed) Max. Data Transfer Rate 480 Mb/s Recommended Cable Length 5 m (16 ft.), USB Specification USB 3.2 Gen Max. Data Transfer Rate 1 5 Gb/s Recommended Cable Length 2-3 m (6-9 ft.), USB Specification USB 3.2 Gen 2 Max. Data Transfer Rate 10 Gb/s Recommended Cable Length 3 m (9 ft.).

B. Cable Type USB 2.0 USB Passive Cable Length Limit 5 m (16.4 ft) USB Passive Cable Length Limit (Newnex Custom Solutions)*10 m (32.8 ft), Cable Type USB 3.0/3.1 Gen 1 USB Passive Cable Length Limit 2 m (6.6 ft) USB Passive Cable Length Limit (Newnex Custom Solutions)*5 m (16.4 ft), Cable Type USB 3.1 Gen 2 USB Passive Cable Length Limit 1 m (3.3 ft) USB Passive Cable Length Limit (Newnex Custom Solutions)* 1 m (3.3 ft).

C. When you tell us 20 feet, we will immediately know the issue: the cable is too long. The USB 2.0 specification limits the length of a cable between USB 2.0 devices (full-speed or hi-speed) to 5 meters (or about 16 feet and 5 inches).

D. The quality of these extenders depends on their ability to carry the signal over large distances. Sometimes these extenders do not perform as advertised. They might slow down the communication speed or fail it altogether.

19 / 22

Q. What is the difference between smart homes and smart buildings?

A. Smart Lighting. With smart lighting you can walk into your home and say “Alexa, I am home” and program which lights you would like to turn on once that is said, smart Plug, the smart plug is a great way to start turning your home into a smart home, and your smart thermostat.

B. Difference is that in smart buildings the focus is more on local IT solutions. The BMS (Building Management System) is largely 'analog' and not necessarily interactive or remotely controllable. A smart home is more likely to be fully 'digital' and remotely controllable via the Internet.

C. Smart building or home becomes smart through its connected and intelligent devices that are placed inside of it, for example heating, ventilation and air conditioning, elevators, access control, lighting, energy supply, or water heating systems.

D. Smart buildings are more at risk from cyber-attacks than legacy buildings. Those with malicious intents can cause chaos with connected buildings by interrupting systems or by harvesting personal data about those within. ... Many internet-connected building systems are unsafe as they use legacy methods.

20 / 22

Q. What is the difference between smart homes and smart buildings?

21 / 22

Q. Is Wired faster than Wi-Fi 6?

A. No.

B. Theoretically, Wi-Fi 6 could be faster than Ethernet. But it's unlikely you'll actually experience faster speeds than Ethernet with Wi-Fi 6. Compared to the latest Wi-Fi 6 standard (802.11ax), a 1 Gbps Ethernet connection seems extremely slow at first glance.

C. When compared to Wi-Fi 6, the standard ethernet cables have - until now - provided the fastest form of internet connectivity. In real world testing, Wi-Fi 6's single stream speed has been raised to 1.2 Gbps - 20% faster than connecting via gigabit ethernet.

D. An Ethernet connection is generally faster than a WiFi connection and provides greater reliability and security.

E. With modern Ethernet connections you can get speeds of up to 1 Gigabit per second. That's more than three times the speed of the fastest Wi-Fi connections out there.

F. Yes.

22 / 22

Q. How do I integrate smart home devices?

A. You can mix and match throughout your entire home, fitting each individual light with the most appropriate smart light option.

B. You can integrate most (if not all) of your smart home devices with your voice assistant, and then control them with your voice instead of a touch screen interface, by saying things like “turn the bedroom lights on”, “set the thermostat to 75”, and “lock all the doors.”

C. App is available for iPhone, iPad, or Android. The Google Home app allows you to create rooms in your home, and you can place smart devices in them. You can turn on or off all the lights in a room at once, create handy routines, and control everything with Google Assistant.

D. Most app based smart devices work by connecting your Home-Automation devices to your home network via Wi-Fi. Those devices connect to a severer somewhere, which you then access through apps on your smart device.

E. All The Above.

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INSULATION IN BUILDINGS

Created on April 17, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Insulation Certification

Insulation Technicians may hone their skills in a wide range of techniques, all technicians are Am-Cat certified.

1 / 10

Q. What is the best way to insulate a crawl space?

A. Crawl space insulation, as a part of overall home air sealing and insulation, helps maintain your entire home's energy efficiency. Without insulation, heat and cool air are easily lost through the floor. Insulation also helps to preserve the air quality and reduce energy costs.

B. Foam based insulation as the best insulation for crawl spaces because it creates an air barrier. This means spray foam is the best floor insulation, so you won't need to wear extra pairs of socks.

C. Install the insulation with the paper vapor barrier facing up toward the heated living space, and make sure the insulation fits tightly between the joists. Hold the insulation in place from below using insulation support wires, or by stapling chicken wire to the bottom of the joists.

D. Crawl spaces should have their floors uninsulated, ground fog and air sealed, walls insulated and air-conditioned with indoor air. You may find no insulation at all if your home is built before 1990. The U.S. Dept. of Energy currently suggests insulation with an R-value of at least R-9 in floors.

2 / 10

Q. Is it worth it to insulate roof?

A. Give or take, about 25% of the heat produced by your boiler will escape through the roof of your home. About 35% of the heat will escape through the walls and through gaps, in and around windows and doors, and about 10% of heat will disappear through the floor.

B. Installing attic insulation this winter is a worthwhile long-term investment because it can significantly decrease your heating bills. As an added benefit, when the hot D.C. temperatures come back, the attic insulation will also minimize your air conditioning bills.

C. Rolls of foam insulation are cheap, says Brennand, and three rolls of 8in deep foam should be enough to give most lofts an important layer of protection. Mineral wool (such as Rockwool or Rocksil), glass fibre and recycled paper products all work well, according to the NEF.

D. An uninsulated flat roof has a U-Value of around 1.5 W/m2K. When insulating one, you're aiming for a value of 0.25 W/m2K or less. To achieve this, you should insulate your flat roof with insulation boards totalling around 150mm thickness.

3 / 10

Q. What is the best way to insulate under a wooden floor?

A. The majority of heat loss occurs through the roof. However, some 10 to 20 percent of heat loss is due to your floor. We do not take it into account the draughts coming up through the floor. So, if you are wondering is it worth insulating under floorboards.

B. Fibrous insulation such as mineral wool or sheep's wool performs best between timber because it will take up thermal movement and cut down air movement around the insulation. 'Thermal bypass' affects performance, so cutting out draughts is preferable.

C. A layer of dense foam padding under the laminate can help warm up the floor. In slab situations, raising the subfloor off the concrete with a layer of plywood over sleeper strips before installing the surface flooring can also make it warmer on the feet.

D. You only need to insulate the ground floor. If you're on an upper floor, you don't usually need to insulate your floor space. However, you should consider insulating any floors that are above unheated spaces such as garages, as you could be losing a lot of heat through those.

4 / 10

Q. How do you insulate a finished floor?

A. Use Weather Strips, weather strips are an inexpensive way to seal doors and windows in your home, install New Door Sweeps, apply Foam Tape, insulate with Window Film, hang Insulated Curtains, re-Caulk Windows and Doors, use a door snake.

B. Repair, replace or add new weatherstripping, get a window draft stopper, Cover cracks with nail polish, Wrap the windows with film, reglaze the windowpanes, use interior storm windows or inserts.

C. When installing insulation on top of the concrete floor, the most common method of installation is as follows. Lay the damp proof membrane onto the concrete, followed by the insulation. Then lay moisture-resistant chipboard, or a concrete screed to the top, which can then be covered by the flooring to finish.

D. Cover Floor with Vapor Barrier. Cover the entire floor with a vapor barrier, such as 6 mm polyethylene sheeting, measure and Create Furring Strips, measure 16 inches from the face of one wall, cut the Insulation, cut rigid foam insulation to fit snugly between each sleeper, cover the Insulation.

5 / 10

Q. How do you insulate windows with insulation?

A. Use window insulation films, window film creates an insulating barrier between the interior of your apartment and your windows.

B. Cover your windows with bubble wrap.

C. Install removable magnetic window insulation.

D. Use rope caulk to seal cracks.

E. Add thermal curtains to your windows.

F. All The Above.

6 / 10

Q. What insulation do you put around windows?

A. The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include cellulose, fiberglass, and mineral (rock or slag) wool. All of these materials are produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose is primarily made from recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass products contain 40% to 60% recycled glass.

B. Thermograms of mechanical systems can detect the heat created by excessive friction. Energy assessors use thermography as a tool to help detect heat losses and air leakage in building envelopes. Infrared scanning allows energy assessors to check the effectiveness of insulation in a building's construction.

C. The interior ceilings, walls and floors in your home should feel warm and dry. When drywall and paneling inside a home feels damp or cold, there is not enough insulation. Alternatively, when touching an exterior wall, it should feel cold because insulation is keeping warm air inside a home.

D. Unless damaged, insulation can last 80 to 100 years in most houses before it needs to be replaced. However, insulation can start falling from fiberglass batts after 15 to 20 years, so if your insulation was installed in batts well over a decade ago, it might be time for an inspection or a home energy audit.

7 / 10

Q. How do I know if my house is not insulated?

A. 14-15° - If your home is this cold, you may be diminishing your resistance to respiratory diseases. 18° is the recommended nighttime bedroom temperature. 19-21° is the recommended daytime temperature range for occupied rooms.

8 / 10

Q. What happens if you don't have insulation?

A. Insulation helps regulate the temperature in your home. When you don't have sufficient insulation, there's nothing to keep your heated or cooled air inside where it belongs. As a result, you and your family are always uncomfortable, either too cold in the winter or too hot in the summer.

B. It's essential to have insulation on the interior walls of your home to have effective temperature regulation. A lack of insulation can lead to extreme temperatures during the hot and cold months of the year and issues with moisture, plumbing, and electrical appliances.

C. The idea of insulation is based on energy efficiency. A home without insulation will suffer from poor thermal performance, thereby increasing utility bills and placing a strain on HVAC systems, household budgets, and the environment.

D. The roof and windows are the hottest, showing that most heat is lost from the house through those parts. Heat energy is transferred from homes by conduction through the walls, floor, roof and windows. It is also transferred from homes by convection.

9 / 10

Q. What are three reasons to insulate?

A. Shoreline structures are built to alter the effects of ocean waves, currents and sand movement.They are usually built to "protect" buildings that were built on a beach that is losing sand. Sometimes they are built to redirect rivers and streams. Other times they are constructed to shelter boats in calm water.

B. Three primary functions to a room Air Conditioner. First is to cool a specific area, such as a room, not an entire home. The second is to dehumidify, to remove moisture out of the air, so you're not sitting in a cold, clammy environment. The third function is to filter the air within the home.

C. Save energy. With home heating costs increasing over 40% during the last twelve years, one of the best ways to stay ahead of the curve when it comes to rising energy costs is to insulate your home, improve comfort, prevent ice dams.

D. Enhanced speed, lack of interference, increased security, and the ability to connect systems across long distances.

10 / 10

Q. Why is insulation necessary?

A A home without insulation will suffer from poor thermal performance, thereby increasing utility bills and placing a strain on HVAC systems, household budgets, and the environment.

B. rafts and pockets of colder air near the floor; The walls are colder and don't emit the usual amount of infrared radiation, so you lose heat due to your body emitting more IR than it receives; You may spend more time indoors and hence have less physical activity, so your body generates less heat.

C. Insulation will help you keep the desired temperature in your house all year round, protecting it against cold in winter and excess heat in summer. Insulation is also useful to reduce noise pollution. A well-insulated house is very energy efficient and will need very little additional heating and cooling.

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DRYWALL INSTILLATION IN BUILDING

Created on April 18, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Drywall Installer Certification

Drywall installers and Mud and Tapers and sanders trades may hone their skills in a wide range of techniques, all Installers are Am-Cat certified.

1 / 19

Q. Do you need to seal joint compound?

A. It makes a good base for paint or wallpaper but must be properly sealed because the paper covering, and the tape and joint compound used to seal seams have different porosity. Not sealing drywall with primer paint will result in splotches and irregularities in the finish paint.

B. The first coat of joint compound usually dries to create a slight depression and you need to reapply it to fill the imperfections completely. After the wall is smooth and the joint compound is dry, it is important to prepare the wall before painting over the joint compound.

C. Joint compound is used by pros to fill in holes and patch cracks before painting walls. A patch of paint will flash if you paint directly over it, because the compound will suck moisture out of it, giving it a flat, dull appearance.

D. Pipe joint compound, also known as pipe dope, is a type of sealant used with any threaded pipe to help create a seal. Consisting of a mixture of substances, including kaolin clay, vegetable oil, rosin, and ethanol, pipe joint compound serves as both a lubricant and a sealant for threaded joints.

2 / 19

Q. Can I paint directly on joint compound?

A. A majority of spackling compounds are water-resistant, making them ideal for both brick repair indoors and outdoors. It is important to clean and dry the brick surface before spackling it so that the compound can adhere properly.

B. You may see acceptable results by using self-priming wall paint. Joint compound should generally be allowed to dry for 24 hours between coats and before sanding, painting or priming. High humidity levels and warm temperatures both increase drying times, however.

C. You need a high-solids primer to prevent bleed-through and uneven coloring. You should also prime drywall before hanging wallpaper on it. The primer seals the paper and joint compound so that the wallpaper glue doesn't soak in and dry out. A primer is also useful when you're repainting a wall that has a gloss coat.

D. Joint compound is used by pros to fill in holes and patch cracks before painting walls. A patch of paint will flash if you paint directly over it, because the compound will suck moisture out of it, giving it a flat, dull appearance.

3 / 19

Q, What happens if you don't prime drywall?

A. At the far end, drywall mud, also known as joint compound, needs to dry for 24 hours between each coat and before sanding, priming, and painting. The 24-hour drying time recommendation can be applied to nearly all factors.

B. Because it has a glue-like base, drywall primer helps the paint adhere properly. If you skip priming, you’ll risk peeling paint, especially in humid conditions. Moreover, the lack of adhesion could make cleaning more difficult months after the paint has dried.

C. When it's dry, the mud will appear white and will be hard when you touch it. Scrape the edge of your knife over the area lightly to take down any ridges. Now, apply another layer of mud going out a few inches further than the first coat. This is called feathering and it will help hide the patch.

D. You need a high-solids primer to prevent bleed-through and uneven coloring. You should also prime drywall before hanging wallpaper on it. The primer seals the paper and joint compound so that the wallpaper glue doesn't soak in and dry out. A primer is also useful when you're repainting a wall that has a gloss coat.

E. B & D.

4 / 19

Q. How many coats of drywall mud do I need?

A. Pipe joint compound, also known as pipe dope, is a type of sealant used with any threaded pipe to help create a seal. Consisting of a mixture of substances, including kaolin clay, vegetable oil, rosin, and ethanol, pipe joint compound serves as both a lubricant and a sealant for threaded joints.

B. If your wall has distinct crevices, cracks, or textured areas, or if your brand of drywall mud isn't offering enough coverage, you may have to do a couple of additional coats of compound. However, in general, you'll need one coat to fill in the seams and three more coats after taping.

5 / 19

Q. Can you prime over damp drywall mud?

A. No, Joint compound should generally be allowed to dry for 24 hours between coats and before sanding, painting or priming. High humidity levels and warm temperatures both increase drying times, however.

B. Yes, all you have to do is skim coat over the areas. You may have to do more than one coat and sand in between and on the last coat once it is dry. If you do skim coat it and sand it, make sure you prime it first before painting. Skim coat will soak up the primer like new drywall.

C. If your wall has distinct crevices, cracks, or textured areas, or if your brand of drywall mud isn't offering enough coverage, you may have to do a couple of additional coats of compound. However, in general, you'll need one coat to fill in the seams and three more coats after taping.

D. There are workarounds to avoid taping and mudding your drywall, such as using molding, chair rails, or quarter round to cover seams in your drywall. However, these methods are typically more time-consuming and expensive than using tape and mud to finish your walls.

6 / 19

Q. Do you have to mud drywall before priming?

A. Scour the paint with a fine, 280-grit sandpaper, before you apply the drywall mud. Once the paint feels slightly rough to the touch, it will accept the fresh drywall mud.

B. Before applying your primer, take a black cloth and go over the surface to make sure no dust is left behind. A: No, after you are done hanging your drywall, you need to make sure that you mud and primer it before applying any coat of paint.

C. Drywall mud covers the seams where pieces of drywall meet. This protects your wiring and the structural supports in your wall from debris and moisture. Sealing your drywall also inhibits pest insects and rodents from invading your walls.

D. Drywall mud will stick to primer. So, if you have a slick wall surface, like satin or semi-gloss, you can use a coat of primer over top of it to create a surface for the joint compound to stick to. You can even skim coat over primer.

7 / 19

Q. How thick should drywall be for walls?

A. Drywall should definitely not touch concrete as moisture will wick (ie flow up the surface as in a candle/lamp wick) into the drywall and encourage mold growth. 3/8" should be sufficient - your prop up plan is not only appropriate, but a common technique used by drywallers.

B. Drywall is a flat panel made of gypsum plaster sandwiched in between two sheets of thick paper. It adheres to metal or wood studs using nails or screws. Sheetrock is a specific brand of drywall sheet. These terms are often used interchangeably.

C. The most common thickness of drywall used in residential interior construction is 1/2 inch. This material is recommended for walls with studs placed 16 inches on center. If the wall studs are placed 24 inches on center, a 5/8-inch drywall is recommended.

D. Use 220-grit sandpaper and sand the areas with a light and easy touch. Avoid using coarse sandpaper below 100 grit as that may damage the drywall.

8 / 19

Q. How many screws go into a sheet of drywall?

A. 20 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 30 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

B. 18 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 26 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

C. 38 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 46 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

D. 28 screws are needed for attaching a 4-by-8 sheet of drywall. If it's 4-by-12, it'll take about 36 screws. When screwing drywall sheets (4-by-8) to the studs vertically, use four screws, and start at the top.

9 / 19

Q. How far should drywall be off the ceiling?

A. This is when the inside of your house starts to look like a house, with the drywall and most of the carpentry completed, expect about two months of finish work.

B. Drywall screws should be placed 12 to 16 inches apart, but the distance can vary. Place screws eight inches apart on edges and ceiling edges, and no more than 12 inches apart on the ceiling field. Screws are the most secure and efficient way to hang drywall.

C. Drywall should definitely not touch concrete as moisture will wick (ie flow up the surface as in a candle/lamp wick) into the drywall and encourage mold growth. 3/8" should be sufficient - your prop up plan is not only appropriate, but a common technique used by drywallers.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

10 / 19

Q. What comes first flooring or drywall?

A. When you're hanging drywall and installing new flooring, it's usually best to hang the drywall first and then save the floor for last.

B. As a rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

C. Although you can install drywall by yourself, the job will be much easier if you have a helper or two, especially if you are covering the ceiling.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

11 / 19

Q. Do you hang drywall top to bottom?

A. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

B. Although you can install drywall by yourself, the job will be much easier if you have a helper or two, especially if you are covering the ceiling.

C. As a general rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

D. When hanging the drywall on the walls, always hang the top sheet first. Raise a sheet tight to the ceiling and secure it with a drywall nail at the top and bottom at each stud.

12 / 19

Q. How many screws go into a 4x8 sheet of drywall?

A. The wall length and ceiling area must be calculated and staggering or not staggering the sheetrock may impact how many panels are needed to complete the job. Purpose – The type of finished job should be considered when hanging sheetrock.

B. Although you can install drywall by yourself, the job will be much easier if you have a helper or two, especially if you are covering the ceiling.

C. Use about 28-32 drywall screws per sheet of 4-foot by 8-foot drywall installed horizontally on a wall. This total is comprised of four screws on the five middle studs and six screws on each of the two sides.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

13 / 19

Q. Is putting up drywall hard?

A. As a general rule, for commercial buildings, drywall should be installed vertically. On the other hand, for residential buildings, it's best to install drywall horizontally to increase structural shear strength.

B. With patience, the right tools, and a friend to help you, hanging drywall is not very difficult. Once you've learned how to hang drywall, learn how to tape, and finish the installed drywall for professional-quality results. The joint work is easier than it seems and provides very satisfying results.

C. Your drywall should end on stud or be butted up in the center with another piece of drywall. Either cut your drywall or add more studs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 17-19" on center which sounds like about 3 studs per sheet. I have run into this with old houses.

D. The wall length and ceiling area must be calculated and staggering or not staggering the sheetrock may impact how many panels are needed to complete the job. Purpose – The type of finished job should be considered when hanging sheetrock.

14 / 19

Q. Should drywall touch the floor?

B. Drywall should never touch the floor. Allow for a 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) space between your new wall and your old flooring, so there is room for expansion of both materials without cracking the drywall.

15 / 19

Q. How is drywall attached to the wall?

A. However, during installation, be diligent about keeping that 1/8-inch space between sheets by using a guide. The blade of a drywall square is about 1/8-inch-thick and does the trick. Thin strips of wood can also be used as spacing guides.

B. On walls, use drywall nails or screws to attach drywall panels (“Sheetrock®”) to studs and top and bottom plates. Panel joints should be centered against ceiling joists or wall studs and staggered, so they don't align with adjacent joints.

C. The wall length and ceiling area must be calculated and staggering or not staggering the sheetrock may impact how many panels are needed to complete the job. Purpose – The type of finished job should be considered when hanging sheetrock.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

16 / 19

Q. Do you drywall ceiling or walls first?

A. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

B. Your drywall should end on stud or be butted up in the center with another piece of drywall. Either cut your drywall or add more studs. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 17-19" on center which sounds like about 3 studs per sheet. I have run into this with old houses.

D. Hang drywall on the ceiling first, then the walls. Check the ceiling for bowed joists using a 4-ft. level.

17 / 19

Q. What tools are needed to put up drywall?

A. Wire strippers, insulated screwdrivers, insulated pliers, electrical tape, hacksaws, cable cutters, spanners, and a voltage tester.

B. Pipe wrench, basin wrench, adjustable wrench, faucet key, pipe Work, hacksaw, tube and plastic pipe cutters, plumber's torch, and thread sealing tape.

C. Drywall knife, a drywall knife is one of the first items that your teams should be putting together when getting ready to go out on a job, drywall lifts, jab saw, electric drywall saw, utility knife, T-square, tape measure, and a dust Mask.

D. Battery Powered/Cordless Drill. One tool that is an absolute must is a cordless drill, electrical Testers/Multimeter, reciprocating Saw, tape Measure (25-footer), step Ladder, hammer, extension Cord (50-footer), and screw Drivers.

18 / 19

Q. Should I use #6 or #8 drywall screws?

A. Butt joints have no recess, so you have to build up a layer of mud that's thin enough and wide enough to blend into the surrounding flat surface. When it comes to finishing drywall, the hardest part of the job is usually the butt joints—the joints formed where two non-tapered ends of drywall meet.

B. Drywall only, please: Don't use drywall screws for sub-floors, tile backing or other non-drywall applications. These denser materials can break the smaller #6 screw during installation. Use a #8 or larger for these jobs.

C. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

D. Use 220-grit sandpaper and sand the areas with a light and easy touch. Avoid using coarse sandpaper below 100 grit as that may damage the drywall.

19 / 19

Q. What are the two types of seams between drywall sheets?

A. Lightweight joint compound weighs less than regular and offers lower shrinkage. After applying any type of joint compound, it must dry before sanding it. When sanding it, lightweight compound is easier to sand than regular. It is used for all drywall needs, including covering joints, corner beads, fasteners, and trim.

B. When installing drywall flat against a stud, there are two types of drywall joints, or seams, you can make: the butt joint or the tapered joint. In many cases, the type of joint you use is dictated by the application. But in a few instances, you may have a choice between butt and tapered joints.

C. You can use paper or mesh tape to finish the joints. Mesh tape is usually self-adhesive and can go right on the joints. For paper, you will need to apply a thin coat of mud to the joint, apply the tape, and press into place with the drywall knife.

D. Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor. This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. It also helps prevents moisture wicking if the floor floods.

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FINISHED CARPENTRY IN BUILDINGS

Created on April 18, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Finish Carpentry Certification

Finish carpenters trades may hone their skills in a wide range of techniques, all finish carpenters are Am-Cat certified.

1 / 23

Q. What are the two types of carpentry?

A. Rough: Here, the carpenter focuses on the “rough” framing of a building - that is, the walls, rafters, floors, posts, beams, and roof.

B. Repair: cover destruction and damage to a residence's interior and exterior, the loss or theft of possessions, and personal liability for harm to others. Three basic levels of coverage exist: actual cash value, replacement cost, and extended replacement cost/value.

C. Finish: With finish work, the carpenter focuses on flooring, staircases, moldings, trims, etc.

D. Replace: carpentry rebuild your home to how it was before a catastrophic event.

E. B & C

F. A & B

G. A & D

H. A & C

I. B & D

2 / 23

Q. Can I become a carpenter at forty?

A. The job of a construction framer is to build the framing for a residential or commercial structure. As a framer, your duties are to read blueprints or architectural schematics and construct the building's framework according to the plans. You may also repair old woodwork on building frames.

B. Having, math skills, because carpenters use basic math skills to calculate accurate measurements when building structures, physical strength, communication, attention to detail, problem solving, dexterity, mechanical skills, and get real comfortable with measuring.

C. If you can do all of this tasks Roofing 80% Drywall 78% Brick Masonry 72% Painting 60% Rough Carpentry 51% Siding 32% Plumbing 15% Electric 14% Finish carpentry 12% / master carpenter HVAC 8% Other 12% * includes concrete, tile, landscaping, demolition.

D. Being forty is not too old to be a carpenter. The biggest things they look for when hiring candidates are the attitude and enthusiasm toward the job. They have the tendency to employ a forty-year-old than a teen. If you are reliable and work hard, you have the best chance of getting hired.

3 / 23

Q. What is a master carpenter?

A. Having, math skills, because carpenters use basic math skills to calculate accurate measurements when building structures, physical strength, communication, attention to detail, problem solving, dexterity, mechanical skills, and get real comfortable with measuring.

B. A master carpenter is an advanced woodworker who possesses the skills needed to perform any task related to carpentry. Some of these tasks include the cutting, shaping and installation of building materials. A master carpenter should be a master of their trade.

C. The job of a construction framer is to build the framing for a residential or commercial structure. As a framer, your duties are to read blueprints or architectural schematics and construct the building's framework according to the plans. You may also repair old woodwork on building frames.

D. Roofing 80% Drywall 78% Brick Masonry 72% Painting 60% Rough Carpentry 51% Siding 32% Plumbing 15% Electric 14% Finish carpentry 12% / master carpenter HVAC 8% Other 12% * includes concrete, tile, landscaping, demolition.

4 / 23

Q. What falls under rough carpentry?

A. Roofing 80% Drywall 78% Brick Masonry 72% Painting 60% Rough Carpentry 51% Siding 32% Plumbing 15% Electric 14% Finish carpentry 12% HVAC 8% Other 12% * * includes concrete, tile, landscaping, demolition.

B. Rough carpentry focuses on the framing of a building. This means the carpenters are responsible for the wood or metal support systems that make up a structure's walls, flooring, and roof. Think of the frame as the building's skeleton.

C. A block installed behind the crown molding at the junction of the ceiling and wall and nailed to the wall framing provides a solid nailing surface for crown molding.

D. Having, math skills, because carpenters use basic math skills to calculate accurate measurements when building structures, physical strength, communication, attention to detail, problem solving, dexterity, mechanical skills, and get real comfortable with measuring.

5 / 23

Q. Why is carpentry so hard?

A. Crown molding is a decorative finishing element that's normally used for capping cabinets, columns, and, most often, interior walls at the point where the wall meets the ceiling. It's only used at the top of a room, thus the term “crown” is used to describe the embellishment of a space.

B. Learning to be an Electrician is more difficult than learning to be a Plumber. A Plumber job, on the other hand, is more physically demanding. A Plumber earns less than an Electrician. An Electrician makes more money than a Plumber.

C. Carpentry can be hard heavy work as it often involves lots of lifting and serious manual labor, so yes becoming and staying a carpenter can be very hard. Carpentry can be hard heavy work as it often involves lots of lifting and serious manual labor, so yes becoming and staying a carpenter can be very hard.

D. The job of a construction framer is to build the framing for a residential or commercial structure. As a framer, your duties are to read blueprints or architectural schematics and construct the building's framework according to the plans. You may also repair old woodwork on building frames.

6 / 23

Q. What is the difference between a trim carpenter and a finish carpenter?

A. Also called “finish carpenters” because their work adds the final touches to new construction and remodeling projects, trim carpenters represent the upper end of the carpenter career ladder, both skill-wise and salary-wise.

B. The job of a construction framer is to build the framing for a residential or commercial structure. As a framer, your duties are to read blueprints or architectural schematics and construct the building's framework according to the plans. You may also repair old woodwork on building frames.

C. Having, math skills, because carpenters use basic math skills to calculate accurate measurements when building structures, physical strength, communication, attention to detail, problem solving, dexterity, mechanical skills, and get real comfortable with measuring.

D. Most experts recommend putting crown molding in the centralized rooms of the house (like the kitchen, living room, family room, and dining room), however, the bedroom is also a great place to utilize it. It's a great way to increase the sophistication of your bedroom's design without adding clutter.

7 / 23

Q. Do finish carpenters install cabinets?

B. After you have nailed the crown molding to the ceiling, you may notice a gap between the ceiling and the crown moulding. You can minimize the appearance of the gap by simply squeezing in some silicone caulk between the moulding and the ceiling.

C. Here is a selection of duties that a finish carpenter might be responsible for on a job site: Building and installing cabinets, such as kitchen cabinets and under-stair cabinets. Install wainscoting, baseboards, door trim, and other final touches. Building and installing stair railings.

D. Crown molding is a decorative finishing element that's normally used for capping cabinets, columns, and, most often, interior walls at the point where the wall meets the ceiling. It's only used at the top of a room; thus, the term “crown” is used to describe the embellishment of a space.

8 / 23

Q. Does chair rail have to match baseboards?

A. One sculpted area is typically more compact and more detailed than the other end; the highest level of detail or sculpting goes on the bottom. The other part of the crown molding usually has one large curve or wave to it, and this end is the top.

B. After you have nailed the crown molding to the ceiling, you may notice a gap between the ceiling and the crown molding. You can minimize the appearance of the gap by simply squeezing in some silicone caulk between the molding and the ceiling.

C. Like many creative pursuits, interior design has guidelines, but no hard and fast rules. The typical trend is to match your chair rail and baseboard colors but playing with this trend the right way can also make a dramatic visual statement.

9 / 23

Q. What is standard height for chair rail?

A. It's true that the average chair rail height will be around 32 inches. However, they can be positioned anywhere from 24 to 72 inches from the floor, depending on the height of the walls and the proportions you're hoping to achieve.

B. It's true that the average chair rail height will be around 42 inches. However, they can be positioned anywhere from 34 to 82 inches from the floor, depending on the height of the walls and the proportions you're hoping to achieve.

C. It's true that the average chair rail height will be around 22 inches. However, they can be positioned anywhere from 14 to 62 inches from the floor, depending on the height of the walls and the proportions you're hoping to achieve.

D. It's true that the average chair rail height will be around 30 inches. However, they can be positioned anywhere from 22 to 70 inches from the floor, depending on the height of the walls and the proportions you're hoping to achieve.

10 / 23

Q. What kind of nails do you use for chair rail?

A. As for wood flooring fasteners, you'll use nails or staples. Staples are generally a cheaper choice of fastener, but 16-, 18-, or 20-gauge flooring nails or “cleats” are the choice of pros. They allow for wood flooring expansion and contraction, also providing great holding power.

B. Secure each piece with two 2-1/2-inch finishing nails in line with each other. When you're bringing two ends together in a miter joint, add extra wood glue at the joint, and complete the seam with two finishing nails into the studs. Use a nail set to recess the nail heads to achieve a smooth appearance.

C. The 16-Gauge Nailer is Versatile, carpenters use them for a wide variety of tasks including interior trim, baseboard, and crown. You can do stair risers with them, and they're a good option to nail down tongue and groove flooring like near a wall or in a closet where a flooring nailer won't work.

D. One sculpted area is typically more compact and more detailed than the other end; the highest level of detail or sculpting goes on the bottom. The other part of the crown molding usually has one large curve or wave to it, and this end is the top.

11 / 23

Q. Can you add coffered ceilings?

B. Add a touch of elegance and loads of dimension to your ceiling. By adding a coffered or box beam ceiling made of softwood lumber, you can make an often-overlooked area the focal point of your room.

C. Most experts recommend putting crown molding in the centralized rooms of the house (like the kitchen, living room, family room, and dining room), however, the bedroom is also a great place to utilize it. It's a great way to increase the sophistication of your bedroom's design without adding clutter.

D. A block installed behind the crown molding at the junction of the ceiling and wall and nailed to the wall framing provides a solid nailing surface for crown molding.

12 / 23

Q. How much does it cost to do a coffered ceiling?

A. A basic 150-square-foot build costs $3,750 on average. Expect to pay $25 per square foot depending on the material and design you choose. The square foot price includes labor and materials but does not cover extras, like trim, paint and finials.

B. Prices vary in every city and for each project, but homeowners typically spend $2 – $4 per square foot to install tray ceilings. In a new-construction home, you might spend $500 – $1,500 total per ceiling.

C. The average price is $1,325, or about $5.50 per square foot. Wainscoting can be as cheap as $1 per square foot if using MDF or plywood, or more than $40 per square foot if using an expensive solid wood.

D. To have a professional install crown molding, expect to pay between $4 and $15 per linear foot for materials and labor. A single room costs anywhere from $300 to $800, while a whole house installation costs between $3,200 and $12,000.

13 / 23

Q. Do carpenters do hardwood floors?

A. Clean job sites Installed siding, cabinets, roofing, windows, and doors.

B. In addition, as part of their job, carpenters saw, fit and assemble plywood, wallboard and many other materials. Within carpentry, floor layers install carpeting, hardwood flooring, decorative flooring, soft tiles and "linoleum type" products made of vinyl and rubber is the work of floor layers.

D. A block installed behind the crown molding at the junction of the ceiling and wall and nailed to the wall framing provides a solid nailing surface for crown molding.

14 / 23

Q. Do finish carpenters install doors?

A. A block installed behind the crown molding at the junction of the ceiling and wall and nailed to the wall framing provides a solid nailing surface for crown molding.

C. Finish carpentry encompasses all work done inside a house after framing, sheathing, wiring, plumbing, insulation, and drywall have been installed. This includes door and window installation and trim, fitting interior doors, wood and laminate flooring installation, wainscoting, crown molding and cabinet installation.

D. Step 1: set the First Panel, step 2: secure the wood panel. step 3: accommodate the wall outlets, step 4: install the second panel, step 5: add the panel up to a corner, step 6: out the corner panels, step 7: install the remaining panels, moulding, and wall plates.

15 / 23

Q. What does interior carpentry include?

A. Finish carpentry is a broad term encompassing every finished wooden surface inside a residential interior. This can include cabinets, doors, stairs, trim, flooring, windows, and many other items.

B. Crown is typically nailed up with a 2” finishing nail and a compressor and finishing gun. Outside corners are usually done with a brad nailer and 1” brad nails with glue. Studs are generally 3-1/2”, drywall a ½” and the crown molding a minimum of ½”; therefore 2” finishing nails are necessary.

C. After you have nailed the crown molding to the ceiling, you may notice a gap between the ceiling and the crown molding. You can minimize the appearance of the gap by simply squeezing in some silicone caulk between the moulding and the ceiling.

16 / 23

Q. What is the difference between a trim carpenter and a finish carpenter?

A. A block installed behind the crown molding at the junction of the ceiling and wall and nailed to the wall framing provides a solid nailing surface for crown molding.

B. The work of a finish carpenter shouldn't be confused with that of a trim carpenter, who typically works on moldings, door and window frames, baseboards, mantels and other such ornamental details and features. Don't mistake a finish carpenter for a cabinet maker, either. C. Most experts recommend putting crown molding in the

C. A combination of decorative boards or panels and moldings that extend partway up a wall's face, wainscoting is a centuries-old marriage of form and style.

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Q. How thick should wainscoting be?

A. The fastest and least expensive wainscot installation is the glue-and-nail method. You apply panel adhesive to hold the bead board in position and then nail it to the drywall with a fine finish nail or even a pneumatic pin nail.

B. A 5/8-inch-thick, 32-by-48-inch sheet with the contours of three raised panels pressed into the surface gets fastened to the wall above base molding and capped with a chair rail.

C. A combination of decorative boards or panels and moldings that extend partway up a wall's face, wainscoting is a centuries-old marriage of form and style.

D. Even in casual spaces, the crown should be a minimum of 4″ while formal spaces will need a crown of at least 9″. In some cases, you will want a full entablature (cornice + picture mold) that is up to 24″ in height

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Q. What kind of molding do you use for wainscotting?

C. The type of material used for wainscoting can be wood paneling, cope and stick panels, overlapping boards or applied moldings. Wainscoting can be as elegant and formal as a raised panel, or a simple as a flat panel with a chair rail. A chair rail is a horizontal molding attached to the wall above the wainscoting.

D. Crown molding can certainly be used to make ceilings look even higher. If you paint over the trim in the same color as the walls, the ceiling will seem to blend into the wall, and you won't notice the height as much. Thin trim can also make the ceiling line appear further away.

19 / 23

Q. Can carpenters do flooring?

A. Common jobs for carpenters include Fitting floors.

B. Carpenters construct, repair, and install building frameworks and structures made from wood and other materials. Work Environment. Carpenters work indoors and outdoors on many types of construction projects, from installing kitchen cabinets to building highways and bridges.

20 / 23

Q. Are framers considered carpenters?

A. In building construction, a framer is a carpenter who assembles the major structural elements of a wood-framed building called the framing. Framers build walls out of studs, sills, and headers; build floors from joists and beams; and frame roofs using ridge poles and rafters.

C. Framing carpenters build and repair structures made of wood or wood products. They typically begin work early in a project, constructing what becomes the framework for the rest of the building. Framing carpenters are part of the larger profession of carpentry, and are often simply referred to as carpenters.

21 / 23

Q. What goes on top of wainscoting?

A. Even in casual spaces, the crown should be a minimum of 4″ while formal spaces will need a crown of at least 9″. In some cases, you will want a full entablature (cornice + picture mold) that is up to 24″ in height

B. Apply construction adhesive to the back of the piece of trim and fit it to the wall, overlapping the top of the paneling. Use a nail gun or hammer and nail set to attach the chair-rail molding over top of the wainscoting.

C. Crown molding does not make a room look smaller — in most instances. Whether it does or doesn't depend largely upon how high your ceilings are and how wide the molding is. If the room is small and has normal or low ceilings, a 2- to 4-inch-width molding is appropriate.

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Q. What is the purpose of wainscoting?

B. For centuries, builders and homeowners have installed wainscoting to protect their walls from chair or table damage, scuff marks from footwear, and other damaging elements.

C. Crown molding can certainly be used to make ceilings look even higher. If you paint over the trim in the same color as the walls, the ceiling will seem to blend into the wall, and you won't notice the height as much. Thin trim can also make the ceiling line appear further away.

D. Crown molding does not make a room look smaller — in most instances. Whether it does or doesn't depends largely upon how high your ceilings are and how wide the molding is. If the room is small and has normal or low ceilings, a 2- to 4-inch-width molding is appropriate.

23 / 23

Q. Is siding considered carpentry?

A. Yes, the carpenters union in America used the term carpenter for a catch-all position. Tasks performed by union carpenters include installing "... flooring, windows, doors, interior trim, cabinetry, solid surface, roofing, framing, and siding

B. Vinyl Siding: 60+ years (warranties last between 20-40 years), fiber Cement Siding: 50+ years, stucco Siding: 50-80 years, depending on how it is backed, metal Siding: Up to 40 years, wood Siding: 20-40 years.

C. Common types of wood siding include wood planks, boards or panels, and shingles. Wood clapboard lap siding is one of the oldest types of house siding, and you can see its beauty in many historic homes. The main drawbacks of wood siding are its high cost and relatively high maintenance needs.

D. Wood siding in overlapping horizontal rows or "courses" is called clapboard, weatherboard (British English), or bevel siding which is made with beveled boards, thin at the top edge and thick at the butt. In colonial North America, Eastern white pine was the most common material.

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CABINET INSTILLATION IN BUILDINGS

Created on April 19, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Cabinets Installers Certification

Cabinet installers may hone their skills in a wide range of techniques, all Installers are Am-Cat certified.

1 / 14

Q. Do you put floor down before cabinets?

A. Wall cabinet is the term used to describe the top cabinetry that is suspended above the counter space, as opposed to the base cabinets that sit on the floor.

B. In most cases, given standard flooring heights, you will install the cabinets before the floor covering. The floor covering will be cut to size and almost butted up against the cabinets. A minimal gap should be left between the flooring and the cabinets, Typically, cabinets come before flooring.

C. Screws would penetrate about 1-1/2 in. into the stud, so should be safe. Even with shorter screws, you could still have problems, especially in older homes where pipes and wires may be closer to the stud surface and may not have nail guards.

D. Mainly it is a matter of cost and ease of installation. Most kitchen cabinets are built in standard sizes and, when mounted on the wall, they leave space up above which gives the installer some wiggle room when leveling the cabinets.

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Q. How far should kitchen cabinets be from the ceiling?

A. A general rule of thumb is for wall cabinets to be mounted so the bottom edge is 54 inches above the floor, which means that an 8-foot-tall ceiling creates 42 inches of available space for wall cabinets, while a 9-foot-tall ceiling has 54 available inches of Ceiling Height.

B. The screw should enter at least half the thickness of the bottom material, e.g., 3/4″ into a 2 x 4. The other factor is the screw's diameter, or gauge. Screws come in gauges 2 through 16. Most of the time you'll want to go with a #8 screw.

C. Cabinets hung securely from drywall dress up the wall. Hanging cabinets, yourself enables you to save a little money on the cabinet installation. Lower-cabinet installation is pretty straightforward; simply set the cabinets in their intended location and attach them to the wall or floor.

D. This pilot hole should be deep enough so that it penetrates the wood a distance of about one-half to two-thirds of the screw's threaded length. If you are planning to countersink the screw head, a third hole, equal to the diameter of the head, will be needed at the surface.

3 / 14

Q. Can a stove be next to a wall?

A. An outdoor cabinet with a full height door gives you the most possible storage for your outdoor kitchen. This style cabinet has adjustable shelves behind the door(s).

B. A stove can go beside a wall. Freestanding ranges do not require spacing between the back of the appliance and a back wall. On the other hand, it is recommended to have a few inches of space between the stove and a sidewall.

C. Attach the cabinets to the studs with at least two screws in each mounting rail, while attaching the cabinets to each other with at least four drywall screws. Once all cabinets are securely in place, trim off the exposed shims with a utility knife.

4 / 14

Q. How high should kitchen cabinets be from countertop?

A. The standard distance between the top of a kitchen counter and the bottom of the wall cabinets above it is 16 inches. For the average person, this distance is the ideal balance between plenty of space to work on the countertop and the ability to reach all of the shelves in the cabinet.

B. The standard distance between the top of a kitchen counter and the bottom of the wall cabinets above it is 18 inches. For the average person, this distance is the ideal balance between plenty of space to work on the countertop and the ability to reach all of the shelves in the cabinet.

C. The standard distance between the top of a kitchen counter and the bottom of the wall cabinets above it is 15 inches. For the average person, this distance is the ideal balance between plenty of space to work on the countertop and the ability to reach all of the shelves in the cabinet.

D. The standard distance between the top of a kitchen counter and the bottom of the wall cabinets above it is 20 inches. For the average person, this distance is the ideal balance between plenty of space to work on the countertop and the ability to reach all of the shelves in the cabinet.

E. The standard distance between the top of a kitchen counter and the bottom of the wall cabinets above it is 19 inches. For the average person, this distance is the ideal balance between plenty of space to work on the countertop and the ability to reach all of the shelves in the cabinet.

5 / 14

Q. Can I use drywall screws to hang cabinets?

A. Use a #8 x 1-5/8" screw to secure cabinets together. After you install all of your cabinets, it may be necessary to adjust the drawer fronts, so they are level and have the proper reveals.

B. The world's strongest bolt – in various highly-demanding critical fastener applications around the world where standard fasteners are simply inadequate.

C. With that in mind, drywall screws start out with a couple of strikes against them. Although it makes drywall screws a good choice for drywall, it makes them a poor choice for hanging cabinets.

D. Drill and countersink two holes in each of the mounting rails inside the cabinet and drive 2 1/2-inch cabinet screws through the holes. Check to make sure the cabinet is level front to back as well as side to side.

6 / 14

Q. How long should it take to install kitchen cabinets?

A. If there's a time crunch for the countertop template or if there are upper cabinets that get set on the finished countertop like an appliance garage, install the lower cabinets first. It can be done either way, but it's easier to set the uppers without the base cabinets in place.

B. Wall cabinet is the term used to describe the top cabinetry that is suspended above the counter space, as opposed to the base cabinets that sit on the floor.

C. A cabinet install normally takes two to three days. And countertops take an additional two weeks from template to install.

D. Attach the cabinets to the wall using No. 8 or No. 10 screws, approximately 3½ inches long. The best make of this screw that I've seen is the one by GRK.

7 / 14

Q. What is the average cost to install kitchen cabinets?

A. The average price is $1,325, or about $5.50 per square foot. Wainscoting can be as cheap as $1 per square foot if using MDF or plywood, or more than $40 per square foot if using an expensive solid wood.

B. A basic 150-square-foot build costs $3,750 on average. Expect to pay $25 per square foot depending on the material and design you choose. The square foot price includes labor and materials but does not cover extras, like trim, paint and finials.

C. Cabinet installation or replacement costs on average $5,356, with most homeowners spending between $1,827 and $8,972. Prices for semi-custom and fully custom installs for an average sized kitchen ranges from $13,000 to $30,000 or more.

8 / 14

Q. Are base cabinets attached to the floor?

A. Screws would penetrate about 1-1/2 in. into the stud, so should be safe. Even with shorter screws, you could still have problems, especially in older homes where pipes and wires may be closer to the stud surface and may not have nail guards.

B. Kitchen base cabinets are held in place by wood screws that penetrate down through the cabinet frame, through the particleboard underlay and into the plywood sub-floor. Base cabinets typically are installed without tops, drawers or doors.

C. Drill and countersink two holes in each of the mounting rails inside the cabinet and drive 2 1/2-inch cabinet screws through the holes. Check to make sure the cabinet is level front to back as well as side to side.

D. Use a #8 x 1-5/8" screw to secure cabinets together. After you install all of your cabinets, it may be necessary to adjust the drawer fronts so they are level and have the proper reveals.

9 / 14

Q. Where do you start when installing cabinets?

A. Step 1: set the First Panel, step 2: secure the wood panel. step 3: accommodate the wall outlets, step 4: install the second panel, step 5: add the panel up to a corner, step 6: out the corner panels, step 7: install the remaining panels, moulding, and wall plates.

B. Step 1: Inspect the new cabinets, Step 2: Locate high spots on the floor, Step 3: Mark the top of the base cabinets, Step 4: Mark bottom of wall cabinets. Step 5: Locate wall studs, Step 6: Select suitable hardware, Step 7: Begin corner installation, Step 8: Attach cabinets together.

10 / 14

Q. How much space should be between cabinet and wall?

A. screws would penetrate about 1-1/2 in. into the stud, so should be safe. Even with shorter screws, you could still have problems, especially in older homes where pipes and wires may be closer to the stud surface and may not have nail guards.

B. Minimally, use 4 fasteners in strong locations in each cabinet. To be safe, add more

C. The distance between the base cabinet (including kitchen countertops) and wall cabinet is normally between 18 and 20 inches. This is low enough to provide easy access to the wall cabinet contents for most people, and still have enough space to keep and use small appliances as well as use the workspace comfortably.

11 / 14

Q. How are kitchen cabinets attached to the wall?

A. The space between kitchen cabinets and the ceiling is called “Soffit”. A kitchen soffit is specifically a boxy shape designed to cover up pipes, wiring, and other mechanical or to fill the gap between the top cabinets and the ceiling.

B. In most kitchens, cabinets are attached with screws through either the drywall or plaster into the wood stud behind. An installer will first locate the stud, mark the cabinet for the screw location and then lift the cabinet in place and install the screw.

C. Use a 24-inch or longer carpenter's level as a straightedge to scribe the marks, to be sure they are vertical. A 24-inch-wide cabinet must cross at least one stud.

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Q. What size screws do you use to hang kitchen cabinets?

D. Attach the cabinets to the wall using No. 8 or No. 10 screws, approximately 3½ inches long. The best make of this screw that I've seen is the one by GRK.

13 / 14

Q. Is it hard to install kitchen cabinets yourself?

A. Drill and countersink two holes in each of the mounting rails inside the cabinet and drive 2 1/2-inch cabinet screws through the holes. Check to make sure the cabinet is level front to back as well as side to side.

B. The space between kitchen cabinets and the ceiling is called “Soffit”. A kitchen soffit is specifically a boxy shape designed to cover up pipes, wiring, and other mechanical or to fill the gap between the top cabinets and the ceiling.

D. Cabinet installations can range from simple to extremely difficult. Without seeing the plan of your kitchen and the cabinet layout, I can't say whether you'll be successful or not. I'll tell you right now that the odds are against you, but every now and then the long shot crosses the finish line first.

14 / 14

Q. Do you install upper or lower cabinets first?

A. Attach the cabinets to the wall using No. 8 or No. 10 screws, approximately 3½ inches long. The best make of this screw that I've seen is the one by GRK.

B. If there's a time crunch for the countertop template or if there are upper cabinets that get set on the finished countertop like an appliance garage, install the lower cabinets first. It can be done either way, but it's easier to set the uppers without the base cabinets in place.

D. When installing kitchen cabinets, it's easiest to install the upper wall cabinets first; this way, the base cabinets are not in your way during the necessary lifting and fastening.

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TILE & COUNTERTOP INSTILLATION

Created on May 21, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Tile & Countertop Installer Certification

Countertop Installers may hone their skills in a wide range of Techniques, all Installer are Am-Cat Tile & Countertop Certified.

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Q. What do you put under tile countertops?

A. For Tile. The standard requirement for ceramic tile or natural stone tile installations is 3/4-inch plywood under a 1/4-inch concrete or fiberboard. Tile counter tops require the thickest types of plywood in comparison to all other types of finish materials.

B. The secret to a solid foundation for tile is to bond the cement board to the plywood below. Mix up a batch of latex-fortified (check the label) thin-set mortar to a soft, mashed potato consistency. Trowel it onto the plywood with a 1/4-in. notched trowel and then embed the cement board right into the mortar.

C. Install cement board along the counter edges, score and snap thin strips of cement board and embed them into thin-set mortar along the edges.

D. Plywood and the flooring to which it is attached must be at least 1 1/8 inch thick to support the weight of thin-set and tiles. Only exterior-approved plywood will support the weight; interior plywood and particleboard do not have the same strength and will buckle under the tiles.

2 / 17

Q. Does backsplash tile touch your countertop?

A. Make a mark directly in the middle of the wall above the countertop. This is where you will center the first tile to start the backsplash project. If the countertop is tiled, locate the tile that is in the middle of the counter and use that as your starting point.

B. It's essential to use caulk where the backsplash meets the kitchen counter, as well as at the top and edges of the backsplash. This prevents water from seeping in between your tile and the wall or trickling in behind your countertop. Water that infiltrates your wall in this way can cause mold, rot, and damage.

C. Kitchen backsplash tile installations need a solid support beneath the bottom row. This is no problem when installing a backsplash over a countertop, but when you tile behind appliances, such as your range, there's no counter for support.

D. To prepare the granite for the backsplash, begin by caulking this gap between the granite and the wall. This will provide a solid surface where the backsplash mortar cannot go, while providing the granite a stable seat against the wall.

3 / 17

Q. How thick should a Bar top be?

A. In order to determine how many stools will fit at your kitchen island, home experts recommend you allow 28 to 30 inches for each seating space, which means you can divide the length of your island's counter by 30 to to figure out how many stools will comfortably fit.

B. Commercial bar tops vary from 20- to 28-inches in width, including a drink rail (or trough) on the server side of the bar. Drink rails are typically 3/4-inch deep by 4-inches wide. The minimum bar top thickness is 1 3/4-inches utilizing a flat grain wood.

C. If you have a smaller room to work with, you can go with the minimum overhang of about 8 inches. You will want to find a good balance between not taking up too much space and still having enough room for people to sit.

D. A typical overhang for a comfortable seating area should be around 25-30cm (10-12”), this should leave enough knee room and adequate space between the countertop edge and the person seated. Therefore, as the depth of the overhang increases, so does the comfort and usability of the bar.

4 / 17

Q. What goes first countertop or backsplash?

A. Before you can lay the tile for your countertop, you must prepare the surface. Tile adheres most effectively to construction or exterior-grade plywood that is cut to fit your countertop. For added protection, top the plywood with a sheet of plastic that serves as a moisture barrier and a cement board top layer.

B. A countertop needs to be installed before the backsplash is put on the walls above the countertop.

C. Underlayment is something you put on top of your substrate to prepare it for tiling. The substrate (or subfloor) is the ground, whether it's made of plywood or cement. Cement board or backer board are the most standard underlayment’s. They come in various thicknesses for different spaces.

D. For Tile. The standard requirement for ceramic tile or natural stone tile installations is 3/4-inch plywood under a 1/4-inch concrete or fiberboard. Tile counter tops require the thickest types of plywood in comparison to all other types of finish materials.

5 / 17

Q. Can you use MDF for countertops?

A. Fasten your countertop supports to weak supporting structure and expect them to hold up your counter. Use wimpy fasteners to attach your support brackets. Leave raw steel brackets unpainted as they will rust over time. Use inadequate aluminum or thin gauge shelf brackets to support your countertops.

B. MDF is appropriate for many applications, from cabinetry to molding and is great for countertops because it is smooth uniform, and less prone to warping. MDF has many advantages over plywood, particleboard, or high-density fiberboard.

C. An unsupported span of 24” and up to a maximum of 36” is acceptable if the stone is supported on both sides of the span. Longer spans must be supported across the span. Over hangs should be not exceed 6” for 2cm granite, 10" for 3cm granite and 15" for 3cm quartz beyond the supported area.

D. Solid Surface countertops can overhang 6 inches without additional support (e.g., plywood decking). 3 cm Quartz (engineered stone) can handle a 14-inch overhangs and 3 cm Granite overhangs should not exceed a 10-inch overhang without additional support.

6 / 17

Q. How much should a breakfast bar overhang?

A. A standard countertop usually has an overhang of 1½ inches. Although some countertops may have a longer or shorter overhang, this number is generally the standard length for an overhang in homes. When utilizing an overhang for kitchen islands, the standard amount of overhang is typically 12 inches.

B. When it comes to a breakfast bar overhang, the standard size for this should be 18 inches to allow for enough leg room.

C. Make a mark directly in the middle of the wall above the countertop. This is where you will center the first tile to start the backsplash project. If the countertop is tiled, locate the tile that is in the middle of the counter and use that as your starting point.

D. Epoxy glue is the most used type for granite countertop installation. It's strong enough to attach the granite to cabinets and to hold two pieces of stone together. You need something just as strong as the stone itself, and epoxy fits the bill.

7 / 17

Q. What do you put between backsplash and granite?

A. For countertops that will see heavy use in a wet location, install cement backerboard over the plywood base, and a trowel-applied or sheet membrane, before installing tile.

B. To prepare the granite for the backsplash, begin by caulking this gap between the granite and the wall. This will provide a solid surface where the backsplash mortar cannot go, while providing the granite a stable seat against the wall.

C. For Tile. The standard requirement for ceramic tile or natural stone tile installations is 3/4-inch plywood under a 1/4-inch concrete or fiberboard. Tile counter tops require the thickest types of plywood in comparison to all other types of finish materials.

D. The most common reason for a gap like this is improper installation. This may simply be poor securing and caulking of the counter itself, but it's just as likely an issue with leveling and fastening of the base cabinets below.

8 / 17

Q. Do you need backer board for backsplash?

A. Lay floor protection paper, found at your local home center, on your countertops to protect them during tiling. Lay the paper about 1-inch from all edges, then secure the edges with painter's tape. This paper, found in 36-inch by 100-foot rolls, will be valuable for other home improvement projects.

B. No, you don't have to put backerboard up for a tile backsplash. (If you are using the traditional 4x4 tiles made from talc powder. These are very light weight and will never need to withstand any weight on them. You can even put them over plaster.

C. Latex caulk is a terrible option for kitchen and bathroom backsplashes. To create a long-lasting watertight barrier, always use silicone caulk. Pure, or 100 per cent, silicone is the best existing caulk for surfaces that will come into contact with water.

D. For a successful glass tile backsplash installation, you must use a white, latex-additive thin-set mortar. This is crucial because glass is transparent, and the color of the adhesive can affect it. Glass is also nonporous, so mastic cannot dry properly behind it.

9 / 17

Q. How do you fill a 1-inch gap between countertops and walls?

A. Kitchen backsplash tile installations need a solid support beneath the bottom row. This is no problem when installing a backsplash over a countertop, but when you tile behind appliances, such as your range, there's no counter for support.

B. Simply fill the gap with the appropriately sized backer rod in a way that leaves room for the caulk to be the visible break between the counter and the wall. Then caulk on top of the foam material. Use the caulk tool as before to even out the finished caulking. Clean excess caulk away with a wet rag.

D. A standard countertop usually has an overhang of 1½ inches. Although some countertops may have a longer or shorter overhang, this number is generally the standard length for an overhang in homes. When utilizing an overhang for kitchen islands, the standard amount of overhang is typically 12 inches.

10 / 17

Q. Can I tile directly onto plywood countertop?

A. Build-up refers to the hidden strips of wood that give a laminated countertop the visual illusion of being 1 ½ inch thick. When one purchases a prefabricated countertop, the underside reveals that the laminate is glued to a board that is only ¾ inch thick.

B. Before you can lay the tile for your countertop, you must prepare the surface. Tile adheres most effectively to construction or exterior-grade plywood that is cut to fit your countertop. For added protection, top the plywood with a sheet of plastic that serves as a moisture barrier and a cement board top layer.

C. Fasten your countertop supports to weak supporting structure and expect them to hold up your counter. Use wimpy fasteners to attach your support brackets. Leave raw steel brackets unpainted as they will rust over time. Use inadequate aluminum or thin gauge shelf brackets to support your countertops.

D. Solid Surface countertops can overhang 6 inches without additional support (e.g. plywood decking). 3 cm Quartz (engineered stone) can handle a 14-inch overhangs and 3 cm Granite overhangs should not exceed a 10-inch overhang without additional support.

11 / 17

Q. What is the best adhesive for backsplash?

A. Latex caulk for kitchen and bathroom & backsplashes, is best to create a long-lasting watertight barrier.

B. Thin-set can be used for showers, bathtubs, backsplashes, and other areas. Walls, wainscots, dry backsplashes are key areas where tile mastic tends to be used. Thin set is inexpensive, and it fills in gaps and depressions. Mastic is very sticky, grabs fast, and is quick setting.

C. To prevent cracking in the grout between the bottom row of tile and the countertop edge, do not use grout at all.

D. If it's not level, stand a tile at the lowest spot and mark a level line on the wall at the tile's top. This is your starting point. Use a standard level or laser level to extend this reference line across the wall and around the entire area that's being tiled.

12 / 17

Q. How far can a countertop span without support?

A. A waterfall edge is a design aspect that makes a 90-degree angle at the end of the countertop. Rather than simply ending with a finished edge, the countertop heads toward the floor and continues down the side of the cabinet, island, or seating area.

B. An unsupported span of 24” and up to a maximum of 36” is acceptable as long as the stone is supported on both sides of the span. Longer spans must be supported across the span. Over hangs should be not exceed 6” for 2cm granite, 10" for 3cm granite and 15" for 3cm quartz beyond the supported area.

D. Fasten your countertop supports to weak supporting structure and expect them to hold up your counter. Use wimpy fasteners to attach your support brackets. Leave raw steel brackets unpainted as they will rust over time. Use inadequate aluminum or thin gauge shelf brackets to support your countertops.

13 / 17

Q. Can you use self-level over floor tiles?

A. Tile is the more durable material. Standing water won't harm tile, while laminate planks can be ruined if liquid is allowed to seep into the joints. Although laminate is less likely to chip if you drop a heavy pot on it, chips barely show on matte finish tile with color that runs all the way through.

B. Warning. Do not use self-leveling compound over glazed ceramic tiles, or over floors where a majority of the installed tiles have cracked. Wear work gloves, safety goggles and a particle mask when mixing and applying the compound to avoid skin, eye, and lung contact.

C. Vinyl flooring works well in any tightly sealed, smooth or seamless surface. Vinyl flooring can be installed over ceramic tile if the grout lines for the tile are not deep or wide.

D. It is possible to lay concrete over a tile floor if the tile is in good condition, sound, and there are not any problems with what is under the tile, then the concrete can be laid successfully. Putting down concrete overlayment is a rather tedious process.

14 / 17

Q. Which is better vinyl or laminate?

A. To summarize, vinyl is a better choice when you need water resistance, lifespan, and durability in your flooring. Meanwhile, laminate is preferable if you want a more stylish appearance, lower costs, and a comfortable feel underfoot.

B. Laminate flooring generally has a 20-year lifespan, while ceramic can last almost indefinitely. On the other hand, the installation process for ceramic flooring can feel like it lasts forever, while installing laminate flooring is, in comparison, markedly easier.

C. Also, well-maintained tile can last as long as the home while laminate will wear over time. Tile's vulnerability is to be chipping or breaking if something heavy is dropped on it, while laminate is less likely to be damaged this way. If damage does occur to laminate, however, it will be more obvious.

D. Laminate flooring is best suited for small bathrooms, such as a downstairs half bath or more intimate master suite bathroom. Half baths, with only a sink and toilet, lack the tub or shower to create spillage or humidity.

15 / 17

Q. Can you use floor tile for countertops?

A. Flush countertops to the wall to make it solid. Walls aren't always straight. It's not uncommon for walls to have dips, curves, bulges, or angles. Cabinetmakers and countertop installers deal with them all the time.

B. There are many different materials on the market, but the pros recommend natural stone and porcelain for bathroom and kitchen countertops. Natural stone won't show chips or imperfections as clearly.

C. Porcelain is also resistant to ultraviolet light which means it won't fade from sunlight so it's a great choice for outdoor kitchen countertops. Porcelain countertop colors come in virtually any shade or pattern and with many that look like marble and other natural stone.

D. Kitchen countertops, while many homeowners reserve tile for floors and backsplashes, tile countertops can be an excellent—and affordable—option. Ceramic tile is impervious to heat and water, and when properly glazed, it won't stain. Still most popular out west, ceramic tile is a solid option worth a second look.

16 / 17

Q. Do you put spacer between tile and countertop?

A. First, during tile installation, leave a small space between the tiles and the wood surface or countertop No more than 1/8th of an inch.

B. Fill the gap with the appropriately sized backer rod in a way that leaves room for the caulk to be the visible break between the counter and the wall. Then caulk on top of the foam material. Use the caulk tool as before to even out the finished caulking. Clean excess caulk away with a wet rag.

C. The primary reason to use caulk between your backsplash tile and your kitchen cabinets is because it will create a lasting, waterproof seal. As your house settles, and as different surfaces expand and contract slightly due to changes in temperature, your ceramic tile and kitchen cabinets will expand at different rates.

D. This may simply be poor securing and caulking of the counter itself, but it's just as likely an issue with leveling and fastening of the base cabinets below. The most common reason for a gap is for proper installation.

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Q. How do you prepare a wall for tiling?

A. Removing any screws/photo hooks/nails or other fittings.

B. Remove any loose plaster.

C. Remove old wallpaper.

D. Fill any large cracks/holes in the wall.

E. Ensure the wall is level and sand if required.

G. All The Above.

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WOODFLOOR INSTILLATION

Created on May 22, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Woodfloor Installer Certification

Woodfloor Installers may hone their skills in a wide range of Techniques, all Installers are Am-Cat Woodfloor Certified.

1 / 16

Q. Should I glue subfloor to joists?

A. Both OSB and plywood sheathing are good options for the construction of structural sub-floors. Both are strong, durable, and long-lasting. Wood scientists agree that the structural performance of plywood and OSB are equivalent.

B. An effective strategy for filling large gaps is to mix patching compound to a stiff, mortar-like consistency, trowel it into the plywood subfloor gaps and wait for it to stiffen before troweling it smooth. Some sanding may be needed when it sets completely.

C. The answer: Glue. Although using a subfloor adhesive (or subfloor glue) is not required by code, it is a standard practice that can help prevent floor squeaks by reducing the chance for movement at the panel-to-joist connection. A quality subfloor adhesive will also increase the overall stiffness of the floor.

D. It’s fairly common to have gaps in an old subfloor, and they usually don't change much in terms of the stability and reliability of your floor. However, the main concern when you have holes in the subfloor is vermin, which not only eat through wood but also leave their excretions in the subfloor.

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Q. What’s stronger OSB or plywood?

A. OSB is stronger than plywood in shear. Shear values, through its thickness, are about two times greater than plywood. This is one of the reasons OSB is used for webs of wooden I-joists. However, nail-holding ability controls performance in shear wall applications.

B. OSB tongue and groove 18mm boards are suitable and widely used in structural (manufactured in accordance with EN 13986) and interior applications, such as: Load bearing roofing & flooring applications.

C. Plywood has been a standard subfloor material since the 1950s and remains the preferred subflooring for many builders. Standard plywood can be used for subfloors, but a better material is 3/4-inch tongue-and-groove plywood subflooring.

D. When choosing a grade for your plywood flooring I'd stick with CDX if it's a subfloor. Higher grade plywood is typically used for cabinet and furniture making. If your joists are spaced at 16 inches on center go with at least a 5/8-inch plywood.

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Q. Can you put plywood over OSB?

A. For subflooring, you use tongue and groove plywood. The tongue and groove are only along the 8-foot edges. On the four-foot edges, your seams will fall on joist tops, so no need for tongue and groove. But to start off, we will need to remove the tongue, so the plywood is tight with the exterior ICF walls.

B. Yes, you can screw it. But avoid screwing the ply to the joists. You want to fasten it to the layer of OSB only.

C. Although using a subfloor adhesive (or subfloor glue) is not required by code, it is a standard practice that can help prevent floor squeaks by reducing the chance for movement at the panel-to-joist connection. A quality subfloor adhesive will also increase the overall stiffness of the floor.

D. The recommended thickness of the plywood subfloor is governed by the spacing of the joists. Some experts suggest that 15/32-inch plywood should be standard if the underlying floor joists are spaced 16 inches apart or less, but slightly thicker 3/4-inch plywood should be used for joists spaced further apart.

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Q. Can you install wood flooring over OSB?

A. Because of the rough surface of OSB, you will most likely want to finish with a polyurethane coat, which will be extra work, but not only will it be heavy-duty, it will look incredibly glossy and clean with a smooth top. The polyurethane will also be important in the rooms with moisture.

B. The minimum thickness of plywood for subflooring is about 5/8 inch. Since it does not hold fasteners as well as plywood, OSB must be a little thicker, or at least 23/32 inch.

C. OSB can accommodate glue-down, nail/staple, or floating hardwood installations. Some prohibit water-based adhesives given the potential for both the flooring and wood substrate to absorb moisture from the glue. Some types of hardwood flooring also call for a vapor retarder between the hardwood flooring and subfloor.

D. If you want to use OSB as a finish material, you can successfully paint it to make it more attractive and perhaps even improve its utility.

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Q. How do you fill gaps between wood and brick?

A. Caulking is the process of filling in cracked concretes or the gap between slab and wall. Now, this is an efficient way of sealing the gap. A large gap can result in water getting into the cracks and making it even bigger. So, you must caulk the gap to cover it up.

B. One of the most common uses of exterior caulk is to seal the openings between different types of materials, such as wood and brick. Applying caulk to a brick surface must be done carefully so as not to spread excess caulk over the surface of the brick.

C. With concrete holding the moisture against the wood, wood has no chance and will eventually lose the battle. Now you don't have to lose all hope because it's for certain that the concrete around the post will crack, therefore making it easy to pull out when it starts to rot.

D. The mudsill, also called a "sill plate", is the first layer of wood to be installed on top of the foundation wall. It serves as the anchor point for the home's framing. Because the floor and walls will be built on top of it, the mudsill needs to be installed straight, level, flat, and square.

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Q. Can I put new wood flooring over old wood flooring?

A. The most common type of floors floated over carpet are vinyl and laminate, given they are budget-friendly and feature a simple interlocking system of installation.

B. Unlike traditional solid-wood strips, a floating floor isn't nailed down. Instead, the planks are either glued or snapped together. The planks go down fast, over virtually any material—concrete, plywood, sheet vinyl, even ceramic tile.

C. Although you can add new wood flooring over the old one, the answer is YES. New hardwood flooring over old hardwood flooring: 3/4 “thick or thicker solid or engineered hardwood flooring must be built over old wood flooring boards (at an angle of 90 degrees).

D. Glue-down floors are better for rooms with heavy load and foot traffic because they're more stable. On the other hand, floating floors have more room for warping and buckling that are triggered by changing temperature and moisture levels in the room.

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Q. What do you put between wood and concrete?

A. Air seal between the sill plate and the sub-floor with caulk, foam, or an equivalent material. Install a foam gasket beneath sill plates that are sitting on concrete or masonry and adjacent to conditioned space to both air seal and serve as a capillary break between the concrete and the sill plate.

B. I recommend using an exterior silicone formulation for concrete or a high-quality polyurethane sealant. Both will stick well to the wood and the concrete. Acoustical sealant is a better, albeit slightly more expensive, option. Caulk often works best at a slab-wall transition.

C. Any place where wood meets the ground or concrete, the lumber must be pressure treated. For additional moisture protection, a gasket or strip of closed-cell foam can be installed between the concrete foundation and the sill plate.

D. If your absolutely sure that the concrete doesn't get damp because of exterior water problems. Lay 6-mil polyethylene sheeting over the concrete to minimize moisture migration from the concrete up into the wood flooring. Then fasten 3/4-in. treated plywood to the concrete with concrete screws spaced every 16 in.

E. All The Above.

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Q. How is a wooden floor constructed?

A. Hardwood floors can be laid across the room, along the room or even at a 45-degree angle if that is your choice. However, the most common way to lay a wooden floor is laying it lengthways in the light path from the largest window or light source.

B. The subfloor is the bottom most structure of the floor. It provides a flat and stable surface and supports the actual floor. Underlayment is different from the subfloor in that it rests between the subfloor and the actual floor.

C. Engineered wood floors are generally manufactured with 2, 3, or 5 thin sheets, or plies, of wood that are laminated together to form one plank. Then a wood veneer is added to the top layer. This construction creates a wood floor that is dimensionally stable and less affected by moisture than a solid wood floor.

D. If you are using plywood for your subfloor, you should use a minimum of one layer that is between ¾” and ⅝” thick. This thickness will suffice for most floors; however, codes will vary, and a second layer is a good idea if your floor covering is going to be a heavy material like ceramic tiles or natural stone.

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Q. Do I need a moisture barrier under hardwood floors?

A. Normally interior walls do not require a vapor barrier, but there are some situations where it is highly recommended. Interior bathroom and kitchen walls, for example, are areas where there is great benefit to installing a vapor barrier. Bathrooms and kitchens produce an enormous amount of water vapor daily.

B. Without poly beneath the drywall, water vapor hits the drywall and diffuses through to the drier (in summer) indoor air. By installing a sheet of poly there, you cut off that drying mechanism and water that finds its way into walls can stay there longer and do more damage.

C. YES! Moisture can destroy hardwood flooring. It causes cupping, warping, and even mildew if not treated. You must install a moisture barrier to protect your flooring from water wicking up from below.

D. NO! Moisture can’t destroy hardwood flooring. It causes cupping, warping, and even mildew if treated. You don’t need to install a moisture barrier to protect your flooring from water wicking up from below.

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Q What should you put under hardwood flooring?

A. The most common way to lay hardwood flooring is by aligning the planks parallel to the longest wall. Apart from a few exceptions like sagging joists, this is the preferred direction to lay wood floors because it aesthetically provides the best result.

B. Paper or felt are two materials that are traditionally installed between hardwood flooring and the subfloor. These materials help minimize squeaking that may occur between the bottom of the floorboards and the top of the subfloor.

C. If you have a concrete subfloor, then you should glue your hardwood down, if you have a wooden subfloor then you can choose either method of installation. However, if you are planning on fitting your hardwood floor to joists, then you will need to secret nail them into place.

D. Hardwood flooring must be installed perpendicular to the floor joists or on a diagonal for any single layer subfloor. To run parallel to the joists, you'll need to add a 1/2” plywood underlayment or brace every 16” between joists with a nominal 2”x 6” SPF nailed in place.

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Q. What is the best way to install Woodfloors?

A. Underlayment is a layer of material between your subfloor and your floor. While some flooring comes with the underlayment attached, others will require you to install a separate underlayment. Most of the time, underlayment consists of rubber, cork, foam, or felt.

B. Nails allow for a more natural expansion and contraction of the hardwood floorboards with fewer problems. Because stapled floorboards are fastened tighter; the hardwoods may be more prone to cracking in response to changes in moisture because they cannot contract or expand as well as nailed floorboards.

C. Install hardwood floors perpendicular to the floor joists, parallel to the longest wall, leaving a ¾-inch expansion gap around the perimeter. Join the ends of the boards over a floor joist, where possible, avoiding joints that form an H. Keep joints that line up at least two rows apart.

D. Moisture can destroy hardwood flooring. It causes cupping, warping, and even mildew if not treated. You must install a moisture barrier to protect your flooring from water wicking up from below.

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Q. Do I need an underlayment for hardwood floors?

A. Basically, subfloors are a structural part of your home that provide strength and rigidity to your home's flooring. Underlays, on the other hand, protect your floor covering from moisture, help soundproof your floor, and offer cushioning and comfort underfoot

B. YES! Moisture can destroy hardwood flooring. It causes cupping, warping, and even mildew if not treated. You must install a moisture barrier to protect your flooring from water wicking up from below.

C. While underlayment isn't always necessary for your hardwood floors, there are always benefits to it. Underlayment provides support for your floor and helps smooth subfloor imperfections. It allows your flooring to lay correctly over the subfloor, preventing tripping hazards or an uneven appearance.

D. What Underlayment is Best for Wood? When installing hardwood or engineered wood flooring, the best underlay options are cork and foam. However, foam does have more give than cork so, while it is the more popular option, we recommend cork. Cork has less give, making it less likely to flex underneath your planks.

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Q. What is the cheapest and easiest flooring to install?

A. Carpet technology has improved over the years, and modern carpets have stain-resistant qualities. It's also the most cost-effective flooring option on the market. Carpet installation varies in price, depending on the type of material and thickness of the carpet padding.

B. Plank vinyl If you're looking for a realistic hardwood or stone alternative, plank vinyl is the cheapest option for rivaling the look of pricier flooring. And unlike sheet vinyl, planks come in small sizes, making the entire installation process easier.

C. Installing vinyl plank flooring is an easy beginner-friendly project. Get all the details of how to prep the floor and install step-by-step! We needed to install new flooring in our kitchen/entryway/staircase area. It needed to be durable, waterproof, and easy to maintain.

D. Disadvantages of vinyl floors Can emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs) Shorter lifespan than wood floors. No impact, or negative impact, on home resale value. Difficult to remove, especially if adhesive is used during installation.

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Q. Is it easy to install laminate flooring?

A. Installing laminate flooring is quite easy, and after you've done it once you will wonder why anyone ever pays professional installers to do this. Unlike ceramic tile, laminate flooring is a dry installation—no grout, no mortar, no adhesives that set up while you're working.

B. The actual process of installation (excluding all preparation steps) would take most homeowners three to four hours, with an extra one to two hours to wrap the flooring around cabinets and doorways.

C. Installing a laminate floor costs $8 to $15 per square foot for labor and material. For the flooring alone, expect to pay between $2 and $6 per square foot. Laminate floors can mimic the look of stone or tile, but most have a wood appearance. The type of wood changes the cost.

D. Before you use your new floor or move into the room, make sure the floor is completely cured. Do not walk on the floor for 24 hours after installation. If you do, it will damage the installation, resulting in an uneven floor.

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Q. Can you use self-level over floor tiles?

C. Vinyl flooring works well in any tightly sealed, smooth, or seamless surface. Vinyl flooring can be installed over ceramic tile if the grout lines for the tile are not deep or wide.

16 / 16

Q. Which is better vinyl or laminate?

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PAINTING THECHNIQUES

Created on May 23, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Painting Certification

Painters may hone their skills in a wide range of Techniques, all Installers are Am-Cat Painting Certified.

1 / 16

Q. What should be put over paint to protect it?

A. Drywall primer is the common name for PVA primers (Polyvinyl acetate). A PVA primer goes onto new porous sheetrock and seals the pores and creates a soft even coat over the top of the sheetrock. This creates a more uniform surface which you can then apply your topcoat onto.

B. Polyurethane is a synthetic, oil-based varnish that deposits a highly durable and protective coating on painted and bare wood surfaces. It is manufactured in liquid forms that you apply with a brush or a spray can.

C. Water-resistant drywall has been around for more than 25 years. It is known in the trade as greenboard because of its green paper facing. It is a great product when used exactly as it was designed to be used. I have had great success using greenboard behind sinks and toilets and on walls with ceramic-tile backsplashes.

D. If you fail to prime your drywall before painting it, you will risk peeling paint in humid or even worse conditions. You should prime your drywall before applying any paint coating since this will prevent it from drying out.

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Q. Can I put sealer over paint?

A. Yes, this can happen! You should apply two coats of sealer and let it dry thoroughly in-between each layer. Sealing also provides an easier surface to apply subsequent paint layers starting with a primer.

B. The terms primer, sealer and primer-sealer are often used interchangeably, but they are very different products. There are products however, which are primers and sealers in one, called primer-sealers.

C. No, this can’t happen! You should apply 45 coats of sealer and let it dry thoroughly in-between each layer. Sealing also provides an easier surface to apply subsequent paint layers starting with a primer.

D. Primer because drywall is porous and must be sealed with a sealer or self-priming paint. Bare Wood — Use a wood primer, as wood contains tannin acids that can bleed through. Stains — Choose a stain-blocking primer for stains because it prevents stains from appearing through the topcoat.

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Q. Do you edge second coat of paint?

2nd flr painting 5967 Rice finishing 29 001

A. Proper paint technique is to apply two, thinner layers of paint to obtain complete, even coverage. A two coat application will look better and last much longer.

B. The process of applying a second coat of colored paint to your interior walls is the same as you used for the first coat. After applying paint with a roller, establish a straight edge between colors and cut-in around trim using a brush.

C. Applying a second coat of paint will not make the paint darker, but the paint may appear more vibrant if your first coat of paint was thin. For both acrylics and watercolors, a second coat of paint can help you achieve the bright and vibrant version of the paint color you're using.

D. If the new color is “close” to the existing color, then generally only one coat is needed, even in the case of darker colors. Creating a substantial color change or painting over white usually requires a second coat to prevent the underlying color from “peeking through”.

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Q. Does the first coat of paint have to be perfect?

A. To “thin” paint, an exterior painter will add water to the paint bucket, increasing the paint's workability and slowing down the speed with which it dries. This is especially helpful in hot climates, including summers in the Sun Belt.

B. To achieve the best possible finish with water-based gloss, focus on one area at a time and move the brush in one direction rather than going back and forth to avoid disturbing recently applied wet paint. Water based gloss should be given adequate time to dry before more coasts are added.

C. The primer coat doesn't have to be perfect, but it should cover the surface (no bare spots) and it shouldn't be so blotchy that you get drips or visible unevenness. You need to prime the surface thoroughly. The purpose of the primer is to give the surface uniform absorption properties.

D. It is generally recommended to apply two coats of paint at a time. The cost of applying two or more coats of paint on a surface will be higher, but the coat will last 3-5 times longer than one applied once.

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Q. Do you cut in before or after rolling?

A. On bare wood, two coats are usually enough. The topcoat—whether gloss, satin, or eggshell finish–adds texture rather than color, so add a third layer of undercoat for full coverage if needed. Alternatively, combined primer undercoat paints are available – you'll need three or four coats.

B. Cutting is mostly dependent on the quality of the paint and the color. You want to do it enough times so that it matches the rolled-on areas. There is no 'one way' to do this, but typically I cut in first, then roll, then touch up as needed.

C. Often, roller marks occur when you fail to load your roller with enough paint or have exhausted the paint in your roller and are trying to cover more area than you should. Finally, applying the wrong amount of pressure can cause paint to push out around the edge of the roller, creating a streak.

D. Cut in the corners before you roll paint on the main surfaces. This means painting both sides of each corner starting about two brush lengths away and painting into the corner. Use a 2 or 3-inch brush for paints. You can cut-in around the trim either before or after rolling.

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Q. What happens if you don't sand before painting?

A. The topcoat—whether gloss, satin, or eggshell finish–adds texture rather than color, so add a third layer of undercoat for full coverage if needed. Alternatively, combined primer undercoat paints are available – you'll need three or four coats.

B. If you don't sand before painting, you will likely end up with an uneven finish and a paint job that will likely end up peeling after a few months. You may also be able to see any lighter or darker patches of the book come through the paint which looks ugly and unprofessional.

C. Once the undercoat is dry (normally two to three hours, but check on the tin), apply another coat on top. Two layers of undercoat should cover any darker paint finishes underneath and helps to build a better base for the gloss coat.

D. It's essential to use the correct primers and undercoats to allow paint to do its job properly. Undercoat is often required to seal unpainted surfaces or prepare the surface for painting.

7 / 16

Q. Should you paint woodwork or walls first?

A. Wipe down the walls and use painter's tape to cover edges or surfaces — moldings, doorways, windowsills — that you won't be painting. Don't: Remove all the lighting. After all, you'll need proper lighting to see what you are doing. Also don't tape over windows as you'll need to ventilate the space.

B. Paint all the woodwork first—the first and second coats—then move onto the walls. If you toggle back and forth, your cutlines won't be as sharp. When you do the woodwork first, you can ride the trim paint onto the walls a little, then cut over it in one go.

C. Sanding between coats of primer is pointless. Once primer is dry, you should sand the primer before moving on to the basecoat color. Sanding between coats of primer will just extend how long it takes to complete the phase, while standing at the end of the primer step yields the same results.

D. If the skirting is currently stained or varnished, you'll need to go over it with a sealer/primer first to stop any stain coming though, then an undercoat to prepare for the topcoat. If the skirting is currently painted, you should be able to just paint over it.

8 / 16

Q. Do I paint the walls or skirting boards first?

A. For a professional finish, you'll require at least two coats. Allow the paint to dry completely then use a fine grade sandpaper to lightly go over the skirting before you start on the second coat. Look for any drips or bumps, being sure to sand them right down.

B. It's essential to use the correct primers and undercoats to allow paint to do its job properly. Undercoat is often required to seal unpainted surfaces or prepare the surface for painting.

C. On bare wood, two coats are usually enough. The topcoat—whether gloss, satin, or eggshell finish–adds texture rather than color, so add a third layer of undercoat for full coverage if needed. Alternatively, combined primer undercoat paints are available – you'll need three or four coats.

D. You should paint your walls first and your skirting boards last. One of the golden rules of decorating is to start at the top and work your way down. By painting a feature wall beforehand, you'll avoid any drip marks ruining your newly painted skirting boards.

9 / 16

Q. Is it okay to cut in one day and paint the next?

A. Dip a paint roller into the paint. Spread the paint onto the wall in a "W" like pattern. Spread the paint over the wall, blending the paint with the cut in paint. Do this while the cut in paint is still wet.

B. The process of applying a second coat of colored paint to your interior walls is the same as you used for the first coat. The tricky part is keeping track of where you've painted. Begin at the top corner of one wall with an angled brush and cut in along the trim and in the corners.

C. There is nothing wrong with cutting in one day then rolling the next. The only thing to watch for is to do your best not to leave deep brush marks in the paint. Do your best to keep the paint smooth. Most times paint will flatten as it dries, this is just something to be aware of.

D. While the color won't change based on what you are using, the texture may. What I typically do is do them both at the same time. I'll cut in around a window, then roll as close as I can get safely with the roller to even out the texture.

10 / 16

Q. How long should paint dry between coats?

A. To ensure an even application, paint should be applied to the walls in the same pattern as the first coat. Experts recommend first cutting in all edges. When all edges have been neatly coated, you can then use a roller to paint the walls.

B. Sanding between coats of primer is pointless. Once primer is dry, you should sand the primer before moving on to the basecoat color. Sanding between coats of primer will just extend how long it takes to complete the phase, while standing at the end of the primer step yields the same results.

C. Two to four hours, but it's not just the amount of paint that needs consideration when repainting a room. Paint that isn't allowed to dry before the application of a second coat is likely to peel, streak, clump, or flake when dry. Experts recommend leaving a minimum of two to four hours of drying time between each coat for best results.

D. Avoid painting interior surfaces in dim light. The painted surface may look fine at first, but when you uncover the windows or turn on bright lights, you'll likely see thin patches and other imperfections.

11 / 16

Q. Can I use white emulsion as an undercoat for gloss?

A. Mist coat paint is simply watered-down emulsion paint, which acts as your primer. All you need to do is get some white emulsion paint and thin it out with water – it's that easy! Three parts paint to one part water should work. If you don't fancy watering down your paint, you can also use Dulux Sealer for Plaster.

C. Yes, you can use water-based emulsions as an undercoat and then overcoat using a water-based gloss or satin finish. While this would not be done by a professional decorator due to it leaving a less impressive finish, if this is all you have at your disposal, it will be perfectly fine.

D. No, with other surfaces, emulsion paint can be applied to wood. As an undercoat, emulsion paint can also be used on wooden surfaces, such as door and window frames, spindles, stairs, skirting boards, etc. Once that is done, you can use varnish to seal the wood.

12 / 16

Q. Are three coats of paint too much?

B. Choose the right number of coats for your painting project. Before you think the answer is as simple as 1, 2, or 3, we should say that every project, color, and surface is a little different and has unique requirements. Three coats – in this last scenario, three coats would be the absolute minimum number needed.

C. So, if you're painting a room, be sure to paint an entire wall in one sitting. Otherwise, the paint job will almost certainly be uneven. In general, you should always paint an entire section at a time, to avoid inconsistent paint coats.

D. On bare wood, two coats are usually enough. The topcoat—whether gloss, satin, or eggshell finish–adds texture rather than color, so add a third layer of undercoat for full coverage if needed. Alternatively, combined primer undercoat paints are available – you'll need three or four coats.

13 / 16

Q. Can you paint skirting boards with a roller?

A. If the wall is in good condition and the paints are chemically the same (both latexes, for instance), you have a few options when the new paint is the opposite shade of the old paint. You can use a primer to thoroughly cover the old color, then apply 1 or 2 coats of the new paint.

B. To ensure an even application, paint should be applied to the walls in the same pattern as the first coat. Experts recommend first cutting in all edges. When all edges have been neatly coated, you can then use a roller to paint the walls.

C. Under coats, Primers, and Varnishes – If the skirting is currently stained or varnished, you'll need to go over it with a sealer/primer first to stop any stain coming though, then an undercoat to prepare for the topcoat. If the skirting is currently painted, you should be able to just paint over it.

D. You can be professional and use a mini gloss roller if you fancy. Included in the COAT Large Supplies Kit, the spongy gloss roller will give you a ridiculously smooth finish for flat skirting boards or wood paneling.

14 / 16

Q. Why do I get roller marks when painting?

A. If there are any runs or drips, lightly run the brush over them to spread the paint for an even finish. Once the primer is dry (this should take 2-4 hours) rub down with a fine sandpaper. Next, clean and apply a coat of undercoat - this typically takes around 1-2 hours to dry.

B. Paint all the woodwork first—the first and second coats—then move onto the walls, if you toggle back and forth, your cutlines won't be as sharp. When you do the woodwork first, you can ride the trim paint onto the walls a little, then cut over it in one go.

D. Wipe down the walls and use painter's tape to cover edges or surfaces — moldings, doorways, windowsills — that you won't be painting. Don't: Remove all the lighting. After all, you'll need proper lighting to see what you are doing. Also don't tape over windows as you'll need to ventilate the space.

15 / 16

Q. What order should you paint a room?

A. 1st The Ceiling. The ceiling should always be painted first.

B. 2nd The Walls.

C. 3rd The Skirting Boards.

D. 4th The Window and Door Frames.

E. 5th The Doors.

F. All The Above in order.

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Q. Are five coats of paint too much?

A. There is no limit to how many times the walls in a house may be painted that I am aware of, and if the paint builds up and becomes a problem, that also may be sanded away. It works for some, I guess.

B. Personally, I cut in for each coat and don't let it dry. Also, make sure you cut in first then roll.

C. The general rule is that you should use two coats of paint. However, this rule changes based on the color, quality of the paint you use, whether you used primer, and the type of surface you're painting.

D. Sanding between coats of primer is pointless. Once primer is dry, you should sand the primer before moving on to the basecoat color. Sanding between coats of primer will just extend how long it takes to complete the phase, while standing at the end of the primer step yields the same results.

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WHEN MEETING YOUR INSURANCE ADJUSTER

Created on May 04, 2022 By

amcat

When Meeting your Insurance Adjuster.

Am-Cat Restoration Breaks down common Interaction with your Insurance Adjuster on the 1st visit at your Home or Property.

1 / 10

Q. What is not covered by building insurance?

A. The total value of your assets and building is the basic factor of the premium amount. The market value of the building and purchase value of all the contents are taken into consideration while calculating the premium amount.

B. It provides cover for damage caused by events like fires, storms, and floods. Buildings insurance does not cover the items inside your house, like furniture, carpets, clothes, electronics, and personal items. You'll need contents insurance to insure these. Limits, terms, and exclusions apply to all building’s insurance.

C. No claim arising out of damage or loss due to high temperature. The loss must be by actual fire explosion or ignition and not by other means. The actual or nearby cause of the loss should be fire. The loss or damage must recount to subject matter of fire policy.

D. The truth is you should never talk directly with an adjuster in the first place. While you are required under the terms of your policy to work with your insurance company, that does not mean you have to deal with them one-on-one.

2 / 10

Q. How many insurance claims is too many?

A. Once you file a claim, you might wonder, “How long does an auto insurance company have to settle a claim?” The short answer is, usually around 30 days.

B. They attempt to deny homeowners what they deserve, by stating reasons like the fire department was unable to effectively locate the source of the fire or some other excuse. One of the most used reasons insurance companies deny fire claims is to accuse you of arson or insurance fraud.

C. In general, there is no set amount to home insurance claims you can file. However, two claims in a five-year period can cause your home insurance premiums to rise. Over two claims in the same period may affect your ability to find coverage and even lead to a cancelled policy.

D. No claim arising out of damage or loss due to high temperature. The loss must be by actual fire explosion or ignition and not by other means. The actual or nearby cause of the loss should be fire. The loss or damage must recount to subject matter of fire policy.

3 / 10

Q. How do home insurance companies pay out claims?

A. According to most policies, however, the insurance company totally controls the right to settle; the policyholder has no rights and cannot negotiate with the plaintiff.

B. Contractor's liability insurance covers claims arising out of damage a contractor causes to a third party. This is one of the most important coverages a contractor can get, because it covers the liability risks associated with your ongoing operations (while at the job site).

C. Assigning your entire insurance claim to a third party takes you out of the process and gives control of your claim to the contractor.

D. Insurance companies will typically pay the Homeowner directly. Or the insurance company will send a check payable to the homeowner and the contractor, and both parties sign off on the check.

4 / 10

Q. How do I file a building insurance claim?

A. Retain the police and or fire department fire report.

B. Call your insurance carrier to file claim.

C. Keep bill receipts, documentation and take photos as evidence.

D. If repairs aren't urgent, get the insurer to approve the work.

E. All The Above.

5 / 10

Q. How do Insurance companies determine settlement amounts?

B. Insurance companies determine settlement amounts by looking at three factors: liability, damages, and the terms of the insurance policy. For an insurance company to offer a settlement, liability must be clear.

C. Your insurance company must respond within 15 days after receiving your claim in writing. After you submit any requested documentation, the company has 15 days to accept or reject your claim. Once the company agrees to pay your claim, it must send a draft or check within 5 business days.

D. Professionals can complete smaller fire repairs in a day or two, but extensive repairs can take up to several months. The size of the fire and affected household areas will determine your concrete timeline.

6 / 10

Q. What is a claims insurance adjuster?

A. After grabbing a cup of coffee, insurance agents likely start the day by going through voice mails and emails. Some of these will be from existing clients who have questions about their policies or claims. Agents may also use this time to confirm meeting appointments that they have with clients later on in the day.

B. Your insurance company must respond within 15 days after receiving your claim in writing. After you submit any requested documentation, the company has 15 days to accept or reject your claim. Once the company agrees to pay your claim, it must send a draft or check within 5 business days.

C. Calmly and politely is the best way to approach an insurance claim dispute. First, you can write a letter to the independent adjuster explaining why you believe their total settlement is not enough compared to what you calculated. Even if you're upset, don't demonstrate it.

D. Often insurance companies will deliver an offer in response to a settlement demand between three days and three weeks. The time difference will depend on the reasons behind your compensation requests and if it includes non-economic damages.

7 / 10

Q. What questions do insurance investigators ask?

A. Common Questions in Recorded Statements to Insurance Adjusters

B. Could you please state your full name?

C. Do you understand that this interview is being recorded?

D. Is it being recorded with your permission?

E. If I need to share the information with another adjuster, may I do so?

F. What is your address and telephone number?

G. All The Above.

8 / 10

Q. Why would an insurance company investigate a claim?

A. According to the American Academy of Family Physicians, the health insurance industry averages a 5% to 10% denial rate. So, 90 to 95% of claims get approved every year.

B. Insurance companies often conduct claims investigations to evaluate the legitimacy of a claim. The investigation process helps the claims adjuster make an educated decision about how to proceed with a claim. Insurance claims investigations are used to combat the prevalence of false or inflated claims.

D. looking for factual information about coverage types and levels. They ask questions about policy restrictions and coverage availability and will look for personal guidance.

9 / 10

Q. What does claims adjuster mean in the insurance industry?

A. Accepting the first compensation offer is not recommended, unless you have taken independent legal or public adjuster advice on the whole value of your claim, you should not accept a first offer from an insurance company.

B. looking for factual information about coverage types and levels. They ask questions about policy restrictions and coverage availability and will look for personal guidance.

C. According to the American Academy of Family Physicians, the health insurance industry averages a 5% to 10% denial rate. So, 90 to 95% of claims get approved every year.

D. An insurance adjuster, also known as a claims adjuster, is someone who processes claims filed with insurance companies, either from insureds or hired clients. They review the facts of each case and determine an appropriate claim settlement under the terms of the insured's policy.

10 / 10

Q. What does an insurance Adjuster look for?

A. According to the American Academy of Family Physicians, the health insurance industry averages a 5% to 10% denial rate. So, 90 to 95% of claims get approved every year.

B. Accepting the first compensation offer is not recommended, unless you have taken independent legal or public adjuster advice on the whole value of your claim, you should not accept a first offer from an insurance company.

C. looking for factual information about coverage types and levels. They ask questions about policy restrictions and coverage availability and will look for personal guidance.

D. Insurance Adjuster starts with evaluating the property and checks it for the damage done to it. For example, if a house caught fire and had been damaged, the insurance assessor would go and evaluate the house, check its monetary value, evaluate the damages done, and decide if they are claimable.

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UNDERSTANDING A TECHNICAL WORK-SHEET

Created on May 05, 2022 By

amcat

Understanding a Technical Work-Sheet.

Am-Cat Restoration Breaks down how a technical writing work-sheet outlines detailing cost of the damages presented.

1 / 15

Q. How much our Am-Cat’s Xactimate consultants’ Rates?

A. Commercial projects Rate (multiple Bathroom, multiple kitchens, multiple rooms, multiple utility, garage/ storage space) $10,000.00

B. Multi-unit project Rate (3 Bathrooms ,3 kitchens, 9 rooms, utility, garage/ storage) $7,500.00

C. Single family project Rate (1 Bathrooms ,1 kitchen, 3 rooms, attic, garage) $3,500.00

D. Large project Rate (1 Bathrooms ,1 kitchen ,3 rooms or condo) $2,500.00

E. Medium project Rate (1 Bathrooms and 1 kitchen or a Garage) $850.00

F. Small Project Rate (1 Bathrooms or 1 kitchens) $500.00

G. All The Above.

2 / 15

Q. Do all insurance companies use Xactimate?

A. All major insurance companies use Xactimate for their estimating and billing systems to ensure pricing uniformity between themselves and contractors. Xactimate works by using items such as labor, material, and measurements to come up with the prices.

B. Xactimate is great for producing cost estimates contractors. Overall, I'd recommend this product to any mitigation and restoration team and to contractors.

C. The Level 1 Certification Prep Course provides in-depth training to those who are working towards their Level 1 Certification. This level of certification verifies that a user has the foundational skills required to create an estimate from start to finish in Xactimate.

D. Numerous insurance companies, including but not limited to, Liberty Mutual, Travelers Insurance, and the ACE Group. Xactware Solutions provides computer software solutions for professionals involved in estimating all phases of building and repair. In 1986, Xactware opened for business with Xactimate, its flagship estimating system. Xactimate helped contractors and insurance adjusters estimate repairs much faster and more accurately than they ever could before. Since then, Xactimate has evolved into a high-powered package complete with a patented plan-sketching program, and Xactware has become much more than just Xactimate. Today twenty-two of the top twenty-five property insurance companies in the U.S. and ten of the top ten Canadian insurers use Xactware property insurance claims tools. Xactware features software solutions for every phase of a building's life: from remodeling to totally replacing a building, from determining the cost of rebuilding a structure to preserving and repairing a home.

E. All The Above.

3 / 15

Q. What exactly is revenue?

A. Profit is typically added to the cost of a construction-related job to allow the entity performing the work to grow their company through reinvestment. General Overhead and Profit percentages can be added in the Estimate Parameters window within an Xactimate estimate.

B. Within Xactimate, general overhead and profit (O&P) for general contractors are added as percentages in the Estimate Parameters window. Subcontractor overhead and profit is intended to be included in the labor overhead portion of the retail labor rate.

C. Overhead refers to an ongoing expense associated with operating a business. This can include anything from administrative to marketing costs. The key difference is that burden rate is used to determine the cost of production, whereas overhead expenses are not directly tied to your cost of production.

D. Revenue is the money generated from normal business operations, calculated as the average sales price times the number of units sold. It is the top line (or gross income) figure from which costs are subtracted to determine net income. Revenue is also known as sales on the income statement.

4 / 15

Q. Is Xactimate hard to use?

A. I've instructed on many important aspects of adjusting, but – by far – Xactimate is the largest and most difficult technical hurdle for new claims adjusters. Xactimate proficiency is key to success as an insurance adjuster.

B. If you want to be a CAT adjuster to work storms of any size, then I'd recommend a training course with that in mind.

C. Xactimate was developed by Xactware to handle all tasks related to claims adjusting. Tasks like writing claims, referencing pricing books, and the actual calculation of complete estimates no longer have to be done by hand. Instead, all of these tasks are handled by Xactimate automatically.

D. Xactimate is great for producing cost estimates contractors, for mitigation and restoration teams and professional bids for construction projects, and as a learning curve to acquire the certification.

E. All The Above.

5 / 15

Q. What is the difference between Xactimate and XactAnalysis?

A. XactAnalysis SP is a secure, online management tool for assignment receivers such as insurance repair contractors, cleaning specialists, and independent adjusters. Xactimate is used by property adjusters and contractors.

B. The XactAnalysis network is a communications system that lets insurers send assignments for property valuations and repair estimates to staff, independent adjusters, or contractors. The network automates the process, reports on progress, and speeds communication and customer service.

C. Using the XactAnalysis, you can send and track assignments, receive notification of assignment events, monitor adjuster or contractor’s performance to identify areas for improvement, view real-time company performance and industry trend reports, review completed estimate information, and perform many other critical functions.

D. All The Above.

6 / 15

Q. What is Xactimate?

A. Labor cost is what Xactimate uses to calculate the charges that a contractor/trade will allow, to cover for drive-time, setup time, etc. Xactimate will show what the labor minimums to premium for a particular trade is and then adjust that minimum to premium calculation according to the size of repair that needs to be performed with minimal labor and materials and or premium labor and material.

B. Xactimate was developed by Xactware to handle all tasks related to claims adjusting. Tasks like writing claims, referencing pricing books, and the actual calculation of complete estimates no longer have to be done by hand. Instead, all of these tasks are handled by Xactimate automatically.

C. Contractors and builders generally do not use Xactimate – they base their cost estimates on sub-contractor bids and their general knowledge about the costs and time involved in a potential job. Many contractors/builders are unfamiliar with Xactimate.

D. All The Above.

7 / 15

Q. Who uses Xactimate?

A. Adjusters and insurance companies all use Xactimate to help process property claims. Xactimate can help an adjuster to document property damage

B. From time to time, we come across discussions on whether written technical requirements are necessary for negotiating through software programs.

C. Xactimate is the largest and most difficult technical hurdle for new claims adjusters, Xactimate proficiency is key to have a success line by line detailed report.

D. All The Above.

8 / 15

Q. How does overhead affect profit?

A. Overhead expenses provide ongoing support for product production and service delivery and as result, they are sometimes called indirect expenses. Every increase in overhead reduces profits by exactly the same amount. Note that overhead can affect Gross profits, Operating Profit, and bottom-line Net Profit.

B. Profit is typically added to the cost of a construction-related job to allow the entity performing the work to grow their company through reinvestment. General Overhead and Profit percentages can be added in the Estimate Parameters window within an Xactimate estimate.

C. The subcontractor will include the cost to furnish, install and deliver equipment and appurtenances, labor including direct, fringe and burden to set and pipe the equipment, supervisory labor, materials, and equipment the general conditions and requirements necessary for the sub to complete its work.

D. Within Xactimate, general overhead and profit (O&P) for general contractors are added as percentages in the Estimate Parameters window. Subcontractor overhead and profit is intended to be included in the labor overhead portion of the retail labor rate.

9 / 15

Q. How does a contractor make money?

D. The contractor can earn gross profit on the labor as well as the product being provided by the vendor. At the same time, the contractor can be earning gross profit on the labor and the products being installed by his own crews while they get the project ready for installation of what is being built off site.

10 / 15

Q. What is the average markup on labor?

D. To keep things easy, here's a handy markup & margin table for contractors that shows you how much you need to mark things up to achieve your desired profit margin. Most general contractors are looking at about a 30-35% margin and so they need to a mark-up based on inflation with market cost.

11 / 15

Q. Who is entitled to overhead and profit?

A. The subcontractor will include the cost to furnish, install and deliver equipment and appurtenances, labor including direct, fringe and burden to set and pipe the equipment, supervisory labor, materials, and equipment the general conditions and requirements necessary for the sub to complete its work.

C. Within Xactimate, general overhead and profit (O&P) for general contractors are added as percentages in the Estimate Parameters window. Subcontractor overhead and profit is intended to be included in the labor overhead portion of the retail labor rate.

D. Overhead expenses represent those costs incurred by a general contractor to operate its business but are not attributable to any one specific job. Every general contractor is entitled to a profit, which is defined as the difference between the cost of goods and the price for which they are sold.

12 / 15

Q. What does O&P mean in insurance?

A. Direct Costs - which are the costs necessary to furnish and install the permanent elements of the project, such as structure, exterior envelope, interior finishes, vertical transportation, mechanical electrical and plumbing systems.

B. Indirect Costs - which include General Conditions or Overhead, and Markup (Fee or Profit), which are the costs associated with the jobsite management of the project, including items such as project management staff, jobsite trailers, telephones, administrative as well as temporary roads, temporary utilities, permits, fees, general hoisting, safety, and cleaning, not specifically associated with individual elements being erected.

C. Overhead, as it relates to a general contractor or construction manager refers to field office overhead or general conditions/requirements, i.e., project management staff and services.

D. Profit refers to the mark up applied by the contractor or construction manager to the total of the direct cost estimate, plus the general conditions/requirements estimate, and certain G&A costs.

E. Overhead and Profit will typically fluctuate with the market. When market conditions are not favorable to the contractor, (i.e., few construction projects being started) contractors decrease their profits to become more competitive and may take a job that will at least keep their staff busy. Overhead will be reduced as a contractor may put fewer staff on a job and will further negotiate to have subcontractors incurred more of the indirect costs at no additional cost, thus lowering overhead.

13 / 15

Q. What is Technical Writing?

A. "Technical writing, a form of technical communication, a style of writing used in fields entered into a computer software program.

B. Technical specifications are prepared to provide consistency and to instruct construction contractors on how the works are to be carried out, the quality of the workmanship and methods of quality assurance for the construction.

C. A technical specification (tech spec) is a document that explains what a product or project will do and how you'll achieve these goals.

D. All The Above.

14 / 15

Q, Is a detail line by line report important in construction?

A. Providing information about events during construction is used to evidence delivered or missed work. Having a record of day-to-day activities, problems, and resolutions are critical to successful project management. It is used for post-project debriefing, productivity management and dispute resolution.

B. Construction daily reports can refresh our memory and provide vital details from specific dates, working areas or construction tasks. By recording everyday activities such as weather, number of operatives, man-hours, progress of specific works, safety and quality issues, observations, etc.

C. Various records that need to be maintained at construction site, drawings, contract Agreement, time and Progress Charts or CPM Charts, work Orders Book, works Diary, works Passing Records, tests Results Record, cement Register.

D. It helps to keep record of the reasons behind actions you took and document the studies and analysis you performed to justify the acquisition. It's important as well to document any decision you made throughout the negotiation process that drove the final contract execution.

E. All The Above.

15 / 15

Q. What is the difference between overhead and labor?

A. The overhead rate or percentage is the sum your organization spends on making an item or providing services to its clients. Calculating the overhead rate can be done by dividing the indirect costs by the direct costs and multiply by 100.

B. To allocate the overhead costs, you first need to calculate the overhead allocation rate. This is done by dividing total overhead by the number of direct labor hours. This means for every hour needed to make a product, you need to allocate $3.33 worth of overhead to that product.

D. Your labor burden is the full cost you incur for employees. Overhead expenses are the fixed or indirect costs of running your business, such as administrative and marketing costs. Unlike labor burden, overhead expenses are not directly tied to the level of your production.

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TECHNIQUES IN HOW AM-CAT HANDLES YOUR CLAIM

Created on May 06, 2022 By

amcat

Techniques In How Am-Cat Handles Your Claim

Am-Cat's Restoration Project Leads are Am-Cat Certifed To Handle All Aspects Of The Phases Of Construction.

1 / 20

Q. How do I fix small fire damage in an attic in a Home?

A. Removal of all contents in the attic.

B. If High-Pressure, remove all insulation.

C. Application of a smoke odor counteractant to the structural material.

D. If High-Pressure, clean off heavy soot using a dry-cleaning sponge.

E. All The Above.

2 / 20

Q. How long does it take to rebuild a house?

A. In general, smaller whole house remodels will take somewhere around 7 to 10 months to complete from discovery to the end of construction, if all goes well. Larger whole house remodels will typically take around 9 to 15 months; longer if there are issues with city permits or other unforeseen delays.

B. If your house has been damaged rather than destroyed in the fire, it will need professional fire damage cleanup. Not only will direct damage from the fire need to be repaired or replaced, but heat, smoke, and soot can cause damage to your home and your possessions.

C. Depending on the square footage, the average cost to gut and remodel a house can be anywhere between $100,000 – $350,000⁴. Gut renovation cost per square foot ranges between $60 – $205 and includes new plumbing, appliances, structural improvements, a new roof and an HVAC.

D. 2015 study by the National Association of Homebuilders found the average construction cost per square foot to be $105. By that metric, rebuilding the average home would cost about $280,000.

3 / 20

Q. Is it cheaper to rebuild or renovate?

A. Knock-down rebuild has the benefit of allowing the householder to remain in the same location while enjoying the benefits of a new home,” he says. ... If you love your current suburb but want to live in a brand-new home, a knock down rebuild project may be the best option.

B. The average new home building process takes approximately seven to eight months, per the US Census Bureau. This timeframe includes finalizing plans and obtaining permits, the actual construction of the home, and the final walkthrough.

C. 2015 study by the National Association of Homebuilders found the average construction cost per square foot to be $105. By that metric, rebuilding the average home would cost about $280,000

D. When considering the possibility of a whole home remodel, part of the process is deciding whether you should invest in your current space or build a new home with the features you want. Long story short, it's almost always cheaper to renovate inside your existing home than rebuilding.

4 / 20

Q. What are the stages of a house being built?

A. Stage 1: Site preparation & foundation pour.

B. Stage 2: Rough framing.

C. Stage 3: Rough plumbing, electrical, & HVAC.

D. Stage 4: Insulation.

E. Stage 5: Drywall, interior primer finishes & begin finishes

F. Stage 6: Finish interior trim; install exterior driveways & walkways.

G. All The Above.

5 / 20

Q. How long does each stage of building a house take?

A. 2015 study by the National Association of Homebuilders found the average construction cost per square foot to be $105. By that metric, rebuilding the average home would cost about $280,000.

B. The slab or base stage: 1-3 weeks. Schedule city inspection 2-6 weeks Frame stage: 3-5 weeks. Schedule city inspection 2-6 weeks Mechanical stage: 2 weeks per trade. Schedule city inspection 2-6 weeks Close -up install all fixtures per trade stage: 4-8 weeks, Schedule city inspection 2-6 weeks Finishing stage 2-4 weeks, Punch list 2 weeks.

C. The slab or base stage: 1-3 months. Schedule city inspection 2-6 months Frame stage: 3-5 months. Schedule city inspection 2-6 months Mechanical stage: 2 months per trade. Schedule city inspection 2-6 months Close -up install all fixtures per trade stage: 4-8 months, Schedule city inspection 2-6 months Finishing stage 2-4 months, Punch list 2 months.

D. The cost to demolish a house per square foot ranges anywhere from $2 to $17 per square foot, with an average between $4 and $15. For a complete teardown of a 1,500-square-foot home, rates can range from $3,000 in a rural area to $18,000 in a densely populated city.

6 / 20

Q. How much does it cost to completely rebuild a house?

A. The average cost to demolish a house is $6,000 to $25,000. The average cost to tear down and rebuild a house is $125,000 to $450,000. Knocking down and removing a mobile home costs $2,000 to $5,000

B. Professionals can complete smaller fire repairs in a day or two, but extensive repairs can take up to several months. The size of the fire and affected household areas will determine your concrete timeline.

C. The average cost to completely renovate a house is $15,000 – $350,0004. Depending on the characteristics of the build, the price can change drastically. The final price tag typically depends on any structural or mechanical repairs, square footage, underlying issues, location, and materials used.

D. You can't demolish your house with an existing mortgage because one, you can't use a house that has been demolished as collateral anymore on a construction mortgage. So, you need to pay the first payment of the mortgage and you can acquire a construction mortgage.

7 / 20

Q. Can you reuse a foundation after a fire?

A. 2015 study by the National Association of Homebuilders found the average construction cost per square foot to be $105. By that metric, rebuilding the average home would cost about $280,000.

B. Concrete structures are more likely to remain standing through fire than are structures of other materials. Unlike wood, concrete does not burn. Unlike steel, it does not soften and bend.

C. Existing footings, slabs, and foundation systems in fire-destroyed buildings are typically compromised and are not permitted to be re-used. ... A fire can generate enough heat to damage and weaken the concrete and steel reinforcement bars in footings, slabs, and footing stem walls.

D. Commercially, fireproof concrete is made by mixing a product known as fly ash, a by-product of the production of Portland cement. You can make your own fireproof concrete with materials available at home improvement stores.

8 / 20

Q. What does insurance cover if your house burns down?

A. Professionals can complete smaller fire repairs in a day or two, but extensive repairs can take up to several months. The size of the fire and affected household areas will determine your concrete timeline.

B. Drywall repair costs $50 to $100 per square foot for small jobs and fixes. Drywall contractors charge minimum trip fees of $125 to $200.

C. Your homeowner's insurance will likely cover items destroyed in a house fire. If you have a replacement cost policy, you'll receive the actual cash value of your damaged items at the time of settlement [Replacement Cost – Depreciation = Actual Cash Value].

D. Depending on the square footage, the average cost to gut and remodel a house can be anywhere between $100,000 – $350,000⁴. Gut renovation cost per square foot ranges between $60 – $205 and includes new plumbing, appliances, structural improvements, a new roof and an HVAC.

9 / 20

Q. What steps to take to fix a fire damaged house?

A. Call the Insurance Company.

B. Assess Your Home's Structural Damage.

C. Make Sure the Property Is Secured.

D. Address Structural Repairs First.

E. Inspect and Repair the Electrical System.

F. Address Problems Specific to Fire Damage

G. Clean Up Room by Room.

H. Document Everything from Start to Finish.

I. A, B and F

J. A, B and H

K. All The Above.

10 / 20

Q. What does a general contractor project manager do?

A. Monthly Rate $10,000.00

B. Weekly Rate $2,500.00

C. Bi-Weekly Rate $5,000.00

D. Daily Rate $500.00

E. All The Above

11 / 20

Q. What are items of overhead?

A. Property tax.

B. Business insurance.

C. Interest on mortgage payments.

D. Regular janitorial services

E. Web hosting.

F. Bookkeeping services.

G. PO box rental.

H. Phone plan.

I. All The Above

12 / 20

Q. What are the essential qualifications of a contractor?

A. Contractor should have experience in providing services for a minimum of three years in the respective field. Details of company information with organization structure, list of manpower with the connections of key personnel vetted subcontractors.

B. Successful contractors have in common, servant leadership, positive work environment, attracting and retaining the best people, strategic business planning, effective business development practices, diversified and profitable mix of work, operational strength, proper capitalization.

C. Qualifications and Assumptions means, following Owner Parties' approval, Design- Builder's written statement of qualifications to, exceptions to, and assumptions in, a Pricing Amendment, all based upon the applicable Pricing Amendment Documents and the applicable Design Professional's Statement of completed Drawings.

D. All The Above.

13 / 20

Q. What is the difference between a contractor and a consultant?

A. Consulting or freelancing as an independent contractor has benefits and drawbacks. Freelancers and consultants are known as "independent contractors" in legal terms. An independent contractor (IC) is a person who contracts to perform services for others without having the legal status of an employee.

B. A consultant is usually recognized as a person who possesses the expertise and special knowledge. In return for a fee, their job is to use their knowledge and provide a specialist service. Consultants mostly work in an advisory capacity and usually, they will just come up with a solution or advice.

C. Generally, a consultant is a self-employed independent businessperson who has a special field of expertise or skill. On the other hand, a Contractor is a self-employed independent businessperson who agrees (contracts) to do work for another usually for a fixed price.

D. There is a general rule of thumb to apply when distinguishing between subcontractors and consultants. A subcontractor is hired to perform a part of the prime contractor's statement of work. Consultants are not usually hired for a specific contract.

E. All The Above.

14 / 20

Q. How Much Do Project Manager Jobs Pay per Hour?

A. Veteran Professional, Annual Salary $136,305.00 Hourly Wage $65

B. Professional, Annual Salary $94,365.00 Hourly Wage $45

C. Average, Annual Salary $73,395.00 Hourly Wage $35

D. Beginner, Annual Salary $37,746.00 Hourly Wage $18

E. All The Above

15 / 20

Q. What is included in contractor overhead?

A. Overhead is the cost of running a business. In construction, overhead typically includes the cost of subcontractors, machinery, equipment, insurances, office staff, office supplies, vehicles, and other costs.

B. Revenue is commonly referred to as sales. But revenue is any income a company generates before expenses are subtracted while sales are what the firm earns from selling goods and services to its customers.

C. Revenue sits at the top of a company's income statement, making it the top line. Profit, on the other hand, is referred to as the bottom line. Profit is lower than revenue because expenses and liabilities are deducted.

D. Some suppliers have a scale, with deeper discounts for the contractors that do a big volume of business. Discounts vary greatly, but a 10 percent discount on lumber and millwork is common, while with lighting fixtures the savings are often much higher.

16 / 20

Q. What is the difference between a general contractor and a project manager?

A. A project manager typically manages the Construction Manager and/or the General Contractor on behalf of the client. General Contractors are chosen through a bidding process by the client and are involved during construction and in the daily direction and operation of projects.

B. Do these “Construction Managers” need a license of any kind to perform such work? ... On private jobs done on private property the answer is “no”, provided that the construction manager does not contract to perform, hire others to perform, or perform itself any actual construction work.

C. The main construction project manager responsibilities are overall project planning, distributing resources, time management, risk management, creating benchmarks, managing the budget, managing staff, and managing relationships

D. All The Above.

17 / 20

Q. How much does a project manager charge for a construction project?

A. Fee means a fee or other remuneration for acting as general contractor and/or construction manager to construct improvements, supervise and coordinate projects or to provide major repairs or rehabilitation on a property.

B. A junior project manager might charge $43 per hour for their services and a senior project manager may charge $65 or more per hour for their services. Their hourly rates will depend on the amount of time spent on a project, but in general, expect to pay at least one day's wages for any job that needs to be done

C. For projects from $0 – $500,000, the project management fee totals 5%-10%. So, for a $100,000 project, you would expect to pay the project manager $5,000.00-$10,000.00. As the cost of the project goes up, the percentage-based fee decreases.

D. All The Above.

18 / 20

Q. How much are Construction Management Fees?

A. Construction Management Fee means a fee or other remuneration for acting as general contractor and/or construction manager to construct improvements, supervise and coordinate projects or to provide major repairs or rehabilitation on a property.

B. Hiring a construction manager costs an average of $24,819, or between $3,142 and $49,707. Their fee makes up 5% to 15% of the project total, though this percentage decreases for larger projects.

C. The project manager's charges will typically amount to about 10 percent of the engineering budget, and your contractor will charge a 10 and 10, 10 % for the overhead and 10% for the profit, totaling a 20%.

D. All The Above.

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Q. Can a general contractor be a project manager?

A. So, while both carry a responsibility to coordinate between different entities underneath them, general contractors and project managers operate at different levels in the construction management process. In some construction projects, general contractors serve in a project management role

B. Project Managers are usually persons hired by an owner of a construction project to supervise and oversee as well as consult for the owner on the organization and implementation of a construction project.

C. The key difference between a General Contractor (GC) and a Construction Manager (CM) is that a GC will be a business entity, and a CM will be an individual. ... While both are important to a successful construction project, it's easiest to understand the differentiations by taking a look at each role.

D. All The Above.

20 / 20

Q. What is a general contractor for construction?

A. Typically, the General Contractor is the individual or company that manages all aspects of the day-to-day activities at the jobsite. They are in charge of actually building the building. General Contractors have their own employees who typically fill the roles of project manager and Construction Superintendent.

B. The manager for any building or renovation project, of the carpenter, electrician, drywaller, plastering, painter, wallpaper Installer, heating, and Air-Conditioning (HVAC), etc.

C. Is responsible for planning, leading, executing, supervising, and inspecting a building construction project. The responsibility extends from the beginning to the end of the project, regardless of its scope.

D. All The Above.

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THE DAMAGES FIRE CAN DO

Created on April 30, 2022 By

amcat

The Damages Fire Can Do

Am-Cat Restoration Fire remediation break down of your common Fire related issues throughout your Home or Property.

1 / 15

Q. What is fire damage?

A. Rain that gets through your roof and damages your ceiling and walls A burst pipe that saturates your ceiling · Mudflow; An overflow of tidal or inland waters.

B. Generally, most damage caused by wind in any type of storm is considered wind damage and is covered under a homeowner’s policy. Damaging winds can cause destruction to roofs, windows and more.

C. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.

D. Fire damage refers to the physical damage to a property as a result of burning. This damage may either be directly caused by the flames or could occur due to smoke and other corrosive substances emitted by the fire. In terms of insurance, fire damage is one of the types of coverage offered in property insurance.

2 / 15

Q. Why do house fires happen at night?

A. Areas most susceptible to flash flooding are mountainous streams and rivers, urban areas, low-lying area, storm drains, and culverts. This type of flood is caused by a gradual increase in water level of a river or creek.

B. One common cause of home floods is faulty drainage systems. The clogging of toilets, sinks, and showers can have more of an impact on your plumbing than one may think. The clogging of the drainage systems in your home can expose the house flooring, fixtures, and walls to extensive water damage.

C. Spring storms are juicier and stronger than summer ones, so they don't need the sun's daytime heat to add that extra kick of energy to spur tornadoes.

D. Bedroom - many bedroom fires start due to smoking in bed. Chimney - the buildup of creosote on the inside of chimneys is flammable and causes many fires. Living room - common causes include smoking, sparks from the fireplace lighting nearby objects such as blankets or a Christmas tree.

3 / 15

Q. What usually survives a house fire?

A. Most standard homeowners’ insurance policies include dwelling coverage, which may help pay to repair or rebuild your home if wind from a tornado damage it. On the other hand, personal property coverage may help pay to repair or replace damaged or destroyed belongings that were inside your home.

B. If the hurricane's speeds go above 157 mph, catastrophic damage can occur. The winds can flatten your entire house and trees and power poles will be destroyed.

C. Generally, any item that's strong enough to survive the heat and the flames without absorbing water and smoke is completely salvageable after a fire. It might be a little stained, but it's nothing a little cleaning won't fix. If you need help cleaning up after a fire, contact a home restoration specialist.

D. Floods often deposit dirt and microorganisms throughout the house. Silt and sediment can create short circuits in the electrical system as gunk collects in walls and in the spaces behind each switch box and outlet. Appliances, furnaces, and lighting fixtures also fill with mud, making them dangerous to use.

4 / 15

Q. Where do most house fires start?

A. Home fires are more likely to start in the kitchen than any other room in the home. The second leading cause of home fires are heating sources like wood stoves, and fireplaces. Fires caused by smoking are the leading cause of deaths.

B. Home fires are more likely to start in the basement than any other room in the home. The second leading cause of home fires are heating sources like wood stoves, and fireplaces. Fires caused by smoking are the leading cause of deaths.

C. Home fires are more likely to start in the bedroom than any other room in the home. The second leading cause of home fires are heating sources like wood stoves, and fireplaces. Fires caused by smoking are the leading cause of deaths.

D. Home fires are more likely to start in the bathroom than any other room in the home. The second leading cause of home fires are heating sources like wood stoves, and fireplaces. Fires caused by smoking are the leading cause of deaths.

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Q. How can we prevent fire accidents?

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A. Unplug Items You're Not Using. Excess electricity flowing through items in your home can always be a potential fire hazard.

B. Use surge protectors.

C. Never leave flames unattended.

D. Keep flammable items away from heat.

E. Don't Smoke in the Home.

F. Put out the fire.

G. Cut the clutter.

H. Remove lint and change filters.

I. All The Above.

6 / 15

Q. How do electrical outlets catch on fire?

A. It can happen due to loose or corroded wires, wetness, or unplugging something from an overloaded outlet, and may even result in a fire. If the outlets are wired correctly, have been tightly secured, and stand in perfect condition, the chances of it catching fire are bleak.

B. Mold is a type of plant fungus that can decay walls, and mites are a type of insect pest that can also eat away at walls. Both favor areas with little light and ventilation with damp conditions. Thus, the small area of the wall that is behind electrical outlets can attract and be a haven for mold and mites.

C. Even a small amount of flooding can cause water to come into contact with one or more of the electrical outlets around your home. A leak in your roof can also cause water to pool in certain areas of the home.

D. If your outlet has short circuited or been overloaded, then your circuit breaker may have shut off its power. Check other nearby outlets to see if they are working. If they also are dead, then go to your circuit breaker. When a circuit breaker has tripped, the lever will usually flip to the middle or off position.

7 / 15

Q. How do you handle a Fire with your insurance companies?

A. File Your Claim as Soon as Possible. It is crucial to comply with your policy and file your claim within the appropriate timeframe.

B. Request an Advance.

C. Secure Your Property and Mitigate Damages.

D. Keep Track of Your Expenses.

E. Don't Feel Rushed, and be patient it’s a process

F. All The Above.

8 / 15

Q. What kind of policy covers fire damage?

A. Water damage covered by homeowners’ insurance typically includes Burst pipes. This might include a frozen pipe that bursts, but not if you neglected to keep the home properly heated. Accidental leaks, such as leaking plumbing or an appliance leak, like a broken washing machine or dishwasher.

B. Homeowners insurance typically helps protect personal belongings from specific risks (described in most policies as "perils"), such as fire and lightning strikes. If your belongings are damaged or destroyed in a fire, homeowners’ insurance may help pay to repair or replace them.

C. Mold coverage isn't guaranteed by your homeowners insurance policy. Typically, mold damage is only covered if it's related to a covered peril. Mold damage caused by flooding would need to be covered by a separate flood insurance policy.

D. Is Wind Damage Covered by Home Insurance? Yes, as noted above, homeowners’ insurance typically covers most types of wind damage. Usually, the dwelling coverage of your homeowner’s policy will help pay to repair or replace damage to the roof, siding or windows due to a wind event.

9 / 15

Q. What does insurance pay for after a fire?

10 / 15

Q. How do you prove smoke damage?

small loss Adjuster out with our PA Cliff 1

A. Date of Loss.

B. Type of Loss or Damage.

C. Location of Damage.

D. Any Related Injuries.

E. Others Involved.

F. Condition of the Home.

G. Description of Damaged Contents.

H. Whether or Not Temporary Repairs or Complete Replacements Are Necessary.

I. All The Above.

11 / 15

Q. What are the 3 main causes of fire?

A. Cooking fires are the leading cause of home fires by far, accounting for 48% of all reported residential fires.

B. Electrical Heaters hooked up with extension cords.

C. Smoking in the home

D. Burning Candles.

E. All The Above.

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Q. How does fire affect a structure?

A. The temperature of the fire can cause the affected parts of the building to significantly expand – more than the amount for which they were designed to do. This kind of movement and expansion is likely to result in cracking or structural damage.

B. Water damage can cause structural damage and mold growth, both of which are dangerous to the residents living in the property. It is important for the safety of those residing in the building that water damage be cleaned up right away.

C. The same conditions that promote the growth of mold invite decay fungi to rot wood and other organic materials. The presence of mold and dispersion of mold spores will reduce the indoor air quality of your home. Mold will also cause unsightly stains and unpleasant odors. It will not, however, cause structural damage.

D. High wind pressures can collapse doors and windows, rip off roofing and roof decking and destroy gable end walls. Roof overhangs and other features that tend to trap air beneath them, resulting in high uplift forces, are particularly susceptible to damage.

13 / 15

Q. How can fire damage a building?

A. Often times that type of water infiltration takes years to completely deteriorate the structural framing to the point where there's a collapse.

B. Mold may cause serious structural damage to a building because it feeds on and breaks down organic matter. Therefore, when mold infests walls, insulation, paper backing, or carpeting, the materials must be removed. Cleaning and removal causes great expense and inconvenience, but is often necessary.

C. Fires can result in the production or exposure of hazardous materials, and a fire-damaged historic building may contain residues of asbestos, lead oxides, chromium, nickel, and arsenic, as well as combustion products from more modern materials such as dioxins and isocyanates.

D. Wind forces can break the building's load path or punch a hole in the building envelope. Sometimes the actual force of high winds can cause a door or window to break open. Other times nearby debris can be picked up in the wind and projected against the building envelope.

14 / 15

Q. How do you repair fire damage?

A. Assess the Degree of Damage.

B. Isolate Unsafe Areas.

C. Remove Water and Dry the Area.

D. Remove Soot and Smoke Residue.

E. Sanitize and Clean.

F. Fire Damage Restoration.

G. All The Above.

15 / 15

Q. What are types of fire damage?

A. Wall water damage can come from outside sources, such as a storm, or inside, such as a burst pipe. If left unaddressed, any water damage can cause structural issues to your drywall and lead to mold. With the help of water damage professionals, wall water damage doesn't have to become a larger issue.

B. Exposure to a large number of mold spores may cause allergic symptoms such as watery eyes, runny nose, sneezing, itching, coughing, wheezing, difficulty breathing, headache, and fatigue. Repeated exposure to mold can increase a person's sensitivity, causing more severe allergic reactions.

C. There are three types of fire damage. The first is damage caused by flames, the second is damage caused by smoke, and finally the damage caused by substance and the act of extinguishing the fire. All three types come with their own problems, so it's important to understand what they are and how they affect your home.

D. Most thunderstorm winds that cause damage at the ground are a result of outflow generated by a thunderstorm downdraft. Damaging winds are classified as those exceeding 50-60 mph.

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THE DAMAGES WATER CAN DO

Created on April 28, 2022 By

amcat

The Damages Water Can Do

Am-Cat Restoration water remediation break down of your common water issues throughout your Home and or Buildings.

1 / 15

Q. Can a floor collapse from water damage?

A. The standing water can cause the flooring and sheetrock below to be compromised and it could collapse altogether. For this reason, a professional should scope out the situation before you enter freely if you do in fact live in a multi-level establishment.

B. With very little wiggle room, beams that heat up during fires could press up against their uncompromising boundaries, potentially breaking their connections and causing floors to collapse. To better prepare buildings for worst-case scenarios, structural designs may need to account for the forces introduced by fires

C. This can include paper, fabrics, and wood. This includes wallpaper, drywall, carpeting, ceiling tiles, wooden paneling, wall studs, floorboards, and other vital structures inside your home. Mold damage causes ceilings to collapse, floors to cave in and walls to fall.

D. While damage from snow is typically restricted to roof collapses, wind has the potential to cause a wide range of failures, including wall collapses and the detachment of cladding and roof coverings.

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Q. Can water damage fix itself?

A. When a fire causes major damage to your home, such as when it starts in one room and spreads to others, it can take days – or even weeks – to repair. Generally speaking, a small house can take around three months or more to repair and get back into livable condition.

B. Hitting the nail on the head, we'd like to tell you that a water-damaged phone cannot repair itself. It might only work for some time if the water didn't penetrate sensitive components of the phone.

C. It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors.

D. Signs of wind damage on a roof include loose or missing shingles, chimney issues, curling or peeling shingles, granule loss, damaged soffit or fascia and indoor leaks. High winds can also cause tree branches to fall and damage a roof. Like hail, wind can cause loss of granules (the sandpaper-like part of the shingle).

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Q. How long does it take for mold to grow after water damage?

A. Generally, mold can grow significantly within 14 to 18 hours after water damage. Mold can take hold of your home and grow rapidly within 2 days if it has the ideal conditions it needs to thrive.

B. Generally, mold can grow significantly within 4 to 8 hours after water damage. Mold can take hold of your home and grow rapidly within 1 days if it has the ideal conditions it needs to thrive.

C. Generally, mold can grow significantly within 44 to 88 hours after water damage. Mold can take hold of your home and grow rapidly within 22 days if it has the ideal conditions it needs to thrive.

D. Generally, mold can grow significantly within 24 to 48 hours after water damage. Mold can take hold of your home and grow rapidly within 12 days if it has the ideal conditions it needs to thrive.

4 / 15

Q. Is drywall ruined if it gets wet?

A. No, after you are done hanging your drywall, you need to make sure that you mud and primer it before applying any coat of paint. After all of those steps have been complete, you can begin the process of painting your drywall.

B. Extensive discoloration, bulging, sagging, damp smells and mold are all signs that your drywall may have suffered irreparable water damage. Removing the moisture source is the priority, but a drywall replacement is often the next step.

C. If the physical damage is large and severe enough, it might not be worth it (or possible) to simply repair the drywall. However, more often than not, the main reason to replace drywall has to do with other forms of damage, namely moisture.

D. While drywall is made of some pretty sturdy stuff, it can sustain damage when exposed to water for too long. If moisture damage isn't addressed swiftly, the structural integrity of the drywall becomes compromised, causing it to become soft, weak and susceptible to mold growth.

5 / 15

Q. Does water damage in the wall mean mold growth?

A. Unless you are quickly wiping up a spilled glass of water, you can bet water damage will cause mold. It loves standing water, and in less than a day, it will start to grow. Mold will not stop growing unless it is physically removed. It is a system that only gets larger and larger in the presence of moisture.

B. Damage from a flood or a fire may leave your home vulnerable to mold. In nature, mold's only purpose is to break down organic matter. It needs moderate temperatures, the right amount of humidity and lower light levels.

C. The 48–72-hour window is critical to prevent mold growth as it usually takes 24 to 48 hours for mold to germinate and grow. Once fungus gets a hold on a drywall surface, it can be the breeding ground for thousands of spores and quickly spread in the air around the wall with every passing hour.

D. Some black mold can also take on shades of orange or have flecks of white within it. Most of the time, black mold has a slightly furry appearance. Larger growths of mold may appear as a black stain that stretches along your wall, floor or ceiling.

6 / 15

Q. What are three ways that water can cause destruction?

A. Water seepage though basement walls.

B. Leaks through walls at areas like doors and windows.

C. Roof leaks, usually through penetrations and flashing errors.

D. Plumbing leaks, an outlier but relevant.

E. All The Above.

7 / 15

Q. How does water damage a home?

A. Water damage in a house can be truly disastrous. Left unchecked, even a slow leak will rot out drywall and studs, create black mold, and eventually weaken major structural elements like joists and beams. Stopping leaks before that first drop of water starts is the best way to prevent water damage.

B. Mold can eat away at materials like wallpaper, drywall, carpet, wooden studs in walls, ceiling tiles, floorboards, and other structures inside the home. Left unchecked, mold can cause damage great enough to lead to the collapse of ceilings, caving in of floorboards, and falling down of walls.

C. Fires can destroy your property and cause irreversible damage. The flames move from item to item burning everything to a crisp char. The heat produced by the flames will radiate and cause surrounding items to melt, crack and even shatter. After the flames have been put out, you are then left with smoke damage.

D. When high winds hit a roof, shingles can loosen or fall off. If wind speeds are very high, even new, secure shingles can tear away. Other wind damage to a roof includes damage caused by falling objects and debris such as tree branches and downed powerlines.

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Q. Does water damage get worse over time?

A. The longer the damage stays, the more the damage will spread. It will cause the ceiling to discolor and begin to develop bulges, mold will grow. Thus, the damage will spread to the walls, which will also begin to discolor and develop mold, until eventually, the whole thing is irreparable and needs to be replaced.

B. Mildew and mold will develop within 24-48 hours of water exposure. Even worse, it will continue to grow until steps are taken to eliminate the source of moisture, and effectively deal with the mold problem.

C. 65+ mph: The highest risk of damages to homes and businesses occurs when wind speeds reach 65 mph or greater. Heavy to severe structural and tree damage occur and travel is dangerous.

D. It is very important to begin the restoration of your property as soon as possible after a fire because the structural damage and damage from corrosive byproducts will continue to get worse.

9 / 15

Q. What happens when water gets in your walls?

A. Surface Changes and Deterioration – Your walls' appearance can change significantly if there's mold growth behind them. In addition to discoloration and stains, your walls may deteriorate. Paint or wallpaper can crack, peel, or bubble because of moisture and mold growth

B. You'll know if your home is in danger of an electrical fire if you see (or smell) these signs: Circuit breaker keeps tripping. Persisting burnt smell with no identifiable source. Several discolored or charred outlets and switches.

C. Rodents living within walls do emerge in search of food. At this time, homeowners may capture or kill mice through the use of traps. Homeowners may also lure mice out of walls with food bait. Spring-loaded traps, glue traps and live-catch traps are commercially available.

D. Within hours, water can cause damage you'll never see from outside. Water can get into your framing materials, insulation and drywall, causing mold, electrical hazards, rotting, and corrosion. Ironically, wall water damage can cause fires because of electrical damage.

10 / 15

Q. How can you tell if a wall has water damage?

A. Visible Wet Spots. One of the major signs of water damage is wet spots on the walls within your home.

B. Streaks of Color on the Walls.

C. Cracking Walls.

D. Bubbling Paint.

E. Soft Walls.

F. Running Water Inside Your Walls.

G. A Musty Or Damp scent.

H. Higher Water Bills.

I. All The Above.

11 / 15

Q. What is the most common cause of water damage?

A. A fire accident can be caused by many hazards, such as a propane tank, a defective product, a vehicle crash, or poor workplace safety. Because burns can be the result of many kinds of accidents, there isn't a standard legal process for dealing with them, other than filing a negligence or workers compensation claim.

B. Thunderstorms are the most common source of wind damage and are responsible for over half of all related damage cases. However, winds from hurricanes or tornadoes are stronger, can cause more damage, and have much higher repair costs.

C. Mold behind drywall may be one of the most common household problem areas as drywall, wood, and cotton are ideal food sources. Ceiling mold is also highly common due to a lack of ventilation and accumulation of moisture.

D. A leak at any point in the plumbing system is the commonest cause of water damage. It is common for leaks to occur when pipes rust resulting in corrosion. Other causes of water leaks include high water pressures, weak pipe joints, extreme temperatures, and broken water connectors.

12 / 15

Q. Is water damage serious?

A. Mold may cause serious structural damage to a building because it feeds on and breaks down organic matter. Therefore, when mold infests walls, insulation, paper backing, or carpeting, the materials must be removed. Cleaning and removal cause great expense and inconvenience but is often necessary.

B. Leaving water damage untreated can cause serious structural problems to your home and create harmful health risks for you and your family. If your home has sustained any type of water damage, you should contact a professional right away.

C. Severe Thunderstorms producing straight line wind damage can be dangerous. Most businesses and homes will not sustain damage in such winds. However, damage from other objects, such as trees or powerlines can occur and be dangerous.

D. A fire in your home can cause serious damage. Your home and many of the things in your home may be badly damaged by flames, heat, smoke, and water. You will find things not damaged by the fire may still be ruined by smoke and may be soggy with water used to put out the fire.

13 / 15

Q. What are the signs of water damage?

A. Dark or Wet Spots.

B. Cracking, Bubbling, or Flaking

C. Pooling Water or Puddles.

D. Sounds of Running Water.

E. Increase in Utility Bills.

F. Damp, Musty, or Moldy Smell.

G. All The Above.

14 / 15

Q. How do you fix water damage?

A. Clean the area. before you start a project like this, give the water damaged area a good clean.

B. Clear and scrape any flaking in the area.

C. Cover water damaged area with A peel-stop / sealer binder.

D. Apply filler.

E. Sand surface.

F. Apply water-based primer / sealer.

G. Apply paint.

H. All The Above.

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Q. What damage does water cause?

A. Water damage affects buildings on so many levels. When water creeps into areas of your property where it shouldn't be, your floor could warp. Water damage also discolors beautifully painted walls. All that moisture can also lead not only to the formation of mold inside the building but also to a vermin infestation.

B. For people sensitive to mold, inhaling or touching mold spores can cause allergic reactions, including sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash. People with serious mold allergies may have more severe reactions, including shortness of breath.

C. Fatal heat levels are not the only danger of fire. During a home fire, there's an increased level of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide as well as damaging levels of chemical and thermal irritants. These irritants can permanently damage a person's or animal's respiratory system and cause death.

D. High winds can cause hazards to your property and surrounding areas - hazards such as fallen branches, uprooted trees and torn down power lines. While these dangers are what we picture after a big storm, the wind itself can also result in structural damage to your home.

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THE DAMAGES A SEVERE THUNDER STORM CAN DO

Created on May 23, 2022 By

amcat

The Damages Wind Can Do

Am-Cat Restoration Wind remediation break down of your common Wind related Severe Stoms that compromise your Home or Property.

1 / 14

Q. What is a Category 1 storm?

A. A Category 1 hurricane has wind speeds of between 111 and 129 mph and is considered a major storm. Devastating damage will occur. Well-built frame homes may sustain major damage or removal of roof decking and gable ends. Many trees will be snapped or uprooted, blocking numerous roads.

B. Category 1 hurricanes have winds of 96 mph to 110 mph. A major problem with Category 1 hurricanes is that winds are strong enough to break power poles — which can, in turn, create blackouts. Category 1 hurricane winds can also cause damage to residential roofs, windows, and doors.

C. Category 1 hurricane: Very dangerous winds will produce some damage. In a Category 1 hurricane, winds range from 74 to 95 mph. Falling debris could strike people, livestock and pets, and older mobile homes could be destroyed.

D. Category 1 hurricanes pack the strongest winds but only a handful have been recorded making landfall in the United States. Category 1 hurricanes pack the strongest winds but only a handful have been recorded making landfall in the United States.

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Q. Is a tree falling on a house covered by insurance?

A. Typically, winds as fast as 70-90 mph (miles per hour) are the starting point for wind that can cause roof damages. However, sometimes a gust at 50 mph can give your roof a beating.

B. If a tree hits your home or other insured structure, such as a detached garage, your standard homeowner’s insurance policy covers the damage to the structure, as well as any damage to the contents. This is true for trees felled by wind, lightning, or hail.

C. Consider staying put. 30mph and 45mph winds can be strong enough to make driving dangerous, never mind when a storm's coming in and winds can reach in excess of 80mph. If the winds are strong, consider avoiding travel altogether, especially if your journey involves long distances, motorways, or an abundance of bridges.

D. Roof damage, including the removal of shingles, siding, and gutters. Smaller trees may be uprooted, too. Straight-line winds are non-rotating winds, and damage is noticeably different than damage from a tornado. For example, trees impacted by straight-line winds will be lying flat in one direction.

3 / 14

Q. Does insurance cover natural disasters?

A. Even if your roof is newly installed or properly maintained, extreme rainfall and intense winds may cause water penetration and roof leaks. The areas on your roof where there are penetrations and seams will be the sources of the leaks during an intense storm.

B. Leaks caused by improper installation can include the roof membrane, roof flashing, roof vents or chimney, although these can be punctured by various things. The most common problem with these areas is poor installation of materials. Falling limbs or trees, hail or other objects can cause major damage to a roof.

C. Clogged gutters can rot fascia boards and make it easier for water to enter the property and cause damage to ceilings, windows, woodwork and walls. Many of these are serious problems which can impact the structural integrity of your home and in the worst case, potentially cause thousands of pounds worth of damage.

D. Your home insurance policy covers many natural disasters and weather events, including wind, hail, lightning strikes and wildfires. However, it does not cover damage caused by floods or earthquakes. You would need a separate policy for each of these perils.

4 / 14

Q. What are common roof problems?

C. There are a handful of potential issues—old or torn shingles, worn-out flashing, clogged gutters, and more—that will degrade the roof. It's a gradual process—first a loose shingle or worn piece of flashing lets in a little water, then decay develops, and soon you have water ruining your house.

D. A clogged gutter which isn't draining properly allows water to build up until it becomes too heavy. Trapped water can get up under the roof coating, causing damage to the edge of your roof's surface and the underlying materials. Over time, you'll notice signs of water damage in your home's interior.

5 / 14

Q. What wind speed causes roof damage?

B. Standard residential windows have DP values between 15 and 50. A DP 15 window can reasonably be expected to sustain winds of roughly 77 mph before shattering. A DP 50 window is expected to sustain winds up to 173 mph.

C. Typically, winds as fast as 70-90 mph (miles per hour) are the starting point for wind that can cause roof damages. However, sometimes a gust at 50 mph can give your roof a beating.

6 / 14

Q. What are signs of roof damage?

A. Collection of Granules. As your roof ages, the granules loosen due to time and the elements.

B. Leaky/Clogged Gutters.

C. Broken, Cracked, or Curling Shingles.

D. Missing Shingles.

E. Hail Damage.

F. Water Damage on Walls or Ceilings

G. Problems in the Attic.

H. The Extent of Shingle Damage.

I. All The Time.

7 / 14

Q. Do insurance companies pay out for storm damage?

A. Typically, winds as fast as 70-90 mph (miles per hour) are the starting point for wind that can cause roof damages. However, sometimes a gust at 50 mph can give your roof a beating

B. Sustained wind speeds around 20 mph, or frequent gusts of 25 to 30 mph. " No Discernable Threat to Life and Property from High Wind." The sustain wind speeds are non-threatening; "breezy" conditions may still be present. Note: In "High Wind" conditions, small branches break off trees and loose objects are blown about.

C. Even if your roof is newly installed or properly maintained, extreme rainfall and intense winds may cause water penetration and roof leaks. The areas on your roof where there are penetrations and seams will be the sources of the leaks during an intense storm.

D. Yes, buildings and contents insurance policies usually cover against storm damage. And if your home is left uninhabitable, your insurer should pay for alternative accommodation until they repair the house, and you can move back in. Some might exclude fences, garden sheds, gates, and hedges.

8 / 14

Q. What do I do if I have storm damage?

A. Check Your House Exterior.

B. Check Inside Your Home.

C. Look for Other Types of Damage.

D. Take Pictures.

E. Don't Throw Anything Away.

F. Call Your Insurance Company.

G. Protect Your Home from More Damage.

H. All The Above.

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Q. Can 50 mph winds cause damage?

A. Typically, winds as fast as 70-90 mph (miles per hour) are the starting point for wind that can cause roof damages. However, sometimes a gust at 50 mph can give your roof a beating.

C. 50-75 mph – At 50+ MPH winds are officially classified as “damaging”. Shingles will be blown off. Tree limbs and other debris will be picked up. Damaged or water-saturated trees will start to fall.

D. A strong gale of wind blows at 47-54 mph and becomes a bigger threat to your home, particularly the shingles on your roof. According to FEMA, your roof, along with your doors, windows and garage are the four most wind-damaged areas of a home.

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Q. Can I claim for storm damage?

B. As soon as you can, you need to tell your insurance company that your property has been damaged and you want to make a claim. Most insurers have 24-hour 1-800.claim lines, and they should be geared up to deal with the fallout from the storm, as forecasters have been talking about it for days.

D. Fixing a leak either from the inside or outside only offers temporary relief. It amounts to buying time and won't do permanent replacement of the entire roof. Before you call the roofer or hire any professional roofing experts, you can apply this transient method to fix your damaged roof from the inside.

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Q. How can you tell if you have wind damaged shingles?

A. Missing shingles

C. Thin horizontal lines where granules have been worn off about 1-2 inches beneath the shingle above; this could indicate that the shingle seal was broken, and the shingle was flapping in the wind rubbing against the shingle above it.

D. Standard residential windows have DP values between 15 and 50. A DP 15 window can reasonably be expected to sustain winds of roughly 77 mph before shattering. A DP 50 window is expected to sustain winds up to 173 mph.

E. A & B

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Q. How much damage can Wind do?

A. Clogged gutters can rot fascia boards and make it easier for water to enter the property and cause damage to ceilings, windows, woodwork and walls. Many of these are serious problems which can impact the structural integrity of your home and in the worst case, potentially cause thousands of pounds worth of damage.

B. Wind speeds averaging 76-87 km/h can break large branches off trees, dislodge roofing and cause crests of waves to start toppling over in open water. Wind speeds of 88-102 km/h are capable of uprooting trees and causing significant structural damage to buildings.

C. Sustained wind speeds around 20 mph, or frequent gusts of 25 to 30 mph. " No Discernable Threat to Life and Property from High Wind." The sustain wind speeds are non-threatening; "breezy" conditions may still be present. Note: In "High Wind" conditions, small branches break off trees and loose objects are blown about.

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Q. What type of damage can wind cause?

A. Sustained wind speeds around 20 mph, or frequent gusts of 25 to 30 mph. " No Discernable Threat to Life and Property from High Wind." The sustain wind speeds are non-threatening; "breezy" conditions may still be present. Note: In "High Wind" conditions, small branches break off trees and loose objects are blown about.

B. Even if your roof is newly installed or properly maintained, extreme rainfall and intense winds may cause water penetration and roof leaks. The areas on your roof where there are penetrations and seams will be the sources of the leaks during an intense storm.

C. Fixing a leak either from the inside or outside only offers temporary relief. It amounts to buying time and won't do permanent replacement of the entire roof. Before you call the roofer or hire any professional roofing experts, you can apply this transient method to fix your damaged roof from the inside.

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Q. What is Wind Damage?

A. What Is Considered Wind Damage Under a Homeowners Policy? Generally, most damage caused by wind in any type of storm is considered wind damage and is covered under a homeowner’s policy. Damaging winds can cause destruction to roofs, windows and more.

B. Attempting to walk in 60-70mph winds is dangerous, and there is a high risk of being blown over and suffering injury. Stay away from difficult underfoot conditions or exposed edges and get off the hill as soon as possible.

C. A typical car might struggle to maintain balance during a windstorm and may get flipped over due to strong winds. However, a vehicle with enough weight inside it may not display the same results.

D. High winds will affect handling and braking. Driving slowly will help you to maintain control of your car, even when a sudden gust comes along. Areas of road which are open and not protected by buildings tend to be susceptible to strong gusts of wind.

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Am-Cat Restoration Garage Installations Rebuilds and Door Motor and Concrete Slab Installations

Created on August 08, 2022 By

amcat

Am-Cat Restoration Garage Installations Rebuilds and Door Motor and Concrete Slab Installations

Am-Cat Garage certification program is designed to provide the correct techniques in responding to garage damages and rebuilds caused by, unexpected fire damage and related catastrophes, and or newly built garades.

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Q. What to know before building a garage?

A. Zoning Laws. The first thing you want to do before you pick out any garage plan or materials is to check the zoning laws.

B. Purpose.

C. Ventilation.

D. Car Size.

E. Attached or detached.

F. Picking a Garage Plan.

G. All The Above.

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Q. How much does it cost to dig a trench for electrical wire?

A. The average cost to dig 100 linear feet of the trench is $800. Smaller projects can run as little as $400, while more expensive ones are about $1,200. The cost per linear foot ranges between $4 and $12.

B. Am-cats might start with a shovel or mattock to loosen the ground. Or, if you're lucky and the ground isn't too solid, you can go directly in with a trenching spade. Your trench only needs to be as wide as the conduit or cable you're using.

C. Water the soil for 1 hour the day before excavation, use a trenching shovel to quickly excavate the trench and use a pick mattock to dig up rocks and break through tough soil.

D. Garages must have at least one outdoor receptacle at the front and rear of the house. They must be readily accessible from the ground and positioned no more than 6 1/2 feet above grade (ground level).

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Q. Does a garage door opener need its own circuit?

A. At least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be installed to supply receptacle outlets in attached garages and detached garages with electric power. Code Change Summary: A new code section was added to require a 20-amp circuit for a dwelling unit garage.

B. When running Romex through garages, it must be insulated to ensure that the wire doesn't get damaged. As for the question of whether Romex can touch insulation or not, yes, it can. However, it is important to remember that the insulation shouldn't come in contact with the copper inside.

C. No, a garage door opener is not required to be on a separate, dedicated circuit. But, the ceiling receptacle outlet that it's plugged into must be GFCI-protected.

D. GFCI protection is not required for receptacles that are not readily accessible, such as a ceiling-mounted receptacle for a garage door opener. Nor are they required for a receptacle on a dedicated branch circuit located and identified for a cord-and-plug-connected appliance, such as a refrigerator or freezer.

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Q. Can you add to the existing foundation?

A. In most areas of the United States, garage footers are usually dug 36 inches below the final grade. The footer size is typically 20 inches wide and 8 inches deep.

B. The concrete slab should be four inches thick at least; it needs to be thicker if heavy equipment will rest on it. Building codes offer requirements for the concrete mix, which vary by region.

C. You can absolutely reuse an existing slab if you are looking to save yourself on the cost of the new home construction. There are several reasons why reusing an old existing slab foundation might be acceptable which Aveling Homes, a builder in Perth recommends.

D. There are also some other techniques used for strengthening a reinforced concrete slab such as: Increasing the shear bearing capacity of the slab by adding steel plates strengthened by vertical screw bolts, and by strengthening the slab by post-stressed reinforcement, and adding steel beams or the industry calls rebar.

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Q. Does house wrap stop moisture?

A. House wrap helps prevent moisture from entering through the walls of the home. It also acts as a protective casing around the house by covering gaps and cracks that are found between the sheathing and insulation.

B. House wrap creates a protective barrier against air infiltration and unwanted liquid moisture, the manufacturer says, but it also allows water vapor to escape from the walls. It's translucent to make staple location simple and resists tears in all directions, so it can stand up to windy conditions.

C. Seal the bottom of the garage and wrap it to the sheathing with caulk or tape. Overlap the layers shingle-style as you go up the wall—like roofing shingles. Overlap vertical seams 6-12 inches. Overlap horizontal seams 6 inches (upper layer over lower layer).

D. Another possible source of the water behind the house wrap is interior humidity that has a direct path to the exterior. You indicated you moved into the home, yet it's not finished. You live in a cold climate and the interior relative humidity is almost always higher in the inside of your home than it is outside.

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Q. Steps to take after a Garage fire?

A. Assessing the damage.

B. Cleaning or drying any affected contents

C. Remove all Damaged articles.

D. Inventory all damaged contents.

E. Deal with city administrated officials.

F. Schedule construction repairs.

G. Retain funds from the insurance company.

H. All The Above.

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Q. How much is a 2.5-car garage?

A. A 2.5-car garage is a popular option that allows a small amount of workspace in 520 to 744 square feet and has an average cost of $25,800 to $52,000.

B. The average 2-car garage costs between $19,600 and $28,200 to build with most homeowners spending about $20,000. The final price depends on the size, and if it's attached or detached.

C. When you dig into the overall price of the garage, you will find that it is more expensive to build a garage for the first automobile. A two-car garage costs less than twice as much as a one-car garage and adding a third bay is even less expensive.

D. A 2.5-car garage is definitely the ideal choice if you're a gearhead or mechanic. If you're wondering how much room you have to work with, a 2.5-car garage should be big enough to suit your needs, usually measuring around 24 feet wide by 26 feet deep (24' x 26').

E. Your average, everyday 3-car detached garage will be about 22×32, with those couple extra feet offering just enough breathing room to snugly fit your three cars. However, many people opt to go even larger, in order to comfortably give you space to open the doors without hitting the walls or the car in the next bay.

F. A two-car garage costs an average of $52 per square foot to build. Custom garage construction costs, like a slab foundation, security system, and livable loft space, meaning you could pay between $35 and $90 per square foot.

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Q. Does a garage slab need footings?

A. A garage foundation is typically made of a concrete block wall and poured concrete. It is the most important key to supporting the structural integrity of the garage.

B. A footing will almost always be required when building a garage with a second floor. Generally, you pour perimeter footings to support the weight of the framing and roof. The footing is there solely to support the structure. You then pour the garage slab separately.

C. Including rebar in a concrete footing means that you can reduce the risk of the concrete being pushed and pulled apart – cracking – from ground force pressures. Knowing this, it is generally a good idea to use rebar in footings for any structure. However, it is not required in many cases.

D. The footing is what's actually in contact with the ground, while the foundation is the structure that transfers the load to the earth.

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Q. What size breaker do I need for an electric car charger?

A. Your home will be able to have an electric car charger installed if you want to use a Level 1 (110-volt) or Level 2 (240-volt) charger. A Level 1 charger is a cable that runs from your vehicle into a regular household plugin.

B. Depending on the car, you may be able to eke out 30+ hours of idling before you run a tank from full to empty.

C. All mass-produced electric vehicles today include a charging unit that you are able to plug into any standard 110-volt outlet. This unit makes it possible to charge your EV from regular household outlets. The downside of EV charging with a 110-volt outlet is that it takes a while.

D. The National Electrical Code requires an electrical circuit to be rated for 25% greater amperage than your charger's output. For example, if you want to buy a 40-amp Level 2 charger, you'll need a circuit breaker that's rated for at least 50 amps.

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Q. Do I need a breaker for the garage?

A. As a general guideline, you'd use 12 AWG copper conductors with a 20-ampere breaker, and 14 AWG copper conductors with a 15-ampere breaker. Since the receptacles are in a garage, they'll have to be GFCI protected. This protection can be provided by a GFCI receptacle or a GFCI breaker.

B. You can still supply receptacles and lights on another circuit for outdoor receptacles and opener. You can even supply additional wall receptacles on the same circuit as lighting. Just gotta have "at least" one receptacle per bay that's on "at least" one 20-amp circuit that's dedicated to wall receptacles.

C. GFCI protection is required for 125-volt to 250-volt receptacles supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to the ground. GFCI receptacles are required in bathrooms, garages, crawl spaces, basements, laundry rooms, and areas where a water source is present.

D. There is several surface wiring methods, including metal conduits, but we chose PVC conduit because it's inexpensive and easy to work with.

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Q. How much does a 30×40 concrete slab cost?

A. The average cost is $4 to $8 per square foot. The median price is about $6 per square foot. Based on these averages, you may pay $4,800 to $9,600 with a median estimate of $7,200.

B. Whether you're pouring concrete countertops or a patio out back, it may be cheaper to pour concrete yourself rather than hiring someone. Whether you'll save much in doing so depends largely on the amount of concrete needed and the amount of time you have to invest in your concrete project.

C. A typical 24x24 garage slab costs between $3,057 and $5,944 with prices ranging from $5.31 to $8.31 per square foot for a 4” reinforced slab of concrete, and $6.83 to $10.32 per square foot for a 6” slab of reinforced concrete.

D. You can expect to pay between $1,600 and $3,200 for a 20×20 slab. The estimates are based on the average cost of $4 to $8 per square foot for a concrete slab. Yet, the costs may vary.

E. The average cost to pour a 30x40 concrete slab that is 6” thick with metal rebar reinforcements is between $8,196 and $12,384. This cost is based on a general-purpose use such as a garage, whereas a foundation for a structure may cost more.

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Q. Is house wrap necessary on a garage?

A. House wrap air infiltration barriers were introduced to the building market in the early 1980s. In the past twenty years as their use increased, the energy impact of these materials has been the subject of testing and modeling research.

B. DuPont Tyvek be exposed before siding. Tyvek Home Wrap, Tyvek Drain Wrap, and Tyvek Stucco Wrap should be covered within 120 days (4 months). Tyvek CommercialWrap should be covered within 270 days (9 months).

C. Generally, house wrap is added to a garage at the same time it is added to a house, during the construction phase. House wrap is not required, but it is still a good idea for its protective and insulating properties.

D. House wrap left exposed longer than its intended UV rating can degrade. A high-quality house wrap with UV inhibitors should have at least a 3-month UV rating to protect it against deterioration due to the sun's UV rays.

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Q. How far down does electrical wire need to be buried?

A. PVC Conduit: one of the cheapest and lightest conduit materials. It is mainly used for over-ground applications as it can withstand different weather conditions and resist moisture and corrosive substances. PVC conduits come with their very own set of elbows, connectors, couplings, and fittings.

B. In general, bury metal conduits at least 6 inches below the soil surface. You may also run them at a depth of 4 inches under a 4-inch concrete slab. Under your driveway, the conduits must be below a depth of 18 inches, and under a public road or alleyway, they must be buried below 24 inches.

C. Low-voltage (no more than 30 volts) wiring must be buried at least 6 inches deep. Buried wiring runs that transition from underground to the above ground must be protected in conduit from the required cover depth or 18 inches to its termination point above ground, or at least 8 feet above grade.

D. Homes must have at least one outdoor receptacle at the front and rear of the house. They must be readily accessible from the ground and positioned no more than 6 1/2 feet above grade (ground level)

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Q. Can you add concrete to an existing foundation?

A. Including rebar in a concrete footing means that you can reduce the risk of the concrete being pushed and pulled apart – cracking – from ground force pressures. Knowing this, it is generally a good idea to use rebar in footings for any structure. However, it is not required in many cases.

B. Pour concrete onto the existing slab until it is around where you want the final level to be. Make sure you have enough concrete to fill the entire area to the depth you desire.

C. The cement within a concrete mix doesn't contain any natural bonding agents – so when fresh concrete is added on top of an existing layer of concrete, the two won't join together. Once cured, the new concrete will simply sit on top as a separate layer. This will not produce a strong, serviceable floor.

D. you can put new concrete over old concrete providing there are no issues such as significant cracks of frost heaves with your existing concrete. A new layer of concrete should be about two inches to ensure an even, strong coverage.

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Q. What size breaker do I need for a Tesla charger?

A. The recommended home charging installation option for Tesla vehicles is a 240-volt NEMA 14-50 outlet. This outlet is commonly used for electric stoves and recreational vehicles. Installed with a 50-amp circuit breaker, this outlet enables a recharge rate of about 37 kilometers per hour.

B. An electric car doesn't require a 220-volt outlet to charge. It will charge with a regular outlet. However, it will charge very slowly. Depending on the model of electric car you have, the manufacturer calls for different voltages to be used.

C. The fastest way to charge your electric car at home is with a level 2 charging station. It can be installed on the side of your house, in a garage or your private parking lot. Also, it needs to be wired directly into your domestic electricity supply and may require a certified electrician to do so.

D. All mass-produced electric vehicles today include a charging unit that you are able to plug into any standard 110-volt outlet. This unit makes it possible to charge your EV from regular household outlets. The downside of EV charging with a 110-volt outlet is that it takes a while.

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Q. Can garage lights and receptacles be on the same circuit?

A. You can still supply receptacles and lights on another circuit for outdoor receptacles and opener. You can even supply additional wall receptacles on the same circuit as lighting. Just gotta have "at least" one receptacle per bay that's on "at least" one 20-amp circuit that's dedicated to wall receptacles.

B. Electricians may position the outlet in an upside-down position so that you can quickly identify the switch-controlled receptacle. Since it stands out visually to most people right away – it provides convenience to the occupants to easily remember which outlet switch is controlled.

C. Technically, you can have as many outlets on a 15-amp circuit breaker as you want. However, a good rule of thumb is 1 outlet per 1.5 amps, up to 80% of the capacity of the circuit breaker. Therefore, we would suggest a maximum of 8 outlets for a 15-amp circuit.

D. After these distances, the circuit will go over the recommended 3% voltage drop. You can run a 12 gauge wire up to 70 feet on a 15-amp circuit. That number drops to 50 feet if you run 12-gauge wire on a 20-amp circuit.

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Q. How thick should a concrete slab be?

A. For a standard garage in most areas, it is not necessary to have a footing. A small, one-bay garage may do just fine on a gravel pad or a concrete slab.

B. An average size two-car garage space usually ranges from 9-14 feet wide by 18-22 feet long (to get sq. ft. to multiply the width by length).

C. On average, carports cost about half as much as garages. Plan on spending anywhere from $3,000 to $10,000 to purchase and install a carport kit. A small, one-car structure falls on the low end of that price range, while two-car structures can reach the higher end.

D. Standard concrete floor slab thickness in residential construction is 4 inches. Five to six inches is recommended if the concrete will receive occasional heavy loads, such as motor homes or garbage trucks.

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Q. What do you need in your garage to charge an electric vehicle?

A. The fastest way to charge your electric car at home is with a level 2 charging station. It can be installed on the side of your house, in a garage or your private parking lot. Also, it needs to be wired directly into your domestic electricity supply and may require a certified electrician to do so.

B. Your garage will need a wall-mounted box, equipped with a cord and plug that can be the source for the required volts of electricity. This type of component is often referred to as: Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE).

C. Electric car owners choose 240-volt (Level 2 charging) since it adds about 25 miles of range every hour. However, EVs can be charged on a standard 120-volt wall outlet. It only adds about four miles every hour, but you don't need any special equipment aside from the charging cord that typically comes with the car.

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Q. How much does it cost to hook up power to a garage?

A. You'll pay $1,000 to $2,500 to run electricity to a detached garage or shed. Bigger structures at a farther distance from your home could increase costs to $5,000+.

B. Many garages contain one or more walls made of concrete or already drywalled. The cable installed on these exposed surfaces has to be protected by conduit. We show EMT (electrical metallic tubing; Photo 7), but you can also use rigid PVC conduit.

C. If you already have a 240-volt circuit available in your home, it will cost between $250 and $700 for a basic installation. It will cost you anywhere from **$400 to $1,700 **if you mount a station and then run 50-amp dedicated wiring. Labor alone can cost $1,000 to $2,000 depending on where you're located.

D. The outlets themselves cost between $7 and $25 and can require a bit more time to add, particularly if a new ground wire needs to be run to the location. Expect to pay $125 to $250 per outlet depending on if you're replacing an existing one or adding a new location.

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Q. How long does it take to charge an electric car on 220V?

A. Electrical panels with a 100-amp capacity were standard for many decades, as this was sufficient for electrical demands years ago. However, a 100-amp panel is generally unable to handle the demands of most modern lifestyles along with an EV charger.

B. Look for at least 24 Amps of charging capability; 40 Amps is best, but more expensive. Charging rate should be at least 7.2 kilowatts, which will handle both Chevy Volts (3.3 or 3.6 kW) and higher-rate cars like Nissan Leaf’s and BMW i3s (6.6 and 7.2 kW, respectively) Make sure it has that NEMA 6-50 plug on it!

C. Depending on the car, you may be able to eke out 30+ hours of idling before you run a tank from full to empty.

D. Home Charging: For 220V/240V outlet home charging, you can expect a 100% charge in 6 hours and 5 minutes. Public Charging: For public charging stations with DC fast chargers, the vehicle can receive an 80% charge in 54 minutes.

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Q. What is the code for outlets in the garage?

A. NEC code requires you to install Romex through a conduit, but inspectors have been known to give people some leeway if the Romex is fastened properly. The goal of a conduit is not just to protect you from the wires but also to protect the wires from you.

C. In each attached garage and each detached garage with electric power, at least one receptacle outlet shall be installed in each vehicle bay and not more than 1.7 m (5 ½ ft) above the floor.

D. Assuming that you want the garage's electricity to power light fixtures and a couple of socket outlets, a 6mm SWA cable should suffice.

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Q. What is the effect of fire on concrete?

A. Concrete structures are more likely to remain standing through fire than are structures of other materials. Unlike wood, concrete does not burn. Unlike steel, it does not soften and bend.

B. Commercially, fireproof concrete is made by mixing a product known as fly ash, a by-product of the production of Portland cement. You can make your fireproof concrete with materials available at home improvement stores.

C. However, concrete is fundamentally a complex material, and its properties can change dramatically when exposed to high temperatures. The principal effects of fire on concrete are loss of compressive strength, and spalling - the forcible ejection of material from the surface of a member.

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Q. How many cars fit in a 30x40 garage?

A. On that basis I would expect that with 1,200 square feet of space, you could be looking at between four and six cars more or less, depending upon the configuration of the space and the access.

B. Three-car garages are usually 32 feet wide by 22 feet deep. Much like 18 x 20 2 car garages, 32 x 22 feet snugly fits 3 cars. Your other, larger options include 36 x 25 feet, 38 x 26 feet, and 40 x 30 feet.

C. You are looking at about a 22 x 48 (1056 sq. ft) for 4 vehicles.

D. 36′ x 81′ x 12′ Steel Garage 6 Car. This premium steel garage offers 2916 square feet of storage space for your cars, trucks, and equipment.

E. About 3.5 cars will fit.

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Q. Are concrete footings necessary?

A. The section on footings in Formwork for Concrete (ACI SP-4) says that when fabricated forms are omitted entirely and concrete is cast directly against the excavation, larger tolerances may apply.

B. Footings are the most important part of foundation construction. The purpose of footings is to support the foundation and prevent settling and is crucial to provide the proper support for the foundation and ultimately the structure.

C. Pour concrete onto the existing slab until it is around where you want the final level to be. Make sure you have enough concrete to fill the entire area to the depth you desire.

D. Including rebar in a concrete footing means that you can reduce the risk of the concrete being pushed and pulled apart – cracking – from ground force pressures. Knowing this, it is generally a good idea to use rebar in footings for any structure. However, it is not required in many cases.

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Q. How many square feet is a 2.5-car garage?

A. A 2.5-car garage is definitely the ideal choice if you're a gearhead or mechanic. If you're wondering how much room you have to work with, a 2.5-car garage should be big enough to suit your needs, usually measuring around 24 feet wide by 26 feet deep (24' x 26').

B. The average cost for a new garage range between $40 and $70 per square foot, according to HomeAdvisor. A single-car attached garage is the least expensive option and averages $10,500 to $27,000. This size includes approximately 240 to 384 square feet.

D. While it can cost up to $11,000 more to build a three-car garage than a two-car one, it can increase the value of your home by nearly $50,000 more and add an extra 200-500 more square feet of space.

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Q. How much does it cost to build a 24x24 garage?

A. Framing is essential to building your 24×24 garage, but it's also costly. Between materials and labor, you can expect to pay an average of $5-$13 per square foot, or more, on framing. The low end of material costs starts at $1-$4, but you'll spend an additional $4-$9 per square foot due to labor.

B. In short, the minimum dimensions for a 2-car garage should be 20'x20′, and to make extra space to get in and out of the car, it is recommended to go with 24'x24′ or larger. If you want to keep your vehicle looking nice and want extra space for other things, a bit wider and deeper will go a long way.

C. A 24×24 garage can cost between $20,000 and $53,000 depending on materials and labor costs. Generally, a garage can be constructed at a rate of $50 per square foot, but contractors vary in their rates. A 24×24 garage is ideal for 2-3 cars, and you may need to spend up to $4,000 on a new garage door.

D. A 24x24 Metal garage, if you do not have to meet strict wind or snow load requirements, you may find that a 24'x24' prefabricated steel garage cost you between roughly $17.22 and $19.44 per square foot. So, for 576 square feet of garage space, you are looking at paying between $9,918.72 and $11,197.44 for materials only.

E. A standard 2-car garage costs between $14,500 and $40,300. Another popular option is to build a 2.5-car garage that provides extra workspace alongside the two cars. These can cost up to $52,000 on average.

F. All The Above.

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Q. Is asphalt cheaper than concrete?

A. In general, if installed properly in a suitable climate and maintained regularly, your concrete driveway should last 30 to 40 years, while an asphalt driveway is generally good for 20 to 30 years.

B. The cost of an asphalt driveway is typically cheaper than concrete, costing $2.00 – $4.00 per square foot. Asphalt prices tend to fluctuate with fluctuations in crude oil prices. In contrast, a concrete driveway costs between $4.00 – $6.00 per square foot for a standard installation.

C. If you intend to park your vehicle on your driveway, you should probably opt for concrete, which handles heavy loads better than asphalt. Moreover, asphalt can soften due to high temperatures.

D. Asphalt is an economical driveway surface choice, although the price may fluctuate due to the material being an oil-based product. A properly installed asphalt driveway will act similar to a concrete surface but at a lower cost.

E. All The Above.

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Q. Can you charge an EV with an extension cord?

A. Yes! You absolutely can charge your electric car with a 120V household socket. Most electric car owners do their charging at home. According to the department of energy, more than 80% of hybrid and electric vehicle drivers depend on their homes to fill up.

B. Not only are they more likely to give you an electric shock, but they can also increase the risk of electrical fires. Therefore, we never recommend using extension cords to charge your EV Charging your EV with an extension cord is dangerous.

C. Am-cat recommends a new service from the power company (typically 200 amps) as well as whole new power panel. On top of that, they will need to run a line capable of 40 to 50 amps to your parking spot and install a 50-amp plug (cheap) or hardwired wall EVSE (” charger”).

D. Electric vehicles are powered by a battery and an EV engine with an electric motor. There are no pistons, valves, or other moving parts that require lubrication, and therefore, EVs don't use the traditional engine oil that would help maintain those parts.

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Q. Can you add footers to a concrete slab?

A. A slab-on-grade foundation usually consists of a thin layer of concrete across the entire area of the foundation with thickened footings at the edges or below load-bearing walls in the middle of the building.

B. In most cases, you can incorporate footings into your foundation by digging a 12–18-inch-deep trench at the edge of your foundation and reinforcing it with rebar. Pour concrete into this trench at the same time you pour your slab to create a strong foundation.

C. The section on footings in Formwork for Concrete (ACI SP-4) says that when fabricated forms are omitted entirely and concrete is cast directly against the excavation, larger tolerances may apply.

D. The footing is what's actually in contact with the ground, while the foundation is the structure that transfers the load to the earth.

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Q. What is the code for electrical outlets in the garage?

A. Electrical receptacle outlets on branch circuits of 30 amperes or less and communication system receptacles shall be located no more than 48 inches (1219 mm) measured from the top of the receptacle outlet box nor less than 15 inches (381 mm) measured from the bottom of the receptacle outlet box.

B. In each attached garage and each detached garage with electric power, at least one receptacle outlet shall be installed in each vehicle bay and not more than 1.7 m (5 ½ ft) above the floor.

C. Always comply with the 80% circuit and breaker load rule, allowing a maximum load of 1.5 amps per receptacle. Remember that your circuit, wire sizes, and outlets must be compatible to avoid overheating and electrical hazards.

D. GFCI protection is required for 125-volt to 250-volt receptacles supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to the ground. GFCI receptacles are required in bathrooms, garages, crawl spaces, basements, laundry rooms, and areas where a water source is present.

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Q. How long do garage door motors last?

A. Here are some warning signs you should watch out for to tell if you need a garage door opener motor replacement, the Garage Door Opener Vibrates, the Garage Door Opener Makes Excessive Noise, and the Garage Door Moves Sluggishly, the Garage Door Can't Open.

B. One cycle equals opening and closing the door once. Torsion springs, located above the door, last between 15,000 and 20,000 cycles, and tension springs, located either above the track or beside the door, last between 5,000 to 10,000 cycles. So, the more you use the door, the more wear and tear the springs will show.

C. Here’s how to Release and Reset the Emergency Cord on a Garage Door, door Must Be in Down Position, pull the Emergency Release Cord, manually Move the Garage Door and Return to Down Position, and pull the Emergency Release Cord Toward the Door, re-connect the Trolley to the Opener Carriage.

D. Most garage door openers last an average of around 10 to 15 years. Whether your specific garage door opener lifespan is longer or shorter than this will depend on several factors, including frequency of use and regular garage door maintenance.

E. All The Above.

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Q. How much does garage installation cost?

B. On average, homeowners spend between $470 and $8,000 to install a garage door. The national average ranges between $500 and $2,000,

C. The average 2-car garage costs between $19,600 and $28,200 to build with most homeowners spending about $20,000. The final price depends on the size, and if it's attached or detached. The most common 2-car garage size is 20' x 20' which is 400 square feet.

D. A one-car garage ranges from $10,500 to $27,000 and a 2-car garage is between $14,500 and $40,300. HomeGuide.com says the national average to build a garage is $35 to $60 per square foot. The cost to build a one-car garage is between $7,500 and $14,200, and a two-car garage is between $19,600 and $28,200.

E. All The Above.

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Q. Is adding a garage worth it?

A. depending on the value of the home and location. Typically for a suburban home, the value of the garage is going to be approximately $4,000 to $5,000 per bay. In general, a “functionally adequate” garage in a typical market might add $5,000 to $25,000 worth of value.

B. In practically any case, building a garage can and will increase the resale value of your home. The average attached garage will cost around $27,000 to build. Most homeowners see about an 81% return on their investment or an increase in the resale value of $21,000.

C. For many homebuyers, a garage is a necessity. If you own a vehicle, a garage offers safety, convenience, and extra storage space. Even if you don't need a garage, you could decide to sell your home in the future and have a hard time if it doesn't have one.

D. Realtors estimate that upgrading a garage door can increase the perceived selling price of a home by up to 4%, depending on the style. The average U.S. home price estimated at $206,300 in 2017 can mean an incremental increase of $8,000 to $14,000, just because of the garage door.

E. All The Above.

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Q. Can I replace a garage door opener unit without changing the rails?

A. Generally, no, you cannot reuse the rail, they are not all the same dimensions. There is no one standard size of profile, even within the same manufacturer, they change over the years.

B. Although some companies do make adjustable rails, they rarely work universally. In other words, there's a good chance that your next garage door replacement will have to be a complete replacement, parts, and all. ... When the rails go wrong, it will affect your door's performance.

C. Garage door transmitters are not interchangeable between different manufacturers and the brand garage door opener on the ceiling does not necessarily mean that your radio controls are of the same make. Then, check the model number and the frequency number of one of your existing transmitters.

D. Generally, when replacing a garage door you cannot reuse the rail, they are not all the same dimensions. There is no one standard size of profile, even within the same manufacturer, they change over the years.

E. All The Above.

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Q. Is a detached garage better than an attached one?

A. You might prefer a detached garage if your lot size is long and narrow, as this structure can be built behind the home to take advantage of the space. These garages are also considered safer, as carbon monoxide fumes won't be seeping into your home through the garage entry door.

B. The overall national average is that you recoup about 65% of the value of your detached garage during resale. That percentage serves as a solid baseline since there are so many different configurations and sizes available in detached garages.

C. The garages were nearly always detached from the rest of the home, for the risk of gasoline explosion (gas was stored in the garage, as gas stations were yet to be invented). By the 1920s, most of these detached garages were built of brick, concrete blocks, clay tiles, or pressed tin, rather than wood.

D. A detached garage can make your home more attractive to a greater number of buyers. Appraisers will take this into account and factor your garage into your home's current market value. For the vast majority of homes, adding a detached garage will add more value to the home than what the garage costs to build.

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Q. How many yards of concrete do I need for a 30x40 slab?

A. Here how do I calculate how much concrete I need for a slab, measure the area in feet, multiply the length by width, and then by thickness, divide the resulting number by 27 to find cubic yards? B. 30 ft x 40 ft x 6" Concrete Summary, 2.222 cu. yds.

B. 30 ft x 40 ft x 6" Concrete Summary, 2.222 cu. yds.

C. For example, for a concrete slab that is 24' X 24' X 4”, simply enter 4 in the Thickness/Depth field, 24 in the Width field, and 24 in the Length field. Click “Calculate”. Your answer should be 7.11 yards.

D. The amount you will need for a 10 x 10 slab is 1.3 cubic yards, we always add an extra 10% to allow for any slab depth variations or spills that may occur.

E. All The Above.

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Q. Can you reuse a foundation after a fire?

A. 2015 study by the National Association of Homebuilders found the average construction cost per square foot to be $105. By that metric, rebuilding the average home would cost about $280,000.

B. Concrete structures are more likely to remain standing through fire than are structures of other materials. Unlike wood, concrete does not burn. Unlike steel, it does not soften and bend.

D. Commercially, fireproof concrete is made by mixing a product known as fly ash, a by-product of the production of Portland cement. You can make your fireproof concrete with materials available at home improvement stores.

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Q. How long does it take to repair a Garage fire damage?

A. Costs can average anywhere from $3,000 to $5,000 to recover and restore your home after a small fire. Larger fires that destroy your roof or kitchen can cost as high as $50,000 and up.

B. The longer a fire burns, the more damage it will cause to your home. If it causes enough damage, then your home might be left in an unstable condition, making it vulnerable to further harm. If your garage is unstable following a fire, it will need to be rebuilt.

C. Your homeowner's insurance will likely cover items destroyed in a Garage fire. If you have a replacement cost policy, you'll receive the actual cash value of your damaged items at the time of settlement [Replacement Cost – Depreciation = Actual Cash Value].

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Q. How much does it cost to have a garage door motor installed?

A. Any type of garage door can be motorized, the installation of a garage door motor may cost between $200 and $650.

B. Garage-door openers themselves typically cost between $120 and $300, depending on how sophisticated the device is. Labor costs can vary depending on where you live. The average cost to install a garage door opener is about $250 to $650.

C. Most garage door openers last an average of around 10 to 15 years. Whether your specific garage door opener lifespan is longer or shorter than this will depend on several factors, including frequency of use and regular garage door maintenance.

D. Garage door opener repair can also be more expensive than replacement. So if it'll cost you less anyway, it's best to purchase a new garage door opener that will also be of higher quality and work better.

E. All The Above.

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